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Latest update: 27 February 2023
At first, I think they are people. That some people somewhere in the distance make strange noises. But the sound lasts too long for a joke. It’s a continuous, deep, loud roar. It’s not people, I realize. I am surrounded by howler monkeys in the jungle of the Mayan city of Lamanai. So cool! Want to experience it too? I’ll explain what to expect and how to get there.
The howler monkeys of Lamanai
Howler monkeys roar to let others know their location. It’s how the male howler monkeys keep the group together and ensure they don’t get close to other groups. The noise starts as soon as I set foot ashore at Lamanai (Lamanai Archaeological Reserve) and continues until I board the boat back to Orange Walk. Even at a distance, I can still hear the impressive sound. The guide says such a roar can be heard up to 3 to 5 kilometers in the area. I also hear them when standing on top of the highest ruin (and anxiously grabbing everything for a bit of grip because of my fear of heights). And looking out over the endless jungle on top of El Castillo is impressive, especially with the sound effects.
How to visit Lamanai – by tour probably
Lamanai is the most impressive Mayan site in northern Belize. A lot of work and money has been put into the restoration and maintenance of the Mayan ruins. The trails are well maintained, and ample picnic lunch facilities exist. Yet most people come here with a tour, including me. The Lamanai ruins are difficult to reach by public transport. The best way to get there is by boat from Orange Walk or a day trip from Belize City.
Boat trip on the New River
The boat trip is a way to get from A to B and allows me to admire the surroundings. We navigate down the New River, an almost stagnant river. The guide regularly points out animals: crocodiles, monkeys, and birds. Sometimes we can get very close, but sometimes we go so fast that stopping for pictures is not an option. We only slow down when we pass a village.
We also pass the last operating sugar factory in the country and a small Mennonite community. The boat trip quickly takes 1.5 hours, and in that time, I see all types of weather passing by. One minute the sun is burning on my skin; the next, I’m hiding under a piece of tarp from a terrible downpour. On the way back, there is a continuous supply of rum punch to make the passengers forget that we are soaking wet.
The crocodiles of Lamanai
I discover Lamanai under the guidance of a pretty loud guide. Perhaps he was inspired by the volume of howler monkeys? We look at several temples, and he highlights the most exciting elements, like the different images of crocodiles. Lamanai means submerged crocodile. Hence the many references.
Finally, we visit El Castillo, where we can climb (see the first video). The guide pretends this is quite an undertaking, which almost makes me not even want to try. Yet I peek around the corner and then discover a sturdy staircase leading to the top. Neatly landscaped and neatly maintained. I can definitely handle this.
The best price for your Lamanai tour
The tour to Lamanai is a bit expensive. You can book a day trip from Belize City or start off in Orange Walk. In Orange Walk, you can book it from BZ $150 per person. That’s 75 US dollars. But you can save US $30! How? Well, book your stay at Casa Ricky’s in Orange Walk. Ricky can arrange the entire Lamanai tour, including transportation to and from the hostel/guest house and picnic lunch with an unlimited supply of rum punch for just $45. This is the best deal I’ve seen in Orange Walk. And please spend the money you saved on mosquito repellent. Lamanai is not only popular among tourists but also among mosquitoes.
More Belize travel inspiration?
Useful links for your Belize trip
- Accommodation. All-time favorite is Booking.com. Book hostels via Hostelworld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide and Viator.
- Bus. Book buses in Belize through Busbud, Omio, or 12Go.
- Car rental. My go-to car rental companies are EasyTerra and Sunny Cars as they have all-inclusive / worry-free offers. You could also use Discover Cars to compare prices.
- Flights. Compare all your options! For sure check Momondo, Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Money. Your debit and credit cards may not get accepted everywhere. You could opt for a Revolut card as an additional card when you travel.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Not many Dutch travel companies offer trips to Belize: try Sawadee or Shoestring.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Travel gear. Buy your gear at Bever or Decathlon, or simply at Bol.com.
- Travel guides. I love the practical guidebooks by Lonely Planet. You can buy them at Bol.com and Amazon.
- Yoga retreat. Or, book a lovely yoga retreat in Belize!
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First published: June 2018. Updated since.
