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Latest update: 9 June 2025
Syracuse is probably my biggest surprise on my Sicily trip. It’s a town on the southeastern coast of Sicily, and I’d never heard of it before. Without any expectations, I step onto the Ortigia peninsula, and I’m completely smitten. The old center is car-free, packed with charming terraces, and along the narrow streets are typical Italian buildings in warm, earthy tones featuring elegant balconies. In Syracuse, it’s easy to lose track of time.
Best things to do in Syracuse
Syracuse sits in Val di Noto, a valley between Syracuse, Noto, and Ragusa. As often happens, I realize almost immediately after arriving that I definitely need more time here. Time that I obviously don’t have during this trip, so I’m certainly not crossing this region off my endless bucket list yet.
Syracuse was larger and more significant than Athens during the Greek Golden Age. After the Greeks, many others followed: Romans, Arabs, Byzantines, Normans, and the French… and now, mainly tourists.
Syracuse actually consists of two parts: the Ortigia peninsula and the newer part on the mainland. There, you’ll also find the ancient archaeological park Neapolis. You definitely need to see that, but a boat trip and a visit to the market are also among the top things to do in Syracuse.
Walking around Ortigia
A visit to Syracuse will most likely start with strolling around the Ortigia peninsula. And there will probably be a few more rounds to follow because there are so many cute side streets, terraces, little shops, and more. And of course also several attractions.
There’s the Temple of Apollo, which sits right next to the market. These are the ruins of an ancient Greek temple. The ruins were discovered in 1890 and then excavated. Over the centuries it also served as a church and mosque. It’s right in the public space, so you don’t have to pay admission.
At Piazza del Duomo you’ll find several beautiful churches and city palaces. The most beautiful and important is obviously Syracuse’s Duomo. You can visit this for €2 ($2.20). Take a look around this square as well. Maybe you’ll sit on the steps for a while because there’s plenty to see. Kids playing tag, a g
The Diana Fountain is a popular spot for taking photos. It’s really a beautiful fountain, but with the large number of tourists around it, it’s less attractive. Diana is the Greek goddess of the hunt, by the way, and she was Ortigia’s patron saint.
Castello Maniace
At the very tip of Ortigia sits the coastal fort Castello Maniace. Unfortunately, there’s heavy renovation during my visit, but otherwise, you should be able to take a look inside for €5 ($5.50). Over the years, the Castello has served as a defensive work, prison, barracks, and is now a tourist attraction. It’s also a place where you can enjoy the view. If you have a drone, bring it! (I have the DJI Mini 4 Pro.)
Eat oysters at the market
The Antico Mercato di Ortigia starts (if you’re walking from one of the bridges connecting the mainland to Ortigia) with souvenir stalls. Completely packed with everything you don’t need. It’s fun to look at, but the market only becomes really worthwhile (if you ask me) when you reach the food stalls. They’re mainly fish stalls with simple eateries in between. Both Sicilians and tourists line up here for an affordable lunch. It’s busy and loud, and I can’t stop people-watching. But it feels wonderfully local and authentic. I also like to stop at the stalls where you get an oyster with a small glass of wine for €3 ($3.30). Oh, bring cash. You can’t pay by card everywhere.
Archaeological park Neapolis
In the modern part of the city, on the mainland, lies Parco Archeologico della Neapolis – Neapolis means new city. The Greek theater was built in the 5th century BC (rebuilt 2 centuries later), and 16,000 people could sit there at the time. Unfortunately, I find it quite disappointing. The ancient seats are primarily covered with planks because of live performances in the summer months. That really detracts from the experience.
The Roman theater is definitely more impressive here I can easily picture gladiators and horse races. Honestly, I find the entrance fee of €16.50 ($18) quite steep for what there is to see in Neapolis. There are trails you can follow, but they’re only indicated on a map, and there’s no signage. Many sections are also simply walking paths, of course, spruced up with plants and statues. And I miss information boards. I have trouble placing what I’m actually looking at.
But anyway, there’s still a limestone quarry to see (Latomia del Paradiso) and a cave shaped like an ear (use your imagination!). That cave is called Dionysius’ ear because, according to legend, the tyrant Dionysius eavesdropped on conversations between prisoners in cells in the quarry here. The cave is 66 feet (20 meters) high and 213 feet (65 meters) deep, and when you walk into it, you probably can’t help but test the acoustics like I did. I find the Grotta dei Cordari especially beautiful with the large blue masks in the water.
Tip! Pay close attention to opening hours everywhere in Sicily. Many museums and shops close in the afternoon and reopen only at the end of the day or early evening.
Modern basilica
Tastes differ, but after seeing countless churches in Sicily, the Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime is at least unique. According to some, it looks like an upside-down ice cream cone – I can see that. The design was selected from a church design competition. Check if the door is open; then you can also admire the architecture from inside.
Boat trip around Ortigia
As I walk through Ortigia, I keep catching glimpses of that bright blue sea out of the corner of my eye. So inviting. So I decide I want to take a boat trip here. Quite last minute, I book a boat tour through GetYourGuide. This one is a bit more expensive than most boat tours in Syracuse. But it lasts a bit longer because you don’t just sail along the peninsula but also to the sea caves and Pillirina nature reserve. And, judging by the number of available spots I see, I’m hoping we’ll have the boat to ourselves.
And yes! Private boat trip!
Guide and captain Francesco doesn’t speak a word of English but is very clever with the Google Translate app. He connects it to his speakers, and so we receive explanations in Dutch about what we see – he mainly points out expensive hotels and attractions. We visit various caves, snorkel, get a drink, and enjoy the view. The snorkeling isn’t amazing, but it’s very lovely to splash around in the water.
Google Maps location pick-up point
The tastiest sandwiches in Syracuse
I’m in Syracuse for two days, and for two days, I have lunch at the most popular sandwich shop (after having that oyster at the market, obviously). Around lunchtime, it’s jam-packed and chaotic at Caseificio Borderi. Still, the wait time is relatively short. There are numerous tables outside, and the service is extremely fast-paced. The sandwiches are served in a basket with paper, and the portions are large. You order 1 sandwich and get 2 half sandwiches, and that’s enough for two (if you’re not starving). I see quite a few people ordering multiple sandwiches and then being shocked by the amount of food they get on their table.
Can’t choose which sandwich you want? I recommend number 10!
Beach/rock day
Unfortunately, Syracuse doesn’t have real beaches. There are rocks or plateaus on the water in several places, though. Only at Spiaggia di Cala Rossa have I been able to discover a small strip of sand (here). If you want to use a sun platform (is that a word?), you can go to Solarium Forte Vigliena (here). Zefiro Solarium is a bit more comfortable because it also offers beds and parasols (here).
The best sunset in Syracuse
Around sunset, you need to head to Lungomare Alfeo. This is the seaside promenade with lots of bars and outdoor cafes. My favorite is Mikatú. This is a laid-back spot where the owner plays covers of old rock music over the speakers. We go for a glass of bubbly without snacks. But the drink without snacks costs the same as a drink with snacks, so take those snacks haha.
A (not so) legendary fountain
When I search for Mikatú on Google Maps, my eye falls on Fonte Aretusa. According to the description, it is a legendary fountain. I want to see it! Well… It’s a unique place because it’s a freshwater spring where ducks and geese swim, and you can look into it from above. You can also visit it for €2 ($2.20), but I skip that because it doesn’t seem that legendary to me. But maybe I’m missing something?
Some more eating tips in Syracuse
Okay, so you get an oyster at the market, a sandwich at Caseificio Borderi, aperitivo at Mikatú, and what else?
Well, a granita at Nuova Dolceria, for example. A granita is typically Sicilian. It’s a semi-frozen dessert made of water, sugar, and fruit juice or with flavors like pistachio or coffee. You eat it with a spoon, and it can be had at any time of day. Some people even have it for breakfast. At Nuova Dolceria, the lemon one is nicely thirst-quenching.
For once, I’m not in the mood for Italian food (who would have thought there was such a thing as too much Italian food?), so I head to Bistro Le Vin de l’Assassin. This is a restaurant with both French and Italian influences. My tablemate and I mostly enjoy the lovely place and the appetizers. The salmon and tuna tartare as main courses are a bit disappointing.
Next to the remains of the Greek temple Apollo sits cocktail bar BOATS. A great spot to sit in the evening, sipping a fancy cocktail. Here, you don’t order a Sex on the Beach or Mojito, but unique flavor combinations. Our choices turn out surprisingly well!
The next tip is mainly known among Syracuse residents: Paninoteca da Antonio e Daniele. This food truck sells sausage sandwiches and burgers until late in the evening, with the specialty being a horse meat sandwich. If you’re in the mood for fast food, this is a good option.
Free parking in Syracuse
On Ortigia it’s quite a challenge to find a parking spot, a challenge I don’t take on. Instead, I park for free on Via Agatocle and walk a bit. My rental car is from EasyTerra, but I also find Sunny Cars to be a nice option.
And finally: sleeping in Syracuse
Staying overnight on Ortigia sounds like a good plan until you realize that the peninsula is mainly car-free and that many roads are incredibly narrow. So I ultimately choose accommodation on the mainland, not too far to walk from Ortigia, of course. I go for Orty Suite. A pretty luxurious studio with an excellent shower and a beautiful kitchen that’s secretly not that well equipped. But anyway, apart from a cup of coffee and juice, I don’t need to make anything here anyway. There’s even a small patio in front of the studio.
More Sicily travel inspiration
Useful links for your Sicily trip
- Accommodation. Always handy is Booking.com. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. Book “free” walking tours at Freetour or GuruWalk , and for bike tours, Baja Bikes.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Compare prices and insurance coverage at DiscoverCars and Rentalcars.com.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Definitely Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Bol.com and Amazon.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Start your search at Expedia or CheapOair.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Yoga retreat. Or join a yoga retreat in Sicily.
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