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Latest update: 31 January 2025
Stray dogs and poorly maintained buildings might not sound like the best sales pitch for visiting Tbilisi. But they’re an integral part of Georgia’s capital and make the city special to me. Let me share my experience.
The vibe of Tbilisi
This article won’t cover what to do in Georgia’s capital – for that, check out my article about Tbilisi attractions. Instead, I want to immerse you in Tbilisi’s atmosphere. It’s a feeling you can’t capture in tourist spots, but one you experience walking the streets, chatting with locals, and petting stray dogs. My advice: spend a few days here to check off the highlights, but mainly wander around and discover the extraordinary in everyday life.
The stray dogs of Tbilisi
Tbilisi’s strays actually have it pretty good. Georgians provide them medical care, food, and water – so much that these dogs often become overweight and turn their noses up at plain kibble and dry bread. They prefer good meat or a Megrulian khachapuri (think Georgian cheese pizza – more on Georgian dishes in another article). Can’t blame them! In the outskirts and beyond Tbilisi, it’s different though. There you’ll see some skinny ones too.
I carry dog food from the supermarket in my bag for when I meet a sweetheart or one of those skinny pups. That’s how you make friends in Georgia!
Many dogs have ear tags showing they’re spayed/neutered and vaccinated. What’s striking is how friendly they all are – every single one. I’d love to take them home, but there’s no need – Tbilisi’s residents take good care of them. “We’re hard on the outside but soft on the inside,” a local man tells me.
The strays often join tour groups. During my Sololaki tour, our all-women group had a dog escort from minute one. Some stuck around the whole time, others dropped off, and new ones tried joining. Sometimes they were welcome, sometimes not. The strays also chase cars, running dangerously close to the wheels. They walk through traffic or find comfy spots to lie down right in the middle of the road. This can’t end well, right?
And sure enough, it doesn’t. One evening, in a taxi back to my apartment, we feel a bump. My jaw drops, and the driver goes silent. Was that…? Yes, it was a dog. His first roadkill, the driver whispers. It’s a quiet ride home after what had been a fun night out.
What about stray cats? Yes, they exist, but I haven’t seen many. Maybe they’re shyer than the dogs, or there are just more dogs. For the cat people out there, here are some Tbilisi street cats:
Extreme traffic
A Bolt ride (like Uber) costs practically nothing in Tbilisi – just a few dollars. There are tons of taxis, and with such low prices, I happily use them. But the traffic is intense. Turn signals, yielding – the average driver here has never heard of them. Even crosswalks aren’t safe.
On major roads, you can’t cross at street level—you have to go underground. At various points, stairs lead down to tunnels. These crossing tunnels could use a makeover, though. Some extra light and paint wouldn’t hurt—they’re pretty sketchy. Sometimes, finding these crossings is like a treasure hunt.
While wandering through outer neighborhoods, I couldn’t find a crossing spot. Slightly tired, I asked an older gas station attendant how to get across. He didn’t speak English but understood and gestured toward the road – one with more lanes than I could count. Seeing my hesitation, he walked with me, holding up his hand to stop traffic. I breathed a sigh of relief on the other side, while he shuffled back across at a snail’s pace.
It’s not just pedestrians who need to watch out. Almost every car has dents or scratches, and unexpected moves are common in heavy traffic. Several taxi drivers cross themselves before we start driving. Rightly so.
Decaying and abandoned
Walking the streets, you can’t help but notice the poor building maintenance. Not surprisingly, given the Soviet era isn’t far behind Georgia. Peeling paint, rotting wood, crumbling walls.
It shows different priorities. And lack of money, of course. But people try to keep things neat. The florist sweeps the sidewalk, vegetables are nicely displayed, and wall carpets hang perfectly.
It’s such a shame because many buildings have beautiful details, balconies, and potentially gorgeous entrances. Apartments share halls and stairs, but no one owns the entire building, so no one takes responsibility for maintenance. Meanwhile, construction continues. New glass buildings sometimes look oddly out of place next to original structures.
Combine the decay with graffiti, anti-Russian messages, and abandoned cars, and you might feel unsafe. But the opposite is true. Tbilisi feels very safe. And amid all the gray, beautiful things emerge. Artists open studios, and clever entrepreneurs turn an old textile factory into a hip hostel… I understand why people call Tbilisi the new Berlin, especially since the nightlife is supposedly amazing. I wouldn’t know—I’m exhausted from sightseeing and go to bed early every evening.
Love for Tbilisi
Because I stayed longer in Tbilisi, it really felt like my city for a little while. A city both modernizing (with popular bars and attractions like the Bridge of Peace) while holding onto the old. That’s what makes the atmosphere so special. I definitely want to come back!
More Georgia travel inspiration?
Useful links for your Georgia trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook, and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare prices and insurance coverage, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com. In Georgia, a private transfer or tour with a private driver is often very affordable. Use GoTrip for this.
- Reading tip. If you like reading, I recommend buying this fantastic book: The Eighth Life (for Brilka). It is about generations of women living and suffering in Georgia. More than 1000 pages, so get cozy and comfortable!
- Travel guides. I like paper travel guides to browse through, for sale at Amazon, among others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train and Bus Travel by train or bus through Georgia with Busbud, 12Go, or Omio.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Start your search at Expedia or CheapOair.
- Yoga retreat. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Georgia.
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links. If you buy something through these links, I might receive a small commission.
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