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Latest update: 1 December 2022
What must-sees in Brno, Czech Republic, are not to be missed? The largest city after Prague is nice and compact and therefore perfect for a city trip. Brno has beautiful Gothic buildings: majestic and stately. And more than enough sights to keep you entertained for longer than a weekend. Czech my Brno tips!
Is Brno worth visiting? Yes!
Brno is a charming city: it’s a student town and very lively. There are many restaurants, bars, and coffee cafes. And it has a lot of sights that are not necessarily super touristy. Brno is not nearly as famous as Prague, so it’s less crowded.
There always seems to be a lot happening in town: from (Christmas) markets to music and jazz festivals, museum night, a music marathon, and a Shakespeare festival.
Almost everything in Brno is within walking distance, which I like. But if you want or need to travel by public transport: don’t worry, it’s pretty straightforward. The travel advice on Google Maps is correct 99% of the time, and you do not have to buy a ticket in advance. Just hold your debit card against the yellow devices in the tram or bus and if you get off within 15 minutes, do that again. Otherwise, just leave it. Everything over 15 minutes is the same price. At the end of the day, the system calculates how much you have traveled and debits it from your account. It couldn’t be easier, and it’s dirt cheap.
Things to do in Brno – Sights & Attractions
Brno is a friendly, compact city that allows you to see many sights in one day. I always prefer to start a visit to a town with a walking tour through the city. This gives me a sense of direction, and I immediately pick up good tips for sights, restaurants, and bars. You can book a walking tour at GetYourGuide, for example. You’ll probably come across a few of my tips during a city walk too!
Tip 1 – Náměstí Svobody square with astronomical clock
Náměstí Svobody Square (Freedom Square) is in the center of Brno, in the shopping area. It is a beautiful and lively square: many outdoor seats, some shop shops, and the trams cross right through it. Try to look past McDonald’s and Starbucks, and you will see beautiful classical buildings, a large monument with golden details, and a clock.
Yes, that black thing, that’s a clock. In the shape of a bullet or phallus – it just depends on who you ask. Reading the time on the statue is quite tricky. At the very top is a small window that shows a number. The clock contains a mechanism that releases a marble daily at 11 a.m. You can try to catch it and take it with you as a souvenir. Rain or shine: be on time. The clock contains four holes, and the marble will come out of one. Chances are that more people will show up, so if you really want a marble…
Why at 11 o’clock? Well, in 1645, Brno was engaged in a war with the Swedish army. The Swedish general promised to withdraw if the city had not fallen by noon. And so the people of Brno put their clocks forward an hour. So that 11 o’clock became 12 o’clock, and that’s how history got made. Bye bye Sweden!
Tip 2 – Green in Brno: city parks
Brno has a handful of green parks. Not suitable to stroll through for hours, but nice for a quick escape from the city. Take a walk around the castle, or…
Try the Koliště park right on the edge of the center. It has some statues and monuments, such as a light fountain and the Pomník Rudoarmějce statue in memory of the liberation of Brno in 1945 by the Soviet army.
The Tyršův sad city park is relatively small and popular with children. There is plenty of hide-and-seek and football, it is perfect for that as it has a large lawn. In addition, there are benches where you can rest and read a book in the sun.
Tip 3 – View the horse statue from different perspectives
A bronze statue of a man on a horse may not sound so special. And in most cases, you are right. But in Brno, you SHOULD take a look. The statue is about 8 meters high, and you can stand under the horse’s long legs for a … unique view. Once you find the right angle, you will understand why people giggle.
I participate in a walking tour in Brno, and we also make a stop here. Strangely, the guide doesn’t say anything about the perspective. But online, you read about this deliberate ‘mistake’ everywhere.
And just FYI: it is a statue of the Duke of Luxembourg, who was also Moravia’s Marquis (a title of nobility). Moravia was an area within the Roman Empire, and Brno had been its capital since 1641. The region is now part of the Czech Republic.
Tip 4 – Walk over or under the vegetable market Zelný trh
On the Zelný trh, there is a market every day except Sunday. A vegetable market. A tradition that has existed since the twelfth century. It is not a tourist market but for the local population. Not that you’re not welcome, quite the contrary. But count on walking among the local ladies who come to do their shopping. There are mainly fruit and vegetables, some flowers and plants, and some stalls with, for example, coffee and ice creams. In addition, you will find several cafes with outdoor seats around the vegetable market.
In the middle of the market is a huge baroque statue. The little angel is supposed to represent Mozart as a child. Mozart visited Brno with his family in 1767, when he was 11. His family fled Vienna because of a chickenpox epidemic. With his sister, he gave a piano concerto in the theater on this square (Reduta theatre).
There are cellars under the vegetable market. People used to store things like vegetables and wine under the market. The cellars are all connected, and today you can visit them: the labyrinth under the vegetable market. 212 steps underground, more than 1000 meters long. You can only explore with a guide, so book in advance and check the language. There are a few tours in English, but you can also go with the Czech ones and use an audio guide.
Tip 5 – Climb the St Peter and Paul Cathedral in Brno
The Brno Cathedral is quite imposing. Because it’s enclosed by buildings, it is difficult to get a good picture of it. But it does fit on the coins of the Czech Republic! Check out the 10-crown coin. You take the short stairs on the church’s hill from the city. On both sides of the stairs is a statue: one of Peter (Peter) and one of Paul (Paul).
The church is free to visit. So be sure to admire the stained glass and decorations. On the right side of the church is a second entrance. It provides access to the small museum of the church for 40 Czech crowns, and you can go all the way up into the bell tower. However, with my fear of heights, that is not the best idea. It’s pretty high up, and the balcony is very narrow. My fear of heights trumps the desire to enjoy the view. You can cross the bell tower inside and check out the view on the other side.
You actually walk under the clocks. If you time it right, you can hear them close by: at 11 o’clock (because of the battle with the Swedes) and at 12 o’clock. Although you’ll probably end up with hearing damage if you’re up there at that time.
Tip 6 – Discover the legend of the crocodile and the wheel
A crocodile or a dragon? Legend has it that in the archway of the Old Town Hall, you’ll find the carcass of a real dragon – one that looks very much like a crocodile. Long ago, this dragon lived in the river and ate children, livestock, and pets. The people had no idea how to get rid of the beast. Until someone thought they would use a fake lamb (or a calf, the stories differ) as bait. The faux lamb was filled with limestone and placed at the river’s edge. The crocodile ate the meal, drank water, and so the lamb exploded in its belly. Problem solved. The dragon of Brno has subsequently become a symbol of the city. A radio station is named after it, a softball team, and there are cookies with the crocodile-like dragon on them. The crocodile you see at the Old Town Hall was probably once gifted by a high-ranking visitor.
In the same passage as the crocodile hangs a wheel on the wall. This wheel from Brno recalls Georg Birck from Lednice, who bet he could cut down a tree in 1 day, make a wheel out of it, and roll it to Brno. Just for the sake of clarity: Lednice and Brno are more than 50 kilometers apart. Nowadays, an annual competition is held where people roll wheels from Lednice to Brno.
Want more background stories about Brno? Then I advise you to book a walking tour, like this one.
Tip 7 – Climb the former town hall
The Old Town Hall of Brno now has purely ceremonial, cultural, and touristic value. The last meeting of municipal officials was held here in 1935. The Old Town Hall is the oldest building in Brno: the oldest stones were laid in 1240, but more have been added since then. Today it houses a tourist information point, a gallery, a small museum, and a courtyard with a café. And, of course, the crocodile and the wheel of Brno!
The Old Town Hall tower is 63 meters high, and you can climb it. You will find information boards about the construction and the maker on your way up. At the top, you can walk around to have a beautiful view of the entire city.
Don’t forget to look at the tower’s decoration at the entrance. The middle of the five ornate points is somewhat skewed. This is because the creator, Anton Pilgram, was not satisfied with how much money he received for his work, and so he decided to make one point crooked – payback time!
Fun fact. If there is an Old Town Hall, there is also a New Town Hall. Queen Elizabeth visited Brno in 1996 and stood on one of the balconies of the New Town Hall. She refused to use the same balcony as Adolf Hitler in 1939 (see this old photo).
Tip 8 – Admire the Špilberk castle
On top of a small mountain, just outside the city center, you will find the Špilberk castle. Expect a climb of at least ten to fifteen minutes – depending on how many stops you make. Around the castle is a city park where people come for a walk and chill out. And of course to enjoy the view and the castle. It is not a typical fairytale castle, but more robust with right angles and a high moat.
The castle was formerly used as a royal castle, later as a prison, and during the Second World War, it was owned by the Nazis. Such rich history. You can walk around the castle for free, but if you want to go inside, you have to pay. There are several ways to explore the castle, so check them out on the website of the Špilberk castle.
Tip 9 – Architectural masterpiece Villa Stiassni
If you travel with tram 1 all the way to the terminus, you are close to Villa Stiassni. This was the home of the Jewish Stiassni family. If you are interested in architecture, this is an excellent spot to visit in Brno. I don’t have a good eye for architecture and enjoy walking through it, but I’m more impressed by the garden than the house. The villa looks quite blocky on the outside, with no splendor. It is also relatively simple inside, but with some nice details.
The family did not live in the house that long because they fled from the Nazis, who even housed a casino in it at one point. After that, the villa was used for important state events.
Tours of the villa are offered by appointment only. It’s not accessible otherwise. You will learn about the house’s history and the family. For example, father Alfred kept a record of what he wore every time he met someone so that he would never face people in the same clothes twice. Or learn about the Stiassni’s daughter, who was not Alfred’s, but of a close friend because Alfred could not have children. The daughter only found out after the death of her parents.
Café Ernst is located in the villa and serves a delicious lunch. Because the weather was nice, we could take a well-filled picnic basket into the garden after the tour.
Tip 10 – Art, design, and fashion museum Uměleckoprůmyslové
Uměleckoprůmyslové, try pronouncing that! The staff prepares for an event during my visit, and the museum cafe is closed. Too bad because it’s supposed to have a robot that makes coffee. Luckily, there is more to see in the museum. Mostly modern art and hundreds, if not thousands, of porcelain figurines.
I also get to know Jeri Pelcl, a Czech artist. An entire floor is dedicated to him, and his work is divided by type of material: a room full of wooden objects, one with plastic, one with fabric, and so on. It is supplemented with quotes from Pelcl about the material, and there is material on display that you can touch. Well, must touch actually: the museum lady is chasing me and urges me to feel and touch everything. She means well, so I politely obey.
Tip 11 – The mummies of the Capuchin Crypt
The mummified bodies of the monks are hidden under the Capuchin Church. Well, hidden… You can visit and view them. Capuchins are a Christian order that wanted to live as simply as possible. The deceased members of the order were laid to rest in this crypt – a practice that went on for some three hundred years. Every time a monk died, the same coffin was used. Then he was placed in the crypt with a few stones as a pillow.
The bodies were not meant to be mummified, but the air circulation and the subsoil mummified them anyway. The bodies seem calm and at ease, but I still find it a bit of a sinister visit. I think the ossuary is less intense to visit as it still has something artificial and artsy about it. In the crypt, I get the creeps at the sight of the bodies and quickly leave to get some fresh air.
Tip 12 – Modern art in the Pražákův palace
In the Pražákův palác, you can admire a few free exhibitions. Finding the right door on every floor takes a while, but eventually, I end up at the exhibitions. Unfortunately, they don’t appeal to me: I feel like this art is too complicated for me. So I take a quick walk around, appreciate the project where an artist mailed many t-shirts on behalf of others through the city, and then quickly move on to Brno’s other sights.
Tip 13 – Go underground in the 10-Z Bunker
The 10-Z Bunker is a special place to visit. The bunker was used by the Nazis against Allied bombing raids during World War II. And then it became a wine shop! However, the communists closed the shop and converted it into a shelter from nuclear attacks where some 500 people could hide for three days. The current owners leased it from the government in 2014 for the symbolic sum of one Czech crown. And now you can take a tour and even spend the night. If you dare. It is not exactly a pleasant place, so book one night via Booking and then find a nice hotel or cozy apartment.
The staff of the 10-Z Bunker consists of students and people with disabilities. The guide tells us a blind man found a real, permanent job here for the first time in his life. That’s great, isn’t it? The tour takes you past old equipment and installations, telephone boxes, photos, and more. But you can also set out on your own; book a skip-the-line ticket here.
Tip 14 – Visit the second-largest ossuary in Europe
Ossuary? Yes, you know, a charnel house. Still no clue? I understand, me neither. An ossuary is no more than a building where bones are kept. A bit sinister perhaps, but when visiting the Brno ossuary, that feeling does not creep up on me. The way the skulls and bones are displayed is actually quite artful. You’ll find the memorial next to the St. James Church: a staircase goes down, and there it is.
Bones of as many as 50,000 people were found in the spaces under the St. James Church. Around the thirteenth century, the cemetery offered too little space, which is why they opened the graves after ten years. They put the bones under the church to free up a grave. In the current space, the bones of about 2,500 people are artfully stacked. There are short tours of half an hour, or you can discover the space yourself with a flyer in hand. You can buy tickets at the box office or online.
Tip 15 – Petting cats at cat cafe Kočkafé Schrödinger
This cat cafe had good reviews on Google, but I think they are mainly about the previous location of cat cafe Kočkafé Schrödinger. When I think of a cat cafe, I expect many purring cats. I only spotted five! Five in a huge, not very inspiring space. The girls at the counter are sweet, but that’s not what I’m here for. There are just not enough cats, and I am distracted by a snoring man cuddling with a cat. So, feel free to skip this one.
Tip! Looking for more food and drink inspiration in Brno? Check out this blog with the best restaurants, bars, and cafes in Brno.
Bonus tip 1: day trip to the Lednice palace
The beautiful Lednice Palace is one of the most visited sights in the Czech Republic. I understand why. The summer palace of the Liechtenstein royal family is quite impressive, with perfectly landscaped gardens, a lavish greenhouse, and romantically furnished quarters. The family was banned from the castle for alleged collaboration with the Nazis. The family is still trying to get the palace back through lawsuits. Until then, we can enjoy the splendor. One of the showpieces is the round wooden staircase made from one tree – without using nails.
I would definitely visit the palace with a guide so that you learn as much as possible about the history of the building and the family. This way, you discover who is depicted in the paintings – such as Sidonia, who gave birth to 24 children. Or why there’s a mirror in the music hall – the lady of the house didn’t like her husband looking at a painting of a naked woman over dinner, so she switched places with him. Afterward, he had a mirror hung so he could still look.
Tickets can be purchased on-site or online in advance.
Tip! Want to visit more castles in South Moravia or just an alternative to Lednice? Try Valtice. This castle has a huge wine cellar with the hundred best wines of the Czech Republic. And! It’s self-service. Cheers!
Bonus tip 2: wine tour at AnnoVino in Lednice
South Moravia is known for viticulture in the region. According to the Czechs, their wine is on the rise, and in ten years, it will be just as well-known as, for example, French and Italian wines. So if you have the chance to visit a vineyard, definitely go for it.
I’m in luck because, in September, they are harvesting at AnnoVino. The grapes are processed into wine in the same building as the wine shop. The vineyards are scattered over the area. A cheerful sommelier walks us through the building where AnnoVino has been selling wine since 2019. The man does not speak a single word of English, but the pleasure he radiates is understood by everyone. Fortunately, a lady who explains the entire production process in English comes along. And meanwhile, the sommelier pours us wine directly from the tanks. Call or email AnnoVino to make an appointment if you also want a tour.
Hotels in Brno
There are quite a few options in Brno to stay. You could try the Continental Hotel. I think it’s a bit old-fashioned, and that turns out to be exactly how it’s supposed to be! Manager Eva explains that they want to keep the style alive. This is what you call the Brussels style. The champagne bar on the ground floor is an extra reason to go to the Continental Hotel. Let’s bubble!
Hotel Passage is a fairly new hotel in Brno. The rooms are spacious and clean but have a cold and clinical feel. However, the beds and shower are very comfortable, and the breakfast buffet is extensive and delicious. The hotel is slightly outside the center but only a five-minute walk.
So another option is de 10-Z Bunker. That’s more of an interesting accommodation option than a nice place to stay. Maybe try it for a night and then quickly look for more luxury.
But, if it is available, I would go for Luxury Oasis any day. This is a fantastic luxury apartment for one or two people. It is on the fourth floor (the elevator goes to the third) and is a smartly furnished design attic apartment. Everything has been thought of and provided for, and I could have easily stayed here for a week. You can cook like at home, hang on the couch like at home, and you even have a workplace.
And I haven’t even mentioned the sauna yet. Yes, there is a private sauna in this apartment. I suspect they created this spot on the balcony. Very smart use of space. You get slippers, towels, and relaxing music. What else do you need, right? If you come by car, this apartment has free parking space. Convinced? Book now.
More Czech inspiration?
Useful links for your Czech trip
- Accommodation. My favorite is still Booking.com. Rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. GetYourGuide and Viator offer the best tours and activities. WithLocals offers activities with local guides. For ‘free’ walking tours, check Freetour.com and GuruWalk, and for bike tours, go to Baja Bikes.
- Attractions and museums. Check out Tiqets for tickets for museums and attractions (you get 5% discount with the code KIMOPREIS22)
- Car rental. You can compare prices at Discover Cars or Rentalcars.com.
- Flights. Compare your options! Be sure to check Skyscanner, Trip, and Kiwi.
- Money. Your bank cards may not be accepted everywhere. When you travel, you could opt for a Revolut card as an additional card.
- Package deals. Prefer a fully catered holiday? Expedia and CheapOair might have suitable options.
- Train and bus. Travel to the Czech Republic with NS International or book buses and trains with Busbud, 12Go or Omio.
- Travel guides. Call me old-fashioned, but I still enjoy browsing through a paper travel guide. Available at Amazon.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
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