Latest update: 16 December 2024
The icy wind brings tears to my eyes and blows the car doors shut. It is chilly on Snæfellsnes in Iceland. But it is also cool in the other sense of the word because there is a lot to see on Snæfellsnes in a short time. So I brave the cold and warm up at a hostel with the appropriate name ‘The Freezer’ in the evening.
Snæfell-stress
When I read about Snæfellsnes, I feel I am already running out of time. I see so many sights listed in blog articles and travel guides that I feel dizzy, and I think I need to set aside at least three days to explore the peninsula. If you also get that feeling, don’t worry; you don’t have to. All the sights on Snæfellsnes are small and won’t take up much time. Snæfellsnes is not nicknamed ‘mini-Iceland’ for nothing.
However, the reference to ‘mini’ is not only due to distances and sizes. It is also due to the diversity of the peninsula. You will find lava fields, volcanoes, cliffs, black beaches, waterfalls, and other natural phenomena typical of Iceland. Here on Snæfellsnes, you will find them all close together; this way, you get a good impression of what Iceland offers.
How long do you need for Snæfellsnes
Snæfellsnes is the peninsula about 120 kilometers above the Icelandic capital Reykjavík. It is perfect for a mini road trip through Iceland. In just one day, you can tick off many of the sights of Snæfellsnes while driving through the remarkable landscape of lava fields and mountains.
Are you going to drive yourself? Then, read this blog about car rental in Iceland.
It depends a bit on how much time you have and whether you want to take longer to explore Snæfellsnes. I have to cover quite a few kilometers in the morning before I reach the peninsula, so I split it up into two half days and spend the night at the Freezer Hostel. More about that later. First, let’s see what you can do and see on Snæfellsnes.
What to see on Snæfellsnes
If you look at the map, I drive clockwise over Snæfellsnes and start at Ytri Tunga Beach. There I follow the road along the bottom towards the tip of the peninsula and then go up along the coast and continue the road along the top. The sights I share in this article are also in that order. I didn’t stop at all the sights. Sometimes, it was due to lack of time, sometimes because there was simply too much snow to see anything at all. I will mention those Snæfellsnes sights here, but unfortunately, without extensive descriptions or photos.
Skipped option: Eldborg crater (Google Maps location). This crater is only 60 meters high, so it is easy to climb and walk around the edge.
Skipped option: Gerduberg basalt cliffs (Google Maps location). Here you will find a kilometer of hexagonal pillars of volcanic igneous rock (basalt).
Seal watching on Ytri Tunga Beach
My very first stop on Snæfellsnes is immediately one of the highlights of the peninsula. Or, at least, I think so. Ytri Tunga Beach is a popular chill spot for seals. You will find two species here: the common and the gray seal. I can’t tell you which ones I saw from a distance, but I saw them!
You seem to have the best chance in the summer months, but in early April during my visit, the seals are also chilling on rocks off the coast. The idea is, of course, that you keep your distance – at least 50 meters. If we all bother the seals, they will leave this area. So, taking binoculars and using a camera with good zoom is not an unnecessary luxury. As you can see, taking photos through binoculars is also possible, but that is a bit fiddly.
Google Maps location
Paid parking
The black Búðakirkja church
There are beautiful churches everywhere in Iceland, but they are usually white with a red roof. The Búðakirkja church is a small black church that has been here since 1848 (but has been renovated in the meantime, of course). There was a church at this exact spot before, but this one from 1703 was officially decommissioned in 1816.
A wealthy widow then wanted to have a new church built after she was visited in a dream by the man who built the first church. The authorities did not give permission, but the king did. And so this Búðakirkja came to be in 1848. It is one of three black churches in all of Iceland. It is close to the sea, and you can walk around it. To be honest, it’s nice for a short photo stop, not an amazing one.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Skipped option: Bjarnarfoss waterfall (Google Maps location). A waterfall of about 80 meters high.
Arnarstapi: statue and coastline
You don’t have to go to Arnarstapi for the Bárður Snæfellsás statue. Bárður is the main character in the Icelandic saga Snæfellsás. He is a giant, a troll, and a human. At the end of the saga, he becomes the patron saint of Snæfell. It is a well-known saga, which is why this black stone statue is in Arnarstapi. It is nice for a quick photo, but not very special.
You come to Arnarstapi for the rugged coastline with the Gatklettur rocks in the shape of an arch as the highlight. The walking path (2.5 km) along the coast leads to the town of Hellnar, but of course, you can also walk a small part of it. It is teeming with screaming birds on the rocks as it’s one of their favorite breeding spots.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Lunch stop: Stapinn in Arnarstapi
I am actually looking for a food truck along the road, but I can’t find one, and my stomach is rumbling. So I end up at Stapinn, which is a good choice for what I want. My best friend and I share fish and chips and fried cheese snacks. We could have made a slightly healthier choice with the soups, but sometimes, you just want to eat greasy food fast.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Snæfellsjökull National Park
By now, you have reached the national park on Snæfellsnes: Snæfellsjökull. The national park is located around the glacier and volcano of the same name. Officially, it is a subglacial volcano… Okay. It’s basically a volcano under a glacier. The highest point of this subglacial volcano is 1446 meters. On very clear days, you can even see it from Reykjavík. The park has various sights, such as the black beach of Djúpalónssandur, the Saxhóll crater, and lighthouses.
The real die-hards can go to the top of the volcano. Please do this under supervision, as it is difficult and tough. Do your research well before you start. This tour is just one of your options.
Skipped option: Vatnshellir cave (Google Maps location). Go underground in a lava tube. Only possible with a tour. You can book it here and it has a reasonable price (for Icelandic standards).
The black beach Djúpalónssandur
Okay, okay, almost all beaches in Iceland are black. So why should you stop at Djúpalónssandur? Firstly, because you are in the area anyway, but mainly because you have a beautiful beach entrance along the rocks, and then you arrive in the bay. The waves crash wildly against the rocks, and you can walk nicely over the black-pebbled beach. Uninhabited and untouched.
You can’t miss the rusted remains of a boat on Djúpalónssandur beach. In 1948, an English fishing boat sank off the coast. The rescue brigade struggled with the bad weather and the rough sea. Fourteen men did not survive, only five lived to tell the tale.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Skipped option: climb the Saxhóll crater (Google Maps location). 300 meters high and accessible by stairs. Much of the lava landscape you see is due to this crater.
Golden beach: Skarðsvík Beach
Because almost all beaches in Iceland are black, this tiny strip of sandy beach is called the ‘golden beach’. I think that’s a bit too much honor. It is such a little beach but in a beautiful environment between black lava rock, stones, and cliffs. The beach is on the route to the Svörtuloft lighthouse. You can easily get to the beach with a 4×4, and a regular rental car will probably do. After Skarðsvík Beach, it gets a bit more challenging…
Google Maps location
Free parking
Looking for the Svörtuloft lighthouse
After the golden beach, there is no paved road anymore, and you still have to drive about four kilometers before you reach the Svörtuloft lighthouse. According to Lonely Planet (buy at Amazon), you can drive this, but according to many Google reviews, you can’t. When we arrive at this part of Snæfellsnes, the daylight is already slowly disappearing, and we find the road quite bad. We throw the drone in the air because it has an extensive range, so maybe we can take a picture without getting a flat tire. But unfortunately, we lose connection, and we try to get the drone back as soon as possible. So, no lighthouse today. This is what we missed:
Lonely church Ingjaldsholskirkja
When we arrive at Ingjaldsholskirkja, we are already out of the national park. It is located between the towns of Rif and Hellissandur. It is a lonely church on a hill. In the summer, purple flowers appear in the fields, making it an extra beautiful sight.
Sometimes, the doors are open, and inside, you can see a painting of a possible visit of Christopher Columbus to Iceland. He may or may not have been there in the winter of 1477/1478. Nobody knows.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Defrosting at The Freezer Hostel
We arrive at The Freezer hostel, freezing. Well, they didn’t choose that name for nothing here in Rif. But luckily, it is undoubtedly not a freezer inside; it is actually lovely and warm.
The hostel is in an industrial area near the harbor of Rif and immediately stands out because of the murals and artwork in front of the door. It doesn’t seem to fit in this setting, and that confusion is what makes it fun. The hostel is also a cultural center where performances are regularly held. The large common room has framed concert posters on display everywhere.
The large living room is full of old-fashioned sofas and chairs where everyone can relax after a long day. There is a small bar that we gratefully use. We have earned a beer after a long day. While I sip my beer, I take in the large space, which is full of posters and murals, musical instruments, games, CDs, a book exchange, and more. The Freezer Hostel attracts a mixed crowd: the alternative vibe appeals to both young and old.
Behind the living room is the large hall where performances take place and where you can play a game of table tennis or table football under the watchful eye of a mannequin. You can’t order food at The Freezer, but there is a (slightly messy) kitchen that most guests gratefully use. So do we.
There are both dormitories and private rooms. There are both dormitories and private rooms. Check them all out on the site. We are staying in the latter, and our room is super comfortable with its own bathroom. The heating is working overtime, but when we enter, that is exactly what we want. The bedding is also wonderfully warm, and I think there is even floor heating – I love it. A beautiful mural of the Northern Lights is painted on the dark walls. Unfortunately, we won’t get to see the actual version tonight, but in theory, you should be able to see it at The Freezer Hostel.
Book directly at The Freezer Hostel or compare the price on Booking first.
Continuation of the mini-road trip Snæfellsnes
Well-rested, we set off the next day. We do see snow at the Freezer Hostel, but we don’t really realize how much snow there actually is. But as soon as we get to the main road where we are allowed to drive 90 and we don’t drive faster than 30, we quickly have to conclude that our sightseeing plans for today are ruined by the snow. I’m not used to driving in the snow, so I find it all quite exciting. But I can’t really see the sights through the snow, so we have to skip a few things.
Skipped option: take a picture of Kirkjufell (Google Maps location). I can’t see it in the snow, but this symmetrical mountaintop is picture-perfect when the weather is better. You can also walk to the top, which takes about 1.5 hours.
Skipped option: see the Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall (Google Maps location). The ultimate photo is the waterfall with the Kirkjufell in the background.
Skipped option: Berserkjahraun (Google Maps location). These must be impressive lava fields, but unfortunately, the access road is inaccessible due to the snow.
The capital of Snæfellsnes: Stykkishólmur
We do reach Stykkishólmur, the capital of Snæfellsnes. We first warm up at Nesbrauð bakery (Google Maps location). It’s simple, not atmospheric, but nice to get off the slippery road for a while.
Stykkishólmur is described everywhere as a cute little town with small art galleries. However, there is little evidence of this on this bleak day in April. The streets are (rightfully) deathly quiet, and almost everything is closed. It is not very inviting. We take a short walk to the lighthouse (Google Maps location), which offers a view of the harbor and the colorful houses of Stykkishólmur.
Then we quickly check out at the futuristic Stykkishólmskirkja (Google Maps location), where we almost get blown away, and then we quickly crawl back into the car. We are clearly there on the wrong day or maybe even in the wrong season. Oh well, that’s a good reason to return one day, right?
More Iceland inspiration?
Useful links for your Iceland trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare more prices, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Guidebooks. I like paper travel guides to flip through, available for sale Amazon and others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Trip, Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? See what Expedia or CheapOair has on offer.
- Yoga retreat or horseback riding vacation. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Iceland or a horseback riding vacation.
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links. If you buy something through these links, I might receive a small commission.
I stayed at The Freezer Hostel by invitation. I have been given complete editorial freedom.
First published: May 2024. The article has been updated since.
