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Latest update: 8 September 2025
Petra without masses of tourists? It sounds almost too good to be true, but it’s currently quieter than ever at Jordan’s most famous attraction. That means you have the Treasury almost to yourself, and there’s much more space to enjoy the world wonder. With the right approach, you can fully enjoy Petra, and taking the backdoor route via Little Petra is a smart move.
What is Petra actually?
Petra is an ancient city carved out of the rocks about 2000 years ago by the Nabataeans. These traders were masters at working sandstone and created an impressive city in the middle of Jordan’s desert. The Treasury (Al-Khazneh) is the most famous building, but Petra consists of much more: tombs, temples, an amphitheater, and hundreds of other structures that are all carved out of the almost pink rock walls. In 1985, Petra was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in 2007, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. It’s truly breathtaking to see how detailed and refined these structures are. Especially when you think they were made by hand thousands of years ago.
Petra versus Wadi Musa
Maybe you already know this, but I didn’t, so I’ll tell you anyway. When you go to Petra, you sleep in Wadi Musa. Petra is the attraction, Wadi Musa is the town around it where all the hotels, restaurants, and facilities are.
Why you should plan two days for Petra, Jordan
Petra in one day? Certainly possible, but do yourself a favor and plan two days for it. Then you can do the backdoor route via Little Petra, relaxed on the first day, and go in early via the main entrance on the second day for that perfect Treasury photo without masses of people—if you get up early enough anyway.
Jordan Pass: ‘free’ to Petra
You can best visit Petra with a Jordan Pass. With this pass, Petra is free, saving quite a bit of money. You have three options:
- Jordan Wanderer (70 JD): 1 day Petra + free access to more than 40 attractions in Jordan + free visa if you stay at least 2 nights
- Jordan Explorer (75 JOD): 2 consecutive days Petra + free access to more than 40 attractions + free visa with at least 2 nights
- Jordan Expert (80 JOD): 3 consecutive days Petra + free access to more than 40 attractions + free visa with at least 2 nights
Just for comparison: if you buy a ticket at Petra, you pay 50 JOD ($35) for a day, 55 JOD ($38) for two days, and 60 JOD ($42) for three days.
For this two-day plan, I recommend the Jordan Explorer. For an extra 5 JOD ($3.50), you have an extra day in Petra. This is a good deal even if you only go for an hour on day two.
The Back Door route: why Little Petra is your best starting point (day 1)
On day 1, you start your Petra adventure at Little Petra. That’s not only a beautiful attraction but also your gateway to the famous Monastery via the back door. We leave after lunch because in the afternoon, the light is best for the Monastery.
You do have to go to the visitors center first to pick up your ticket with your Jordan Pass. You take a taxi or shuttle bus from the Petra visitors center to Little Petra for 10 dinar ($7). The free shuttles run every half hour, but we just miss it and find waiting half an hour too long. The pickup point for the shuttle is behind the museum (approximately here). Of course, taxi drivers who claim that the shuttle just left are also waiting here. Always check what they say with the shuttle employee.
Transport to the Back Door Trail
Upon arrival in Little Petra, another group of guides and drivers shouts for our attention. It’s bloody annoying and especially very confusing. You have two options here: a government pickup truck or a private pickup truck. Both cost 5 JOD ($3.50) (in 2025), but the difference is that the government trucks drive further. The private transport can’t go past the entrance gate, and then you have to walk quite a bit more.
The disadvantage of the government pickup is that it only leaves when it’s completely full. So you might have to wait longer. We certainly do, because the ticket sellers are totally uninterested and extremely slow.
Various blogs say you can easily walk from Little Petra to the Backdoor Trail. And that’s true. But if you can spare the money, I would go with the pickup truck. The walk is not exciting: first, it is a stretch of road, and then, it is a stretch of boring trail. Plus, it’s hot and you have more walking to do. But it’s up to you, of course.
Check out Little Petra
But before you go, first check out Little Petra! It’s worth taking a look around. It’s a mini version of the real thing. Little Petra (or Siq al Barid) is a smaller archaeological site about 5 miles (8 km) from Big Petra. It was built by the same Nabataeans as a storage room and inn for caravans that traveled along the incense route. You also find chambers carved out of the rocks here, but much smaller. It’s also lovely and quiet; you can see everything in about half an hour.
Hike the Back Door Trail Petra
Once dropped at the starting point of the Back Door Trail, there are, of course, more guys who want to sell you something. This time, they have donkeys on offer to take you to the Monastery. None of our group takes up the offer.
The hike to the Monastery is quite doable. Count on about 50 minutes. The beginning goes quite uphill and later you walk via steps. You constantly have views of the rock formations. An inhospitable area. It is a bit of a struggle because of the heat. So bring enough water and otherwise you can buy something to drink at one of the stalls along the way. We think we took a wrong turn somewhere near the end, but fortunately we end up in the right place.
Arrival at the Monastery: why this route is so smart
And then you’re there. It’s the Monastery (Ad Deir) in all its glory. This is immediately one of the most beautiful places in Petra, in my opinion. It’s so grand and special. The name refers to the crosses that were placed in the walls, but it’s unclear what this building was used for. There are no burial chambers, for example. One theory is that it was a space for consultation and rituals.
In front of the Monastery, there’s a large terrace where you can order a
snack and a drink. We gratefully make use of this and enjoy the view of the Monastery and the overheated faces of people who didn’t take the Back Door route…
Because this is exactly why the Back Door Trail is such a good invention: to reach the Monastery from the main entrance, you must climb a staircase with 800 steps. You read that right, 800. You walk about 45 minutes to an hour on this, and it’s tough. Very tough. Obviously, the Monastery is a good reward, but why would you take all that effort if you don’t have to? We only have to walk back. That feels like a win, love it! People offer donkey rides to cover the distance, but don’t ride them please. It’s not good for the donkeys at all.
The walk down runs along many stalls. At the bottom, you find The Basin. It’s not exactly atmospheric, but we eat a fine shawarma sandwich here.
From here, we start the walk to the main entrance. From the Monastery, we’re still about 2.5 to 3 hours on the road. We certainly don’t look at Petra’s attractions, but we do see a few. Of course, we stop at the Treasury for a moment. Around half past four in the afternoon, it’s surprisingly quiet there.
Timing is everything at the Treasury (day 2)
On day two, you go in via the main entrance. Timing is everything for that perfect Treasury (Al-Khazneh) photo. We’re there at 8:10 in the morning, but then there’s already a bit of the top in the sun, so we should have come even earlier for the perfect photo. Petra usually opens at 6 a.m. – check this on site for safety.
If you’re at the Treasury around 10:30, the sun is almost completely on it. The day before, there was no sun around half past four, so this is also a good time for the photo.
In other words, come very early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Early is not only better for the photo but also quieter. Around 10 o’clock, the first tour groups start arriving.
And then we continue our way along the Main Trail, but we turn around before the stairs to the Monastery. In my opinion, the Monastery, the Treasury, and the Siq are Petra’s most beautiful attractions. The Siq is the long rock passage that takes you from the entrance to the Treasury. You actually walk through a canyon with high, sloping rock walls. Towards the end, it gets narrower and the Treasury looms before you. Magic!
There are also viewpoints set up with a nice rug, especially for the photos. The viewpoints are difficult to reach, but you can go there independently. Of course, guides offer themselves plenty. We looked at the photos online and decided that the viewpoints don’t add much to our experience.
The map you get at the visitor center indicates all important attractions and a small description. It’s handy to keep it with you for some background information. The Lonely Planet of Jordan describes all burial chambers, temples, and more in great detail. Taking it with you if you plan to discover Petra yourself is handy. There’s also a museum (just before the entrance). But after hours of strolling, I find it extremely difficult to pay attention to this. Maybe next time.
Practical info for your visit to Petra
- Water and shade. From the entrance, you walk between the high rock walls towards the Treasury. The shade is nice and cool there. In the open places, the sun is really intense, so make sure you regularly seek shade and drink enough water.
- Food and drinks. There are enough places in Petra where you can eat or drink something. Just count on this being pricey. For example, you pay 4 JOD ($2.80) for a fresh juice. Fine to have a drink, but you’d better have an extensive lunch in Wadi Musa.
- Toilets. There are free toilets in various places in Petra, but few. At the entrance, you get a map to easily locate them.
- Guides. I find the guide services in Petra very expensive. Or at least: if you’re traveling with two people. A guide costs 50 JOD ($35), regardless of group size. So if you travel with more people or can join a group, then it’s affordable. You can find the current prices for guides and other services here.
- Parking. There is enough parking space around the main entrance. You can park your car, for example, here or here.
- Shoes. Wear good shoes. The walking paths are well-maintained, but if you want to see attractions up close, you sometimes have to climb a bit. Your step counter goes crazy in Petra, so comfortable shoes are really nice.
- Check the weather. Floods can occur in Petra. A few days before my visit, this even happened! Just look at the footage.
- Passport. Please bring your passport because you might be asked for it. We didn’t have it with us (stupid!), but we still got in because of some confusion about our tickets. That was our salvation!
Don’t do animal rides in Petra
We see two camels lying at the Treasury; strangely enough, people regularly get on them for a photo. Don’t do it, it’s sad. The animals stand for hours in the blazing sun without food or drink. Also, skip the donkey or horse rides that are offered to you. Because of animal suffering, but also because men always claim it’s included in the ticket. That’s a trick. Once the ride is over, they demand a big tip from you, and if you don’t pay, you’ll get into an argument.
Tourism in Petra: today’s challenges
Petra is currently almost deserted, but that has a reason. Tourism in Jordan has taken a big hit due to regional conflicts. According to Reuters, Jordan is struggling with a significant drop in visitors due to the war in Gaza. Jordan News reports that despite a 9% increase in foreign tourists to Petra, the numbers are still far below the pre-COVID level.
And I can confirm these figures. It’s very quiet in Petra in May 2025. Very nice for us as visitors of course, because I have all the space and time. But I also understand that people here are having a very hard time now. And you notice that too. Some vendors are sometimes too persistent because they earn less. They constantly ask you where you come from, hoping to start a conversation and sell you something. It’s annoying, and I don’t find them friendly at all either. With that attitude, I don’t believe you’ll sell anything anyway?!
Staying overnight in Wadi Musa: Nomads Hotel
I end up at Nomads Hotel for the overnight stay in Wadi Musa. Very neat, and it smells nice and clean. The receptionists are friendly and there’s a beautiful rooftop bar. It’s too bad that not everything from the drinks menu can be ordered, but it’s nicely decorated. Only it’s really bloody hot there during the day. For sunset, it’s a good spot. The breakfast is simple, but fine for the start of a Petra day, and we decide to use the buffet here one evening too. That’s surprisingly tasty!
You can park at Nomads Hotel in front of the door. The first day we walk to Petra, but returning, the hill is long and exhausting. We get a taxi back for 2 dinar ($1.40). The next day we go by car to the free parking lot at Petra.
Compare prices at Booking, Hostelworld, and Agoda.
Restaurants in Wadi Musa
For a luxury dinner, you go to Jordan Heritage Restaurant. It is a restaurant with dishes from all over Jordan. It is well cared for, but only one other table is deserted on the weekend. That says something about how quiet it currently is. You can sit inside, but if the weather allows, I would choose the terrace because then you can see the lights of the whole city beautifully.
For a more relaxed atmosphere, you can go to Old Street Cafe & Restaurant, which is on a side street of the main tourist street. It serves local dishes with blues music in the background. It’s a great chill spot after a day of discovering Petra.
More Jordan inspiration
Useful links for your Jordan trip
- Accommodation. Booking.com is always useful, but be sure to compare prices. For example, through Trivago and Trip. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. “Free” walking tours book with Freetour or GuruWalk.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Compare your options at Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Amazon.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? You could check out Expedia or CheapOair.
- Flights. Compare all your options! At least check Expedia, Kiwi and Trip.
- Yoga retreat. Or: go for a yoga retreat in Jordan.
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