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Latest update: 3 February 2025
Mtskheta is the religious heart of Georgia. The Jvari church and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral are the spiritual highlights. Mtskheta is absolutely worth visiting and is easily accessible from Tbilisi.
How much time do you need in Mtskheta?
You can easily spend half a day visiting Mtskheta. Maybe even a whole day if you plan to have lunch somewhere or do a wine tasting. Just a 30-minute drive from Tbilisi, you’ll find various attractions. And while you’re on your way, make a quick stop at the Chronicles of Georgia monument, as it’s right on the route.
But heads up! There are many more monasteries and churches in Mtskheta than I mention here. So, if that’s your thing, you should definitely set aside a full day for your visit.
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
The Svetiskhoveli Cathedral is enormous and especially impressive due to its sturdy surrounding wall. It dates back to the 11th century and is still in use today. They hold masses here, and Orthodox monks walk around, keeping a watchful eye on tourists. For instance, I start climbing some stairs by the outer wall, which apparently isn’t allowed. The monk gets upset with me but then realizes his brothers left the gate open themselves. Oops! Thankfully, I’m quickly forgiven.
Inside the Mtskheta cathedral, it’s actually quite modest. It’s mostly stone, with some faded paintings on the stone walls, a few paintings, and various memorial stones for royalty buried here.
I visit the Svetiskhoveli cathedral twice in winter because I go there on my own and accidentally end up there again with a tour. Once in the sunshine, once in the rain. In the rain, the cathedral doesn’t attract many visitors. But judging by the many souvenir shops in downtown Mtskheta, you might find yourself among busloads of tourists in peak season.
But the cathedral isn’t just for tourists. Believers love coming here too. Jesus’s mantle is said to be buried under this church. When Jesus was crucified, a Jewish man from Mtskheta was in Jerusalem and took the mantle back with him. His sister took the mantle and died on the spot because she was so overwhelmed by faith. She was buried, but years later, no one knew exactly where. Until a church was built in the 4th century. The builders had trouble raising the central pillar, so many prayers were needed to make it happen. And then, miraculously, the pillar moved itself to the spot where the sister was buried with Jesus’s mantle. A miracle!
Jvari church in Mtskheta
According to my guide, the Jvari church in Mtskheta is like Jerusalem for Georgians. “If you’ve prayed here three times, it equals a visit to Jerusalem,” he tells me. It’s a holy place with an amazing location on top of a mountain. As you drive up, you can see it gleaming from far away. But you must still drive up a 7-mile mountain road to get there. It’s a beautiful ride.
Jvari means cross, and the church is indeed shaped like one. If I’m being totally honest, I don’t find the inside that impressive. There’s no pomp and circumstance here, just a dark space with many steel pillars keeping the structure standing. The walls are ancient, bare stones, and a wooden cross surrounded by flowers stands in the middle. The church has been here since the sixth century. Since then, only the roof has been replaced once, about twenty years ago. Everything else is original.
I’m more impressed by the outside. The orange-red roof, the view over the Aragvi River, and the view of downtown Mtskheta. The entry is free, by the way. At the parking lot, there are some stalls, and of course, there are stray dogs around – this is Georgia, after all. The Jvari church is one of Georgia’s most visited attractions. During high season, it can get pretty crowded.
Iago’s Winery in Mtskheta
From communion wine to real wine! Have you visited the church and cathedral and want something different? Then, head to Iago’s Winery. When I visit Iago’s Winery, I’ve already heard a lot about qvevris and qvevri wines, but I still can’t really picture what they are. Here at Iago’s Winery on the outskirts of Mtskheta, I finally get to see what a qvevri is and what makes it unique.
Like almost all Georgian families, Iago and Marina’s family have always made wine. In 2003, they officially started the family business and had their first harvest. They were the first to get organic certification in all of Georgia and the first to export natural wine in 2006: 600 bottles to Italy. That’s not much, but then again, the winery isn’t that big. In total, they produce about 10,000 bottles per year.
Marina shows me the qvevris. And they really are just earthenware vessels. They’re buried in the ground, where the grapes ferment with their skins, seeds, and stems. The fermentation happens naturally, and the winemaker occasionally needs to stir vigorously to prevent the top from hardening and drying out. If you study Iago’s Winery logo, you’ll see a man stirring in such a qvevri.
There’s a tasting room where I try several wines. Fireplace lit, snacks on the table. Perfect! If you want to visit Iago’s Winery, you need to call or email in advance. Check their website for contact information. And if you want to try Iago’s Winery wines at home, you can. There are several sellers in the Netherlands, so maybe there’s an online shop in your country, too.
Restaurant tip in Mtskheta: KERA restaurant
Among all the souvenir stalls, I find it pretty challenging to find a nice place to eat in Mtskheta. But if you venture down some side streets, you’ll hopefully end up at KERA restaurant. Located by the water with a lovely interior. You’ll find great Georgian dishes here and a large barbecue. Definitely order some pkhali. I love these walnut and vegetable balls, both for their taste AND the colorful plate they make. The fish here is also excellent. Due to its location, it’s a bit pricier than most Georgian restaurants, but hey… you’re on vacation!
How can you best visit Mtskheta?
You can easily visit Mtskheta independently. That’s what I did. Just rent a car (I rented at Sunny Cars, but also see if Discover Cars or Rentalcars.com offers a better deal). There’s a parking lot at the Jvari church, and in downtown Mtskheta, you can find paid parking here.
If you prefer to go with a guide, you can choose from various day tours from Tbilisi to Mtskheta. Check your options on GetYourGuide and Viator. Almost all tours make the same stops, but some are more extensive, with extra stops at places like Ananuri or Gori. So it’s worth comparing.
Another option is to go with a private driver to Mtskheta. If you’re traveling with two or more people, I think this is an excellent option because it’s very affordable. Sometimes, it’s even cheaper than paying for a tour for four people, for example. With GoTrip, you can easily add your own stops and book a driver. You can find a suggested route via GoTrip here.
More Georgia travel inspiration?
Useful links for your Georgia trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook, and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare prices and insurance coverage, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com. In Georgia, a private transfer or tour with a private driver is often very affordable. Use GoTrip for this.
- Reading tip. If you like reading, I recommend buying this fantastic book: The Eighth Life (for Brilka). It is about generations of women living and suffering in Georgia. More than 1000 pages, so get cozy and comfortable!
- Travel guides. I like paper travel guides to browse through, for sale at Amazon, among others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train and Bus Travel by train or bus through Georgia with Busbud, 12Go, or Omio.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Start your search at Expedia or CheapOair.
- Yoga retreat. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Georgia.
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