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Latest update: 23 June 2025
Madaba is called Jordan’s mosaic city for good reason. Everywhere you look, you’ll find these ancient artworks – from church floors to workshops where artisans still use age-old techniques. But there’s so much more to discover in this charming town. From impressive views at Mount Nebo to a wonderfully relaxed coffee shop and a really cool farm-to-table experience. Here’s everything you need to know about Madaba!
Arriving in the mosaic city of Madaba
The town of Madaba is about 30 kilometers (19 miles) from Amman. You’ll likely follow the King’s Highway and make Madaba at least a stop on your Jordan route. I even stay two nights because I arrive in town late in the evening.
After Amman, Madaba is quite a relief when it comes to crowds and traffic. The tourist heart of the town is even partly car-free. I do notice immediately that I stand out more here than in Amman. My best friend and I are both blonde, and kids especially find that pretty interesting. A few dare to talk to us, but otherwise, it’s mainly staring and looking away when caught.
We tour Jordan independently with a rental car, so we explore the city on our own. We rented from DiscoverCars this time, but Rentalcars.com also has a good comparison tool.
If you are short on time, you can also do a day trip from Amman. Here are your options.
The sights of Madaba
In 746, Jordan experienced a massive earthquake that also hit Madaba. Only in 1880 did the city welcome residents again, and these Christians discovered the first mosaics in 1896. From then on, many excavations follow, even now. The big draw of Madaba is the mosaics. The Madaba Map is the most important sight in the town. But there’s more to see.
Madaba Heritage Trail: start here!
Start your visit at the tourism office where the Madaba Heritage Trail begins. Here you will find two small exhibit halls and friendly staff members who will explain to you what can be seen on the trail. Quite honestly, Madaba is so small that you’ll almost naturally encounter all the sights, but it’s nice to get some direction. It sounds like it’s going to be quite a hike, but the Madaba Heritage Trail is only two kilometers long. Pretty doable, I’d say!
Google Maps location Madaba Heritage Trail starting point
The famous Madaba Map
The Madaba Map is a mosaic map dating back to around 560 AD, and it’s the oldest known map of the Holy Land. The mosaic is unfortunately no longer complete, but parts are well-preserved. You can admire the Madaba Map in the Greek Orthodox church of St. George.
Only they are doing major work on the church during my visit. So the map on the floor is barely visible and all decorations have been removed from the church. It makes absolutely no impression on me. Of course, I still have to pay the full entrance fee. Fortunately, it’s only 1 JOD ($1.40).
The John the Baptist church of Madaba
Since St. George’s Church is undergoing full renovation, I find the John the Baptist Church (also known as Saint John the Baptist) much more interesting. Especially because you can climb the tower. The stairs are pretty narrow, so watch out with your backpack! There’s a service going on in the church during my visit, so I skip that part of the complex.
I do explore the underground passages. These are part of the Acropolis Museum, but the church and museum actually flow into each other. The tunnel system dates back to Roman times, and you’ll even find a well that’s more than 3,000 years old. The entrance here is also only 1 JOD ($1.40) (in 2025).
King Hussein Mosque
By now, I’ve seen two churches in Madaba; it’s time for a mosque. In this town both exist side by side, and people of different religions get along peacefully. I find the King Hussein Mosque prettier than the Blue Mosque in Amman. A Jordanian man takes us inside to explain Islam, emphasizing that wars are never fought in the name of Allah. People who claim that are lying, he says. I find it nice to talk briefly with this man and notice his pain and frustration about the image that Islam has. It’s beautiful that he takes the trouble to share his worldview with strangers. I wonder whether I should give him a tip, but before I figure it out, he’s already disappeared.
Archaeological parks (or: open-air museums)
Madaba has no fewer than two archaeological parks. I don’t find the word ‘park’ very well chosen, because these two open-air museums aren’t that big either. Open-air museums, yes, because they’re mainly excavations of mosaics that are now well protected.
Archaeological park 1
The most important building of the first archaeological park is the Hippolytes Hall. This hall was once part of a Byzantine house that was built on top of a Roman hall. The hall owes its name to the floor mosaic that depicts the Greek tragedy Hippolytos. If you’re thinking: Byzantines, Hippolytos, uh, who, what, where? No problem, there are information boards everywhere with more explanation. And you can also perfectly admire the mosaics without this background knowledge, I can tell you from experience. You can enter for free with your Jordan Pass.
Archaeological park 2 with Burnt Palace
In the second archaeological park of Madaba, you’ll also find ‘the Burnt Palace.’ In Byzantine times (6th and 7th century), this was probably the first private building. It was rediscovered in 1905 when a mosaic sidewalk emerged from under a thick layer of ash and coal. At that time, they believed it was the remains of a church, but further excavations in 1985 revealed that it was actually a burned-out palace.
You can also visit this place for free with your Jordan Pass, and there are plenty of information signs with English explanations.
Tip! At many sights in Jordan, people give you unsolicited explanations or a kind of tour. They usually don’t do this out of the goodness of their hearts but because they want a tip. Be clear with them whether you like that or not.
Madaba Museum
More mosaics! This time, in combination with historic houses, and in these houses you’ll find various objects like ancient pots, jewelry, and household items. And here, too, it’s mainly the mosaics that attract visitors. The mosaics here are well-preserved, and some still retain a lot of color. This museum is also free with your Jordan Pass.
Making (and buying) mosaics at Najd
Want to see how mosaics are made? At Najd, you can see the craft in action. They show you both the old and new techniques and if you like it, you can place a few stones yourself. With the old method, the stones are first glued to linen and then flipped over. With the new method, they’re placed directly on the surface. You can also see the artisans at work in other shops, so if they are taking a break at Najd, you can probably find a demonstration somewhere else.
A maker spends about 10 days on a design for a 30 cm (12 inch) diameter circle. That explains why mosaics are so expensive: even for a simple 10×10 cm (4×4 inch) piece, you pay around 20 dinars ($28) and for 30×30 cm (12×12 inches), quickly towards 80-100 dinars ($112-140). If you want to take a mosaic home as a souvenir, then Madaba is the place to buy something.
Carob House Farm tour
The Carob House is a luxury restaurant in Madaba with a farm-to-table concept. And you can visit that farm. I can’t recommend it enough, it’s genuinely one of the most fun and unique things to do in Madaba. A bit outside the center lies the Carob Farm of owner Rakan. Since the COVID-19 pandemic, he has fully committed himself to regenerative agriculture on his 2-hectare (5-acre) piece of land.
We drive up and are welcomed with a cup of tea. Rakan is especially curious about how the Dutch view agriculture. He wants to learn and share knowledge. And he shares a great deal of knowledge. We walk for almost 2 hours across his terrain, closely followed by his dogs and cat, who thinks he’s a dog. It’s super interesting to hear and see how he works the land and what challenges he faces.
At the Carob Farm, a forest is being planted for shade and soil protection, and food waste from restaurants is processed into compost. We learn about permaculture, natural laws, and more.
With a head full of inspiration, we then sit down at the Carob House restaurant in the center of Madaba for a 5-course dinner in the courtyard. It’s not inexpensive, but it’s a truly special experience. Want to experience it, too? You can find more info on the website.
Mount Nebo: where Moses saw the Promised Land
Mount Nebo is actually a must-see if you’re near Madaba. This is the place where Moses, according to the Bible, looked out over the Promised Land before dying here at 120 years old (?!?). The spot where the Nehushtan statue (copper or bronze snake) stands is supposed to be where Moses first saw the Promised Land.
The view is magnificent. On a clear day, you can see the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea, and even Jerusalem in the distance. On the mountain, there’s also a small church with mosaics.
From Madaba, it’s a 10 to 15-minute drive to Mount Nebo. There’s only limited parking along the road, so I wonder how they handle it during high season. But, well, I have a spot today. We arrive half an hour before closing time, which is actually perfect crowd-wise, but we do have to move at a faster pace to see everything. They really close things right on time, so the warning we get when buying our ticket (3 JOD, $4.20, 2025) isn’t for nothing.
Eating and drinking in Madaba
Madaba has plenty of nice spots to refuel between all the sights. From relaxed coffee shops to restaurants with authentic Jordanian dishes – here you’ll find something tasty for every moment of the day.
Ayola Cafe
The Ayola Café is fine for a quick bite. I personally don’t find it to be an atmospheric restaurant, and it’s quite a popular spot for tourists. Probably also because I’m there on a quiet day and many other restaurants are closed. The food is good, though, and if you feel like it, you can also order a beer. We try a vegetable fukharat for the first time here. That’s a dish in an earthenware bowl with bread as a ‘lid.’ Very tasty.
Kawon Once Upon a Time: Ibiza vibes in Jordan
It’s probably because I have a trip to Ibiza planned right after Jordan, but I get total Ibiza vibes at Kawon Once Upon A Time. It’s a combination of a bookstore and a coffee bar with a wonderfully large and fantastically decorated garden. I find it wonderfully relaxed there and could easily hang around for a whole afternoon – but yes, I do really want to see the sights of Madaba too.
Kawon Once Upon a Time serves delicious coffee (also with oat milk), various small dishes, and you can buy books (even Dutch ones) and records there. The café is a bit pricier than a coffee at a random place, but then you get something for it, right? Plus point: relaxed cats are walking around that are well cared for.
Fokar & Bhar Restaurant
On the tourist street with shops and restaurants, I choose Fokar & Bhar for lunch. I’m not usually into restaurants with pictures on the menu, but in Jordan, I find it quite handy. Fokar & Bhar serves local dishes in generous portions. The service is fast and friendly, and we enjoy our spot on the street side. Want advice on what to order? The chicken mansaf (THE dish of Jordan) is very tasty, and the salads are also fresh and crisp.
Google Maps location
Abu Jabber Sweet
For those with a sweet tooth as a snack or as dessert after dinner: go to Abu Jabber Sweet. You find this kind of place throughout Jordan. There are large counters with big trays full of sweets. The most popular is knafeh. Knafeh (also called kanafeh or künefe) is a dessert made from white cheese and thin, stringy dough layers that look like angel hair, topped with sweet syrup. Super sweet, very delicious. One portion is basically enough to share between two people.
Carob House
I already told you about my experience on the Carob House farm. Of course, you don’t necessarily have to do the tour to enjoy the food. Carob House is a luxury restaurant with a beautiful courtyard. I feel those Ibiza vibes again! It also looks fancy inside, so on colder days, you can perfectly dine here too. The menu features traditional Jordanian dishes with a modern twist.
The table next to us has the service staff struggling a bit with the order because everything gets lost in translation. At our table, however, everything runs smoothly and we enjoy the beautiful dishes. Our tour includes a five-course menu and that’s way too much food, but of course we still make some room for a new dish on the menu: olive oil ice cream. A bit weird but tasty.
Staying overnight in Madaba: Black Iris Hotel
For an overnight stay in Madaba, I can recommend the Black Iris Hotel. It’s simple but immaculate, and they have free parking next to the hotel – always nice when you’re traveling with a rental car. From the Black Iris Hotel, you can easily walk into the center. The breakfast is extensive and typically Arabic. The restaurant on the ground floor is also suitable for an evening meal, offering both outdoor and indoor seating options.
You can book the hotel and compare prices at Booking and Agoda.
FAQ about Madaba
Madaba is THE mosaic city of Jordan. It is literally everywhere, and the highlight is the Madaba Map. You’ll find it in St. George’s Greek Orthodox Church.
Count on one full day of sightseeing in Madaba. On the way from Amman to Madaba, I already stop at Mount Nebo in the late afternoon, and the next day I see the sights of Madaba and do the Carob Farm tour. I therefore stay two nights in Madaba.
You can also do a day tour from Amman.
More Jordan inspiration
Useful links for your Jordan trip
- Accommodation. Booking.com is always useful, but be sure to compare prices. For example, through Trivago and Trip. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. “Free” walking tours book with Freetour or GuruWalk.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Compare your options at Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Amazon.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? You could check out Expedia or CheapOair.
- Flights. Compare all your options! At least check Expedia, Kiwi and Trip.
- Yoga retreat. Or: go for a yoga retreat in Jordan.
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