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Latest update: 4 August 2023
The Bohemian Forest in the Czech Republic consists of about 80% forest. Lovely towns and noteworthy sights await you between those thousands of trees. I will take you to Klatovy, Sušice, and Kašperské Hory in the Bohemian Forest.
Šumava = the Bohemian Forest in the Czech Republic
In the Czech Republic, they call the Bohemian Forest ‘Šumava’. It means ‘to rustle’ and refers to the rustling leaves in the trees and the Vltava river. Šumava is the largest national park in the Czech Republic. The Bohemian Forest is in the Pilsen region, and you can perfectly combine a visit to the Šumava national park with a visit to the city of Pilsen. There are also lovely towns in the Bohemian Forest itself (and sometimes ghost towns). I’ll share what you can do in Klatovy, Sušice, and Kašperské Hory and which sights you should not miss there.
Kašperské Hory in the Czech Republic
Kašperské Hory is a small, sleepy town. At the end of May, I see the first cautious signs of a busy summer season. The first groups of cyclists come to have a drink at the bars in town. According to my Czech guide, cyclists will soon flood the town. Summers in Kašperské Hory are for cycling; winters are for skiing.
And hiking is always an option, of course. The fresh mountain air and the Bohemian Forest invite you to discover the green, endless forests and fields and the occasional deer. There is not much to do in the center of Kašperské Hory. There are two museums: one about historic motorcycles (here) and one about the region with lots of glassware and taxidermy (here).
The real crowd-puller is the Kašperk castle. It is a medieval castle in the middle of the forest with fantastic views, and you can do a guided tour of the castle. If you want to know more, please check out my blog about the castles of the Bohemian Forest.
Seismic station in Kasperské Hory
If you want a unique experience, I’ll send you to Kašperské Hory seismic station. Brand new, opened in the spring of 2023. Well, the seismic station has been there since 1960, but from now on, you can visit it. The Institute of Geophysics in Prague has opened up the seismic station to the public so you can learn about earthquakes. Did you know that a seismic wave travels about five kilometers per second and that you can measure earthquakes from Japan and New Zealand in Kašperské Hory?
But how exactly are these earthquakes measured? How has the work field developed? My seismological knowledge is zero, so it’s super cool to learn more about it from people who clearly have a passion for their work. And I can even go to the epicenter of the seismic station, about 40 to 50 meters underground. Check out the scheduled tours here, and just to be sure, get in touch with them about the language of the tour.
Klatovy in the Bohemian Forest
Klatovy is one of the gateways to the Šumava National Park, the Bohemian Forest. The city is much bigger than Kašperské Hory, but the main sights are all literally a stone’s throw from each other.
The Black Tower of Klatovy
The white towers of the church and a black tower are the highlights of the town square. The Black Tower (Černá věž) was built in the 16th century to provide a good view of Klatovy and beyond in case enemies showed up or a fire broke out. But it was also simply a prestige project: it’s a beautiful tower. Over the centuries, additions and extensions were made: they added a town hall and a church, a tower bell, an astronomical clock, and a new roof. And you can now go up on that roof to enjoy the view. It’s called the Black Tower, by the way, because of a massive fire that even melted the tower bell.
Jesuit Church
Officially, Klatovy’s church is called “Jesuit Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary and St. Ignatius”. But let’s stick to Jesuit Church. It is a remarkable church inside. The baroque decoration is very different from most churches. It’s a lot to take in. Make sure to check out the stairs of the pulpit and try to find the hearts with ears. Their meaning: hear with your ears and listen to your heart.
You may only visit the church with a guide. You can arrange a guide at the cash register of the catacombs. The guide will probably only speak Czech, but audio guides are available. For more information about the visit, please go to the website.
The catacombs of Klatovy
It’s a bit uncomfortable. The crypt of the Jesuit Church contains the mummified bodies of members of the Jesuit order, local nobility, and wealthy citizens. Over 200 people were ‘buried’ in the crypts from 1676 until 1784 when Emperor Joseph II banned this way of burial.
The bodies are completely dehydrated and now weigh about eight to ten kilograms. The drying out (the mummification process) only takes three months. And now you can see those mummies. I think it’s a strange idea: these people died centuries ago and are now on display. They didn’t sign up for that, did they?
But there is more to see in Klatovy’s catacombs. Like an exhibition about the Jesuit order so that you can learn more about the origins and their way of life. You buy a ticket at the box office.
The baroque pharmacy ‘At the White Unicorn’
The pharmacy is the absolute highlight of Klatovy for me. All those tin, wood, porcelain, and glass jars. And all the furniture is made of wood. All hand-carved. This pharmacy is one of the few baroque pharmacies in the world preserved so well. It is now a pharmacy museum, and the tour is so much fun.
I feel like I’m stepping into the world of Harry Potter or a witch movie. There are leeches, herbs, and a secret cabinet with poisons. The guide shows how medicines were made by hand and how doctors used to treat patients: “If you survive the activity of doctors, you have a chance at healing.”
The pharmacy was in use until 1966. And that white unicorn? Well, that horn in the pharmacy is definitely not a unicorn’s but a toothed whale’s tooth. In the Middle Ages, a unicorn’s horn was thought to have healing powers. That is why pharmacies often used a unicorn as a logo or symbol.
Sušice in the Bohemian Forest
Sušice is one of the gateways to the Bohemian Forest. You can start many beautiful hikes through the forest from here. The historic center is well-preserved, and you will find many beautiful buildings in Svobody Square.
Šumava Museum
The Šumava museum is in the stately white building on the square. Here you can visit a huge mechanical nativity scene all year round. Another part of the museum is dedicated to… matches. Until 2008 there was a factory in Sušice that produced matches. After 169 years, the production and factory were sold to India. There are machines from the factory on display and countless matchboxes. Nice for a short visit.
Chapel of the Guardian Angel
The chapel is located on the Stráž hill in Sušice and has been there since 1682. The men who manage the Chapel of the Guardian Angel do not speak a word of English, but their dedication to the chapel is evident. They proudly show the small altars in the chapel and guide me through galleries with five small towers and a higher chapel in the middle. To see it properly as a whole, you need a drone.
According to legend, the parents of a little boy had a small chapel built on the mountain with the painting of a guardian angel. This is in gratitude and respect for the guardian angel who appeared when a snake grabbed their little boy in the forest. The little boy, frightened, saw an angel smiling at him, and then the snake let go.
The castles of Velhartice and Rabí
Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to explore Velhartice and Rabí’s towns, but I paid their castles a visit! There are three extraordinary castle ruins in the Bohemian Forest; Kašperk Castle is the third. All three are worth a visit. You can find more information in this article about the castle trio of Šumava.
More Czech inspiration?
Useful links for your Czech trip
- Accommodation. My favorite is still Booking.com. Rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. GetYourGuide and Viator offer the best tours and activities. WithLocals offers activities with local guides. For ‘free’ walking tours, check Freetour.com and GuruWalk, and for bike tours, go to Baja Bikes.
- Attractions and museums. Check out Tiqets for tickets for museums and attractions (you get 5% discount with the code KIMOPREIS22)
- Car rental. You can compare prices at Discover Cars or Rentalcars.com.
- Flights. Compare your options! Be sure to check Skyscanner, Trip, and Kiwi.
- Money. Your bank cards may not be accepted everywhere. When you travel, you could opt for a Revolut card as an additional card.
- Package deals. Prefer a fully catered holiday? Expedia and CheapOair might have suitable options.
- Train and bus. Travel to the Czech Republic with NS International or book buses and trains with Busbud, 12Go or Omio.
- Travel guides. Call me old-fashioned, but I still enjoy browsing through a paper travel guide. Available at Amazon.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links. If you buy something through these links, I might receive a small commission.
I was in the Bohemian Forest on the invitation of Visit Czechia and Turistu Raj.
