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Latest update: 15 April 2025
Unpredictable weather? Check. Sheep? Check. Green hills? Check. Incomprehensible accent? Absolutely. But that’s just scratching the surface of what Northern Ireland has to offer. So, with two friends, I rent a car to see as much of Northern Ireland as possible in a short time. If you’re looking for an awesome route through Northern Ireland with plenty of nature, you’ve found the right blog.
Northern Irish, Irish, or British?
Northern Ireland is part of the United Kingdom; it doesn’t “belong” to Ireland. You pay in pounds, distances are in miles, and if you’re born there, you’re British. But you can apply for Irish citizenship if at least one of your parents lived in Ireland for 3 of the 4 years directly before your birth. However, if you ask the locals, you’ll get different answers. Some feel British, others Irish, and others proudly claim to be Northern Irish. I’m okay with any answer. 😉
The highlights of Northern Ireland
You could easily plan a two-week vacation to Northern Ireland. There’s an incredible amount of things to do. The country is known for its beautiful nature, Game of Thrones filming locations, Irish whiskey, and the Titanic. The capital of Northern Ireland is Belfast, and you could spend several days there alone.
If you only have a few days, you need to make choices—not my strongest point, haha. We decided to go all-in on nature, so we skipped Belfast, the whiskey, and many other things. But we did visit famous attractions like the Giant’s Causeway, the Dark Hedges, and some less-known natural areas.
The 2-3 day itinerary in brief
Day 0: Arrival in Dublin and overnight in Dromore
Day 1: Coastal route – from Dark Hedges to Giant’s Causeway and more
Day 2: Glens of Antrim and Slemish Mountain
Day 3: Tollymore Forest and back to Dublin
We fly into Dublin and drive to Dromore in the evening. The real road trip doesn’t start until the next morning. On day 3, we still have the morning in Newcastle, but we must return to the airport in the afternoon. In total, we had 2 full days and one morning in Northern Ireland. And surprisingly, you can do quite a lot in that time. So let’s go!
From Ireland to Northern Ireland by car
We pick up our rental car at Dublin Airport. From there, it’s about a 90-minute drive to Dromore. In theory, we could have flown directly to Belfast, but that was significantly more expensive for our travel period. Hence this choice.
If you rent a car in Ireland and want to take it to Northern Ireland, you’ll be crossing a country border and need to pay extra to the car rental company. We booked a car through DiscoverCars with Flizzr and paid an additional €40 ($43) for the border crossing. A waste of money, but it’s necessary.
Another reliable website for car rental is Rentalcars.com. Just make sure you always check the prices and coverage carefully, and you’ll be fine.
And, of course, you drive on the “wrong” side of the road here! It takes some getting used to, especially at the beginning and at roundabouts – you really have to think carefully. But I actually find it quite easy to adjust. Just follow the flow of traffic and check whether your car displays speed in miles or kilometers to avoid fines.
Overnight in Dromore at Lisnacurran Country House
Before heading to bed, we stop for a late dinner at The Hillside (Google Maps location). When we arrive, we walk straight into the bar. The crowd is already pretty tipsy, so we are glad the restaurant is at the back of the establishment. It’s atmospherically lit, and the service was young and efficiently quick. Time for our first Guinness, fish & chips, and a lamb stew!
Then it’s bedtime at the Lisnacurran Country House. What a great find! This small-scale hotel has unique rooms with character-filled details: busy wallpaper, chandeliers, and cozy furnishings – all perfectly matched. For those wanting to relax, you can reserve the hot tub in advance for an hour of bubbling. Check it out on Booking.
Day 1: Coastal route – from Dark Hedges to Giant’s Causeway and more
Yes! The road trip can begin. And we start it with a hearty breakfast at Lisnacurran Country House. The breakfast room feels homey, with old-fashioned chairs and a small stove. Eggs, bacon, or sausage are prepared for you on request.
Off to the Northern Irish coast!
The Dark Hedges – from Game of Thrones
Our first stop is the famous Dark Hedges. The trees were planted around 1775 to impress visitors to Gracehill House. But this impressive beech avenue is now mainly known from Game of Thrones. This beautiful stretch was on screen for a whole 12 seconds, haha. Long enough to attract quite a crowd.
The trees are missing their leaves in winter or early spring, making the effect less dramatic than in the beautiful online photos. Also, some trees have unfortunately been cut down due to disease and storms. So it’s somewhat of a letdown, but I still think a visit is absolutely worth it. Especially when you realize the Dark Hedges might not be around much longer.
Huh? What? Yes, the beech trees are almost 250 years old, which is extremely old for Northern Ireland’s climate. According to experts, the trees are slowly dying. New trees are being planted, but it will take a while before they’re as beautiful as the old ones.
If possible, come early in the morning to take the best photos without too many people. The road is completely pedestrianized; only authorized destination traffic can drive there. It’s not advisable to park your car along the road. It’s not good for nature and causes traffic congestion. A paid parking lot is at the nearby hotel (£5 [$6.25], or free if you order something in the restaurant). From there, it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the Dark Hedges.
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge – rope bridge 30 meters (98 feet) above the rocks
Our next stop is the famous Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. For £15 ($18.75), you can cross the bridge, but you can also take a stroll for free. You’ll just miss the crossing and a small walking area after the bridge. The bridge itself isn’t that long: only 20 meters (65 feet).
At the end of March, we just drive up and buy tickets on the spot. In high season, I absolutely recommend booking a time slot online. The combination of steep cliffs and the wild Atlantic Ocean make this a memorable stop on your Northern Ireland itinerary.
Ballintoy Harbour
A short distance away is Ballintoy Harbour, a small harbor that also served as a filming location for Game of Thrones. There’s an information board that say so, otherwise I really wouldn’t have known.
There are no boats in the harbor, but there are a few caves (full of trash). The main attraction is the rugged sea crashing against the rocks. It’s rainy and windy, so for us, it’s just a quick photo stop. If the weather is better, you can also do kayak tours from here, and hopefully, the little café will be open.
Lunch at Bothy White Park Bay
Are you hungry? Perfect timing. You’re close to Bothy White Park Bay (and not far from the Giant’s Causeway). It turns out to be an extremely popular lunch spot. I get it, it has delicious grilled sandwiches, burgers, and sweets on the menu. You might have to wait a bit for a spot, but it’s worth it.
Good to know! Many attractions on this Northern Ireland itinerary have free public toilets available.
Giant’s Causeway – the most popular attraction
In the afternoon, we visit the highlight of the route: the Giant’s Causeway. You can only park at P1 if you’re also going to the visitor center. Otherwise, you can use P3 (£10 [$12.50]). From there, it’s about a 15-minute walk to the starting point of various walking trails.
The main paths are the blue and red routes, which take you to the famous basalt columns. It’s an easy walk along the road that’s doable for everyone. You can walk this back and forth or continue the route upward. You’ll encounter significant stairs, which are manageable with normal fitness levels. If you prefer to walk the stairs downward, simply walk the trail reverse.
In total, there are 40,000 of these “pillars.” The Giant’s Causeway was formed about 60 million years ago after a volcanic eruption. Now you can walk between and over the basalt columns, right on the coast. I find the Giant’s Causeway smaller than expected. In online photos, it looks like a very large area. And the word “Giant” also creates expectations!
It’s impressive nonetheless, even on a typically rainy Northern Irish day. The seawater is fierce and thunders against the rocks. There are certainly visitors, but fortunately, there’s enough space to wander around. I do think it’s worth continuing the trail upward. You’ll have a beautiful view from above and see some sheep, and if you continue the trail, you’ll simply end up back at P3 again.
Dunluce Castle – or what’s left of it
We follow the coast toward Dunluce Castle. It’s a medieval castle that can still be visited but has lost its glory. It’s mainly outer walls that are still standing. Due to the bad weather and numb hands, we decide to save £6 ($7.50) on admission and view the castle only from a distance. If you walk back a bit from the parking lot to the main road, you still have a pretty good view of the ruins.
Magheracross Viewpoint
The last stop of the day: the Magheracross viewpoint. We want to go there because it should be a top spot for a sunset. But first, it’s way too gray and rainy, and second, we’re way too early for sunset. Oh well… Two viewing platforms offer a good view on the white rocks of Whiterocks Beach. In the distance, Dunluce Castle can also be seen. In the parking lot, there’s a food truck where you can buy coffee and ice cream.
Overnight in Coleraine at ibis Coleraine Riverside
In the evening, we check into the ibis Coleraine Riverside (check on Booking.com). Not the most charming location (situated in a commercial shopping area filled with fast food outlets), but the rooms are neat and spacious. Right next to the hotel, you’ll find The Sandpiper, a restaurant with a varied menu and live music on Friday and Saturday evenings. We do one more Guinness after dinner, but we’re so tired that we hit the sack early. This girls’ trip has turned into a grannies’ trip, hahaha.
Day 2: Glens of Antrim and Slemish Mountain
On the second day, this route takes you via the Antrim Coast and the Glens of Antrim already heading south toward Newcastle. So on day 3, we won’t have to cover too many miles toward the airport. But let’s start with today!
Glenariff Forest Park – Northern Irish waterfalls
After breakfast, we drive to the beautiful Glenariff Forest Park, part of the Glens of Antrim. A “glen” is a valley, by the way. The drive there is an experience in itself: beautiful views, rolling hills, and cute newborn lambs. Love it! So make sure you set your navigation to avoid the direct route and instead choose the smaller roads – the scenic route.
The plan was to start with coffee and cake at the Glenariff Tea House, but it’s still closed when we arrive—and later, when it is open, we don’t find it particularly atmospheric (read: old-fashioned), so we skip it. Luckily, we found North Coffee Shop (Google Maps location), a good alternative. They also have a food truck (or should I call it a coffee truck?) a bit further on (Google Maps location).
But you absolutely shouldn’t miss the waterfall walk! The trail is only 3 kilometers (1.9 miles) long and takes you first downward and, after the waterfalls, back up. The nature here is so lushly green that you almost feel like you’re in the Amazon jungle. There are more trails you can walk, and they’re all neatly laid out and indicated at the parking lot. Parking costs £10 ($12.50), by the way, but on a rainy Sunday in March, there was no control.
Lunch at Halfway House Country Pub
We have reserved a table at the Halfway House Country Pub for lunch, but I think you could also just drop in. It’s an authentic Irish pub with typical pub food and a cozy atmosphere—the perfect place to recover after a morning in nature!
Good to know: as an adult, you can order from the children’s menu too. In the case of Fish ‘n’ Chips, you’ll get a much better deal. I ordered the adult portion and my friend ordered the kids’ portion. The fish is about the same size, slightly fewer fries, no sauce, but it comes with ice cream – which she never actually received, but that’s okay. The weather wasn’t suitable for ice cream anyway. It saves you about 10 pounds ($12.50) per person!
Slemish Mountain – on top of the world
After lunch, we drive to Slemish Mountain for a short but intense hike. Slemish Mountain is also part of the Glens of Antrim and is 437 meters (1,434 feet) high. In the car, we have a discussion about whether Slemish Mountain is a hill or a mountain. As Dutch people, we think it’s a mountain; my travel companion from Slovenia thinks it’s a hill. Although she does have to reconsider a bit during the climb. For her, it’s still a piece of cake; for me, scrambling with a fear of heights is a bit more challenging.
I honestly had expected more of a hiking path, but this is some serious scrambling! Some spots are quite difficult and a bit slippery. In about 30 minutes, you’ll reach the top, where your reward lies: beautiful 360-degree views of the Northern Irish landscape. Wow… very impressive. Now, I just need to figure out how to get safely back down…
Overnight in Newcastle at the Donard Hotel
From Slemish Mountain, it’s about a 90-minute drive to the coastal town of Newcastle. We check into the Donard Hotel. The hotel has clean rooms, but honestly, the interior doesn’t quite match the hip, modern logo on the outside. You can book it here.
We pop into a pub for a Guinness and then look for a place to eat. I notice how many takeout restaurants Newcastle has. Perfect for when you don’t want a long dinner after a long day.
Day 3: Tollymore Forest and back to Dublin
Already the last day of the Northern Ireland road trip. Today we have half a day to do something before we have to drive back to Dublin. So we’re staying in the Newcastle area, which turns out to be a great choice.
Newcastle beach and town
After the somewhat sparse hotel breakfast (sorry Donard Hotel, your staff member was really super nice, but the breakfast with dry scones was meh), we walk along the boulevard of Newcastle. Although the beach isn’t spectacularly beautiful, it’s always nice to get some fresh air. In some places, you have a beautiful view of the bay with the Mourne Mountains behind it. They beckon, but will have to wait until a future visit.
The town itself has a long shopping street with many takeout restaurants and local shops. There are some coffee bars, but the whole is not super attractive. I think it only really comes to life as a coastal town in summer. I can at least recommend Railway Street Cafe (Google Maps location) for a good cup of coffee. This is also where many Northern Irish people quickly grab a coffee to go.
Tollymore Forest Park – into the woods
At a short ten-minute drive from Newcastle’s center, you’re already back in nature: in Tollymore Forest Park. You enter the park under a beautiful gate. We decide that we’ll take a photo on the way back, but the exit turns out to be at a different point. If you want that photo, stop when you enter the park.
Tollymore Forest Park lies at the foot of the Mourne Mountains and is a whopping 630 hectares (1,557 acres) in size. Parking costs £5 ($6.25), and there are various facilities on the grounds. There’s even a campsite here. But we’re here for a short hike and choose the red trail along the river. It’s a delightful forest walk with a hermitage along the way that almost seems to come from a fairy tale. Further along, there are stepping stones in the river that you can cross.
And yes, Tollymore Forest Park also appeared in Game of Thrones. Among other scenes, it was featured in the very first scene of the series. If you want to see all the locations, join the Game of Thrones – Tollymore Forest Trek.
Early lunch at Mauds and Lick
For an early lunch, we drive back to Newcastle. We choose Mauds (Google Maps location), where you can order sandwiches and soup. It’s actually a bit too busy for the staff, so there’s dishware everywhere and quite a wait, but the sandwich is really tasty. It’s not a place to linger for hours, although quite a few elderly people and people with babies seem to think differently. We quickly grab a dessert at Lick Gelato (Google Maps location) and then say goodbye to Northern Ireland. And unfortunately, to each other as well. Time to plan another girls’ trip soon!
Practical travel information
Best time to travel
We visited Northern Ireland in March, which meant fewer tourists but changeable weather. For the most beautiful nature, late spring or summer is ideal, but expect more crowds then.
Flights
You can fly to Belfast or Dublin. For us, flying to Dublin was much more economical. However, you’ll have more miles to cover by car, so it depends on your itinerary whether that’s convenient.
Compare flights at Skyscanner.
Rental car
A rental car is a must! Arrange it through DiscoverCars or Rentalcars.com. Coming from Ireland? Then you’ll need to pay extra to drive your rental car in Northern Ireland.
Our accommodations at a glance
- Lisnacurran Country House (Dromore)
- ibis Coleraine Riverside (Coloraine)
- Donard Hotel (Newcastle)
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