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Latest update: 27 February 2023
I have trouble characterizing Orange Walk in Belize. There is no one word or phrase to describe the city’s character. It’s a place where things that don’t belong together come together. Traditional Mennonites, a marijuana penchant, and a rich Mayan past all have a home in this dry, dusty city.
Time is a relative concept
Orange Walk is the largest city in northern Belize. Yet on the street, it mainly feels like a small town or a large village. They are almost deserted. Especially if I move a little further away from the main square. Like everywhere in Belize, people take their time. The word “hurry” is not in the dictionary. Even if I stroll, I still walk fast for the average Belizean.
Orange Walk: usually a short stop
There is clearly a lack of sights in Orange Walk. Banquitas House of Culture is a small free museum about the city’s history. Most people visit Lamanai (the largest Mayan city in Belize) from Orange Walk and quickly move on. I am a slow traveler (but a fast walker), so I stay a little longer – one of the few people. I hope to better grasp the city, but it remains elusive.
I eat a fry jack at Cafeteria Luis Garcia (Google Maps location). That’s a Belizean breakfast, which is too heavy on my stomach. Deep fried dough filled with cheese, beans, chicken, eggs, you name it. I prefer to eat it later in the day as a snack because it sure is tasty.
After a few hours in Orange Walk, people already recognize me on the street. At first, I find it a bit uncomfortable that people know exactly where I’m staying, but I soon notice that it’s friendly social control. For example, when a drunk man harasses me at the market, a lady resolutely comes to my rescue. The man knows he’s being watched and wanders off.
Stroll around Orange Walk
I walk through the city looking for my favorite souvenir: a license plate. Following directions, I end up at a dilapidated car junkyard. The neighbor starts shouting to the owner to wake up – it’s late in the afternoon. The owner is surprised by my showing up and with my request, but laughingly helps me expand my collection, and I give him two beers to thank him.
Honestly, I enjoy the almost empty streets and the lack of sights. I like not having to do so much. The simplicity that life seems to have here is beautiful. I like the simple shops of local entrepreneurs. All it takes is a pot of paint and a brush to indicate you can go somewhere for furniture or meat.
Mennonites in Orange Walk
Some Mennonites board the bus from Sarteneja to Orange Walk. They look like they don’t belong here, like they come from another century. Their suspenders, long skirts, traditional hats, the language that resembles German and Dutch: it is so different from the colorfully dressed and exuberant Belizean. The villages around Orange Walk, such as Shipyard and Blue Creek, were developed by Mennonites. They came to Belize from Mexico in the 1950s. They regularly visit the city to buy and sell goods. The Mennonites do not use modern means: they don’t have electricity or heavy tools, but that doesn’t mean they’re unfamiliar with them. They repair cars, televisions, and other electrical appliances. Apparently, that is ok in their faith.
Tip! Belize Bus and Travel Guide has the most up-to-date bus information.
Orange Walk Belize is Sugar City
People living in Orange Walk often work in tourism, rum distillation, or the sugar industry. The latter explains the nickname Sugar City. In the past, almost everyone earned money in the sugar industry. When the sugar prices dropped, attention shifted to marijuana. That was a lot more lucrative.
In the 1990s, marijuana production was largely shut down. But people definitely still smoke it on the streets. About 8.5% of the population in Belize uses cannabis (to compare: in the Netherlands it’s 8%). Some of them have part-time jobs as “pharmacists”. As a tourist, you can expect the question ‘do you need anything from my farmacia‘ several times a day. You always have to be careful with things like that abroad. In Belize, since November 2017, it is okay to carry ten grams of cannabis for personal use. No more.
Visit to Lamanai
Orange Walk is the ideal base for people interested in the Maya. The Mayans have lived in the area for thousands of years. In 1849, refugees from the Caste War (when the Maya from Yucatan fought against the Mexican government and the white elite) came to Orange Walk. That, in turn, led to new struggles because they were a different kind of Maya than those who already lived there. Add a few English settlers, and you understand that much blood has been shed. The largest Maya city of Belize (Lamanai) is easily accessible from Orange Walk. You will cruise the Rio Bravo towards Lamanai. Please read the blog about a visit to Lamanai.
Hostel/guest house in Orange Walk
I am staying at Casa Ricky’s, the only budget accommodation in Orange Walk. It’s a simple guest house with excellent wifi. I sleep in one of the rooms upstairs, on the large roof terrace with hammocks. I can use Ricky’s kitchen, and because I’m staying for two nights, I can also do some laundry. Dog Rex is a cuddly one. Ricky is a friendly young guy who clearly goes out of his way to provide his guests a pleasant stay.
Ricky also arranges the tour to Lamanai for a good price. You will be picked up and dropped off at Casa Ricky’s. Very convenient. The only downside to the hostel/guest house is that some rooms are directly above a bar. A rather noisy bar, where the music is loud until late. However, I’m so tired that I don’t hear a thing. Or maybe I have caught the essence of Orange Walk unnoticed: relax!
More Belize travel inspiration?
Useful links for your Belize trip
- Accommodation. All-time favorite is Booking.com. Book hostels via Hostelworld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide and Viator.
- Bus. Book buses in Belize through Busbud, Omio, or 12Go.
- Car rental. My go-to car rental companies are EasyTerra and Sunny Cars as they have all-inclusive / worry-free offers. You could also use Discover Cars to compare prices.
- Flights. Compare all your options! For sure check Momondo, Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Money. Your debit and credit cards may not get accepted everywhere. You could opt for a Revolut card as an additional card when you travel.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Not many Dutch travel companies offer trips to Belize: try Sawadee or Shoestring.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Travel gear. Buy your gear at Bever or Decathlon, or simply at Bol.com.
- Travel guides. I love the practical guidebooks by Lonely Planet. You can buy them at Bol.com and Amazon.
- Yoga retreat. Or, book a lovely yoga retreat in Belize!
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First published: June 2018. The article has been updated since.
