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Latest update: 20 January 2025
Especially in winter, it’s always a gamble whether you’ll make it to Kazbegi when driving the Georgian Military Highway. The road often gets closed without warning. My tour from Tbilisi to Kazbegi starts with a flat tire and ends… nowhere near Kazbegi. And yet, I still had an amazing day!
Quick note: Kazbegi = Stepantsminda
Technically, Kazbegi’s official name is Stepantsminda, but nobody calls it that. Everyone says Kazbegi – it’s a town in northern Georgia surrounded by mountains, some reaching heights of 4100 meters! Most people come here for hiking and biking in late spring or early fall since summer gets super crowded and can be scorching hot.
In winter, the main attractions are the Tsminda Sameba church (also known as the Gergeti Trinity Church) and the Friendship Monument. These are the highlights of most day tours to Kazbegi. But whether you’ll actually make it there… well, that’s another story!
Winter road closures
In winter, the final stretch of the route between Gudauri and Kazbegi can shut down at any moment. Well, not exactly “at any moment.” It happens when there’s too much snow; it’s simply unsafe to continue driving. Sometimes these closures last just a few hours, but they can stretch to a full day. And here’s the kicker – you never know when it will happen. You might be halfway to Kazbegi’s attractions when you suddenly find yourself forced to spend some quality time at Gudauri’s ski slopes instead.
So that happens to me. Now I have to say that I also find the snow-covered mountains of Gudauri very beautiful, but I am a bit disappointed that I didn’t see the church and the monument. But oh well, it’s a nice plan B.
Starting with a bang (or rather, a flat)
Not only did I fail to reach Kazbegi, but my day started with a flat tire. Thankfully, I was on a tour from Tbilisi to Kazbegi (this one), so I didn’t have to deal with it myself. The driver was clearly not thrilled about it. But as our guide quipped, “Georgian drivers are never happy.” Soon enough, we were back on the road in our minibus with super narrow seats and what I can only describe as disco lighting.
The Georgian Military Highway
Our driver zooms along the Georgian Military Highway. This route got its current name in the 1990s—before that, it was known as part of the Silk Road. It’s an ancient mountain route heading toward Russia. Hundreds of trucks line the road, waiting for permission to pass through the tunnels and cross the border. They’re stuck here because of the bad weather. Nobody knows how long it will take them to move again.
Along the road, I spot dogs everywhere. It’s my first day in Georgia, so I’m not used to it yet. It turns out Georgia is absolutely PACKED with dogs. These street dogs are all super friendly, and they’re well taken care of in the cities and tourist spots. But here, along the Georgian Military Highway, I see some scrawny ones lying in the snow. I know they’re used to it, but I want to take them all home and care for them.
Sights along the Georgian Military Highway
In a way, I’m grateful the bus windows are foggy. Our driver races along the Georgian Military Highway toward Kazbegi, overtaking in terrifying spots and taking curves like a Formula 1 driver. But at the same time, I wish I could see more because this route from Tbilisi to Kazbegi is widely considered Georgia’s most scenic drive.
Several cool attractions are along this highway. Make sure to stop at the Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri Fort, the river crossing at Pasanauri, and Gudauri.
Zhinvali Reservoir
The first stop from Tbilisi is the Zhinvali Reservoir. This massive artificial lake was created during Soviet times, around the 1980s. It provides clean water to all of Tbilisi, and about half of Tbilisi’s residents still depend on it today.
It’s a picture-perfect spot. The large lake with mountains in the background is stunning. There’s even a 12th-century church in the lake. The town of Zhinvali used to be here, but they flooded it to create the reservoir. You can see the church roof when the water level is low enough. In the summer months, you can even swim in the lake.
At the Georgian Military Highway viewpoints over the Zhinvali Reservoir, you’ll find typical tourist spots. There are stalls selling warm coats, scarves (in January), and souvenirs. Dogs wander around, taking breaks from eating snow to roll over for belly rubs.
Ananuri Fort
A bit further along lies Ananuri Fort, overlooking the Zhinvali Reservoir. The fort complex has two small churches. During my visit, one of them was in service. You can light a candle if you’d like.
The fort looks magical, covered in snow, but that also makes it super slippery. As I watch people inch their way along the fort walls, I decide to skip that part—it’s too slippery for my taste!
In the parking lot, street dogs gather (some bolder than others), and men with parrots and horses offer photo ops. Surprisingly, lots of people take them up on it! If you walk back over the bridge from the parking lot, you’ll get the best view of the fort. The second photo below was taken with a drone.
Pasanauri and the White and Black Aragvi
We make a quick photo stop at Pasanauri. The White and Black Aragvi tributaries merge at this village on the Georgian Military Highway. In good natural light, you can clearly see where the dark and light waters meet.
This is where the Aragvi River becomes one. It’s pretty confusing, honestly – the river’s exact route isn’t clear. There are even four “main sources” of the river. But here in Pasanauri, you can see the White and Black Aragvi come together.
In the summer months, you can go rafting in this area. Otherwise, Pasanauri is just a quick photo stop.
Tip! Our tour stops at restaurant Gorda, but you can eat anywhere along the highway. Gorda has excellent food and fantastic valley views. In summer, you can sit on the terrace.
Google Maps location
Gudauri
After lunch, it’s time for our next stop: Gudauri ski resort. It turns out it’s also our last stop because there’s too much snow ahead. We drive along slippery mountain roads past massive peaks. The driver’s chatting on his phone while driving – he could probably drive this road in his sleep. I can’t, though, so I’m holding my breath around some of these cliffs and deep valleys!
Plan B is about a 1.5-hour visit to the ski slopes. I’m not a skier, and there isn’t really enough time anyway. I do take the ski lift up (14 GEL in 2024) to enjoy the view. If you’re interested in paragliding, that costs 350 GEL (in 2024).
There are plenty of cafés where you can grab a drink or get in on some après-ski action. Gudauri is a legitimate winter sports destination. It’s snow-sure and way less crowded than the slopes in France and Austria. So, if you’re looking for a different, more affordable ski vacation spot, check out Gudauri!
By the way, I discover in the parking lot that my guide’s comment about Georgian drivers isn’t entirely true. Sometimes they’re happy! A group of drivers is having a blast with their minibusses on the slippery parking lot, taking turns doing donuts and letting their buses slide around. Fifteen minutes later, one of them is less happy: his back window shattered. Oops.
Missed stops
As I mentioned earlier: no Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument and no Gergeti Holy Trinity Church for me. Oh well. But maybe you’ll have better luck and get to visit them. In summer, you’re pretty much guaranteed to make it. Winter is trickier because of snowfall.
How to visit Kazbegi from Tbilisi
Kazbegi is a popular day trip from Tbilisi. But you don’t have to return the same day – you can stay in Kazbegi for a while.
It’s about 150 kilometers one way, probably more with the fun stops along the route. So if you want to be back in Tbilisi by evening, you must make a full day of it. If you drive straight through, count on 3 to 3.5 hours, depending on the weather and your vehicle type.
I’m traveling solo when I want to visit Kazbegi, so I opt for a tour. But there are other options.
By rental car
All the tours make basically the same stops, so you can easily plug the stops into your GPS and drive the route yourself. You can also easily add stops like the Chronicles of Georgia Monument and Mtskheta. Most Kazbegi tours don’t stop there but offer those as separate tours.
Please check the weather, though. In winter, it can snow heavily and get slippery, and if you’re not used to these conditions, driving the Georgian Military Highway can be pretty intense. Plus, the driving style in Georgia is… um… let’s say adventurous.
I rented from Sunny Cars in Georgia because I liked having Dutch customer service and full insurance coverage. Check out Sunny Cars options here, or compare other options via Discover Cars.
With a private driver
Sounds fancy, right? A private driver. But if you’re with a few people, a private driver is actually a great option. Often, it’s cheaper than paying for multiple tour tickets, and you can set your own pace. You can plan this day trip perfectly on GoTrip’s website. You input all your stops and can even choose an English-speaking driver.
With a tour
There are tons of tour operators eager to take you to Kazbegi. They leave around 9 AM and return to Tbilisi around 7 PM. The tours are virtually identical: they all make pretty much the same stops. The main difference is the restaurants where you lunch. My advice: compare a few options on GetYourGuide, read the descriptions and reviews, and pick one. Don’t overthink it. They’re really all similar.
If you don’t want to research, I went with this tour. I chose it because it includes honey, wine, and chacha tasting. The guide spoke perfect English and ensured everyone had a great time. The lunch restaurant Gorda was fantastic. The food was great, the view amazing, and the short wine and chacha tasting was perfect entertainment between ordering and eating.
More Georgia travel inspiration?
Useful links for your Georgia trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook, and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare prices and insurance coverage, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com. In Georgia, a private transfer or tour with a private driver is often very affordable. Use GoTrip for this.
- Reading tip. If you like reading, I recommend buying this fantastic book: The Eighth Life (for Brilka). It is about generations of women living and suffering in Georgia. More than 1000 pages, so get cozy and comfortable!
- Travel guides. I like paper travel guides to browse through, for sale at Amazon, among others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train and Bus Travel by train or bus through Georgia with Busbud, 12Go, or Omio.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Start your search at Expedia or CheapOair.
- Yoga retreat. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Georgia.
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links. If you buy something through these links, I might receive a small commission.
