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Nowadays, more and more brands are marketing sustainable, eco-friendly, reef-safe sun products. Which is very cool because it is good for the environment and good for ourselves. In this blog, I’ll explain why. And I’ll also tell you what makes sunscreen eco-friendly or not – because it isn’t easy to figure out.
Warning: sunscreen prohibited
I first saw it in Mexico: a sign asking not to use sunscreen if I wanted to go into the water. I had already applied it generously in my hostel, so too bad; I went in anyway. But the sign got me thinking. Why wasn’t I allowed to use sunscreen if I wanted to swim in that beautiful cenote?
Dying coral – partly thanks to sunscreen
Actually, it is very logical. The sunscreen that we put on our skin ends up in the water. The ingredients of our sunscreens are often harmful to marine life. Sunscreen destroys plankton, is toxic to fish, and the coral dies. The growth of the coral is hampered, the coral cannot recover well, it fades, and the algae that live on the coral get all kinds of viruses. When those algae die, they can no longer provide the coral with oxygen, nutrition, and color. And so the coral also dies. In this way, we unintentionally and unconsciously destroy the underwater world.
How to sunbathe safely and eco-friendly?
Hmm, that’s not what we want, of course. I can’t deny that an oily film appears around me every time I go into the water. That can’t be good, right? Indeed, that is not okay – according to today’s standards. Fortunately, there are alternatives to old-fashioned sunscreen.
Yes, the promotion machine for sustainable sunscreen is currently working overtime! However, it still remains difficult for the average person to determine what really is an environmentally-friendly choice. The lists of ingredients still remain difficult to comprehend. On top of that, there are various aspects to sustainability or eco-friendliness. Naturally, it is about the ingredients in the sunscreen – but also about plastic and biodegradable packaging, sunscreen spray versus sunscreen cream, and cruelty-free or even vegan products. Phew, so many things to keep in mind! Let’s go through them one by one.
By the way, I tried and tested 18 brands of eco-friendly sunscreen available in the Netherlands. If you’re interested:
SPF: the protection factor
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. The SPF tells you how long you can stay in the sun without burning. So if your sunscreen has SPF 15 on it, you can spend fifteen times longer in the sun than without sunscreen. How long that exactly is, depends on your skin. One person can sit in the sun for fifteen minutes without getting burned, while another can’t even last for five minutes. The calculation goes like this: normal duration * factor. So 15 minutes * factor 15 = 225 minutes.
The higher the factor, the longer you can stay in the sun. Did you know many sunscreen brands stop at SPF 30? The difference in protection between SPF 30 and SPF 50 is around 1 percent. With SPF 20, you get about 95% protection, 97% protection with SPF 30, and 98% with SPF 50. So the sun products with SPF 50 don’t do much more for you, but it does give the false impression that you’re safe for an endless amount of time. This way, you still run the risk of getting sunburn and skin cancer.
UVA and UVB
The SPF indicates how long you are protected from UV rays. There are two types: Ultraviolet Aging (UVA) and Ultraviolet Burning (UVB). The UVA rays penetrate deep into your skin and can age your skin, and increase the risk of skin cancer. UVB rays burn you; these rays penetrate less deeply. Most sunscreens protect against all UV rays, but you would do well to check this.
We often think that we only need to protect ourselves from direct sunlight. But did you know that UVA rays simply go through glass? And that the radiation is also present when it is not sunny? That’s why it’s recommended to protect your skin all year round.
UV filters: mineral vs. chemical
Every sunscreen contains UV filters to protect your skin from the sun. A filter actually traps and absorbs the sun’s rays before they can damage your skin and skin cells. You have roughly two choices: chemical filters or mineral filters. We also call mineral filters physical filters or natural filters. But which are the most sustainable? That is actually very difficult to say. There are good and bad filters in both categories. The tendency is to say that it is better to go for mineral filters, but unfortunately, it is not that simple.
There is quite a discussion about what is good for you and nature. Researchers are not yet in agreement, and the different brands aren’t either. However, everyone seems to agree that chemical filters penetrate your skin and can therefore end up in your bloodstream and even in your urine. The chemical filter converts the UV radiation in the deep layers of the skin into heat.
But does a mineral filter do that too? The last word has not yet been said. A mineral filter reflects the sun (and therefore the UV radiation) by placing a layer on the skin instead of being absorbed into the skin. But some researchers and brands indicate that these mineral filters also absorb, just like chemical filters. The difference seems to be that mineral filters absorb with metal oxide, and chemical filters absorb UV radiation with carbon. Unfortunately, the layer that the mineral filter leaves on your skin often produces a white haze. And that is somewhat… less charming.
Oxybenzone is a widely used chemical filter, as well as octinoxate and PABA. And then you also have Tinosorb S and Tinosorb M. These are chemical filters that both absorb and reflect sunlight (just like the mineral filters). The more popular mineral filters are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Zinc oxide is said to offer better protection – but titanium dioxide is better for marine life. So it’s nearly impossible to get it 100% right! As mentioned, a lot of research is still being done, and there are always new research results. For example, this report says that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide may not be the best options for the ocean after all. Difficult!
Nanoparticles and microplastics
Producers of sunscreen creams try to prevent the infamous white layer created by the mineral filters by adding nanoparticles to the product. A nanoparticle is a tiny particle that makes the creams more easily spreadable. In the case of titanium dioxide, it simply means that they made the titanium dioxide extremely small and should thus be referred to as nano. A nanoparticle is not necessarily microplastic, but it could be.
No white haze, better spreadability: that sounds good, but the smaller the particles, the more likely they are to penetrate your skin. If you go swimming in the sea with such a sunscreen, those nanoparticles also end up in the gills and brains of fish, for example. That is, of course, not what you want.
Starting from a certain quantity or composition, producers are obliged to put “nano” on the list of ingredients. Limited amounts do not have to be mentioned, so there can still be nanoparticles in non-nano sunscreens. These products often have a coating to enlarge the nanoparticles so that they remain on your skin. But it doesn’t seem entirely fair to put it on the packaging as a non-nano sunscreen, does it? Regulations from the EU have therefore become stricter. As a result, sustainable sunscreen creams that were recently non-nano now suddenly contain nanoparticles. While nothing has changed in the substance. According to European guidelines, the nanoparticles should no longer be in sprays because they can be carcinogenic if you inhale them – yikes. They are safe to use on your skin.
But the health risk with nano and non-nano zinc oxide and titanium dioxide is very low, according to the Environmental Working Group. The Environmental Working Group says that titanium dioxide sunscreens don’t even exist without nanoparticles. According to them, nanoparticles and titanium dioxide go hand in hand. However, the nanoparticles from one brand may be larger or smaller than those from another brand. The Environmental Working Group also says titanium dioxide filters (including nanoparticles) are still the best option for the ocean. They claim that they barely penetrate your skin.
Conclusion? One nanoparticle is not the other. How such a nanoparticle works and whether it is safe depends on many things (reaction to sunlight, size, shape, effect on the cell, and so on). Nanoparticles are, therefore, not necessarily bad – but they definitely are confusing!
About those microplastics: a nanoparticle is not by definition a microplastic, but it could be. Microplastics are tiny, solid pieces of plastic that dissolve poorly in water and are not biodegradable. It has not been officially established what is and what is not microplastic. So it just depends on who you ask. Therefore, one environmental organization can qualify something as microplastic while another does not see the same substance as microplastic. A good starting point to take a closer look at all your care products is the Beat the Microbead app. Scan your product and find out if it contains microplastics.
Eco-friendly sunscreen for your skin and body
In addition to eco-friendly ingredients for nature, you naturally also want friendly ingredients for your skin and body. With that in mind, you are going to get confused once again. First of all, because every skin is different. The perfect sunscreen for your friend may result in rashes for you and the other way around. In that respect, it is, unfortunately, trial and error.
Many people don’t tolerate alcohol and perfumes in sunscreens, for example. Itching, bumps, chapped skin: it can all happen. For example, some people are also sensitive to oil, so it is better to opt for a natural water-based sunscreen. Those are usually the lotions.
I also noticed more brands proudly mention that their products don’t contain parabens. If you secretly have no idea what parabens are – like most of us: it’s a preservative that keeps your sunscreen from spoiling. It is a chemical and may be carcinogenic, which is why it is so controversial, and producers are proud to say their product is free of it. Justly!
Bluntly put, chemical filters can trigger allergic reactions, disrupt hormones, and be carcinogenic. However, this is really very black and white! Not ALL chemical filters are equally bad, and not ALL mineral filters are equally good. With mineral filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide), the health risks are minimal, and allergic reactions are rare.
What should and should NOT be on the list of ingredients of your biodegradable sunscreen
Of course, every brand claims to use the best ingredients. It is difficult for us ordinary people to determine which brand is right. Fortunately, there are also a few “simple” starting points – if you don’t want to make a scientific study of it. This way, you make the most sustainable, eco-friendly choice possible.
Scan packaging for some terms. If you can’t find them, then you’re probably fine with the eco-friendly sunscreen of your choice. Probably, because eco sunscreen is still under development, and new research and insights are still regularly emerging. These are the three biggest culprits:
- Oxybenzone / Benzofen-3 / bp-3
- Octyl methoxycinnamate / octinoxate
- PABA
If you know you have sensitive skin, you better also avoid this:
- Alcohol
- Parabens
- Perfume
These are ingredients that should make you happy:
- Zinc oxide (preference for non-nano)
- Titanium dioxide
- Tinosorb
Sustainable sunscreen, lotion, or stick?
If you are looking for the best sustainable sunscreen for you, you will also be faced with choosing which substance you like. A cream, a lotion, or a stick? Sunscreen cream is usually a bit thicker than a lotion. A sunscreen lotion often contains more water. And there is hardly any water in a sunscreen stick. The stick is very dense and prevents spilling! I haven’t actually come across any eco-friendly suntan oils yet. Now I’m not really into the oil anyway because the protection factor is often very low.
Pick an eco-friendly sunscreen cream over a spray
We often choose a sunscreen spray instead of a cream because it is easier to apply. It is simply a bit thinner. However, selecting an environmentally-friendly sunscreen cream is better because sunscreen is lost when spraying. It evaporates and ends up in nature – not so environmentally friendly. On top of that, it is a shame that you don’t use all of the product; economically, the cream is also the better choice.
Waterproof sunscreen does not exist
Waterproof or water-resistant? Um… ok. I had never really thought about this either, but it is actually quite logical that sunscreen is not entirely waterproof. After a dive in the water, the effect always decreases. That is why the term should no longer be used: it is misleading.
The advice is to re-lubricate every two hours, especially after swimming or sweating a lot. I actually think that the white haze that you see with some sustainable sunscreens becomes more visible when you apply it the second time or when you are still wet from the water.
Animal-friendly sunscreen – vegan sunscreen even!
If you go swimming with sunscreen on, it will naturally also end up in the water. That is not such a problem in the pool, but it is in nature. Sunscreens can be harmful to fish and coral. Coral is also an animal, did you know? The more natural the product, the less harmful. Many brands try to offer coral-friendly (reef-friendly) sunscreen. The problem is mainly in the filters that I already described.
There are two more things to look out for if you’re looking for an animal-friendly sunscreen. First, have animal tests been conducted to develop the product? And second, is it a vegan product?
Getting your hands on cruelty-free sunscreen is actually not that difficult because there is a European ban on animal testing for cosmetics. Sunscreen falls under that law. Only some brands manage to get around this by manufacturing in China, or simply because they are not bound by European regulations. In the overview of the best sustainable sunscreens, I have stated for each brand whether or not it is not cruelty-free. Is your favorite sunscreen not listed? Then check PETA’s cruelty-free list to find your brand.
Vegan sunscreen is taking it one step further. Vegan sunscreens are not only not tested on animals, but they are also free from animal ingredients – you can think of beeswax, for example. Luckily, there are more and more brands that make vegan sunscreen.
Packaging – zero waste sunscreen?
The packaging is also a big thing. Many sunscreens come in a chic box that contains a tube or spray. There are hardly any eco-friendly sun products without packaging on the market. I’ve only seen one at LUSH. Fortunately, most environmentally friendly sunscreen brands find it extremely important also to offer sustainable packaging. There are various options: from recyclable plastic to fully biodegradable material. These are terms you may come across:
- BPA-free: BPA (Bisphenol A) makes plastic and synthetic materials elastic. It is a chemical and can (in large quantities) be endocrine-disruptive.
- PP plastic: PP (polypropylene or polypropylene) is strong and recyclable plastic.
- Bio-based plastic or bioplastic: this material is obtained from natural products, such as sugar cane.
Choose wisely: the ‘best’ eco-friendly sunscreen
Well, that was quite a long read, wasn’t it? And it just remains difficult. But if you want to make a more sustainable choice, you can. I am happy to help you choose: I have tested various sustainable and/or natural sunscreens for you. All aspects that I have mentioned here can be found there.
All brands have provided me with their sunscreen product free of charge. None of them had any influence on the contents of this article.
First published: April 2019. Updated regularly since.
