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Latest update: 19 June 2024
Sweat, lots of sweat. So much sweat that I sweat my sunscreen off. Mosquitos chase me through the overgrown jungle. Plant thorns leave scratches on my arms and legs. A nice walking tour of Koh Phangan turns out to be quite challenging. But wow, it’s a beautiful trek from Haad Rin to Haad Yuan!
How do you get to Haad Yuan?
Haad Yuan beach on Koh Phangan is only accessible by boat or foot. Very occasionally by car, but only if the roads are good enough (check with your accommodation!). I opt for the walk (at least on the way there) and do the trek from Haad Rin to Haad Yuan.
Ready, set, go… Haad Rin
Haad Rin is the party spot of Koh Phangan. It’s where the Full Moon parties take place. Koh Phangan got its party reputation mainly from Haad Rin. Haad Rin is a normal tourist spot if there is no Full Moon or Half Moon Party. Many souvenir shops and many restaurants. The only thing that betrays that things sometimes go wild here are the decorations on the streets towards the beach and the neon shirts with Full Moon logos that you can buy everywhere.
I don’t think Haad Rin is a very charming place. Although, I must admit that its beach is beautiful on a regular weekday. I’ve been in Koh Phangan for over five weeks and only head to Haad Rin once. And not even for a party! I’m not going to work up a sweat dancing, but walking.
Start of the Haad Rin – Haad Yuan mountain trail
The starting point of the Haad Rin-Haad Yuan hiking tour is difficult to find. The hiking trail starts behind the Palita Lodge. With your back to the 7-Eleven, walk a little to the right and turn left at the large green signage above the street that says “Haad Rin Beach.” You will pass a small parking lot with many car tires. Next, walk towards the entrance of the Palita Lodge and turn left at the wall around the corner. This is the start of your trek! Check Google Maps here. At first, it is a small path that leads you up past some houses, like you’re walking through someone’s garden.
Some arrows have been drawn along the entire route so that you know you are still headed in the right direction. Some of the directions are a bit clearer than others…
Hiking from Haad Rin to Haad Yuan
The Haad Rin to Haad Yuan hike may not be that strenuous in distance (about 4 kilometers long), but it is quite a climb. For sure, the first part is scrambling, scrambling, and scrambling. Within ten minutes, I am already soaked. On paper, the trek should take about an hour to 1.5 hours. Instead, it takes me about two hours, partly because of a wrong turn halfway through. If you doubt whether you should cross the small river at a large stone: the answer is yes.
The environment is exceptionally green: so beautiful! Remember your mosquito repellent, sunscreen, and liters of water, by the way. There is nothing for sale along the way.
View over Haad Yuan
There is a viewpoint on the trail with a breathtaking view of Haad Yuan Beach. This is where I realize how high I have already climbed. This trek is not for the faint-hearted. Hiking boots are really not a luxury either because some parts are densely overgrown; sometimes, I have to pull myself up on branches, and sometimes, I cling to a tree for stability. The last part is descending, with a lot of loose sand. When a barefoot hippie towards the end overtakes me, I can’t help but doubt myself and be disappointed in my fitness level. But, I tell myself, this man does this every day.
Haad Yuan Beach
The final destination is Haad Yuan beach. This is a thin strip of beach with a few restaurants. You can get a simple breakfast at Big Blue, the first on your left. I advise you to follow the wooden jetties on the left and have something to eat or drink at the bar above. This is Bamboo Hut’s restaurant. The view is phenomenal.
Revelers on Haad Yuan
There is often a party in Guys Bar on Fridays and parties in Eden Garden, usually on Saturdays. I arrive at Haad Yuan late Sunday morning, and die-hard revelers are still at it. I had hoped to dip in the water and chill out a bit, but I feel out of place among the drunken revelers.
Tip! Take cash; you cannot pay with a debit or credit card on Haad Yuan.
Boat trip between Haad Yuan and Haad Rin
After a drink and a snack, my best friend and I take the boat back to Haad Rin. We pay 400 baht per person for that trip. Ridiculously expensive. The price depends on how many people want to come along and with which leg the captain got out of bed that day. Count on 150 to 400 baht. The idea is that the men and the captain push the boat into the water so we can leave. However, the men who sail with us are so drunk that they push the boat in the wrong direction. Thanks, guys.
The boat trip is quite rough: the boat hits the water hard, and the waves are enormous. I’m almost starting to think I should have returned by foot. What a relief to be safely ashore again. The boat drops me off at Haad Rin Pier. That’s on the other side of town. So if you have parked the scooter at the start of the walk, you still have to walk a bit. But hey, after the Haad Rin – Haad Yuan trek, you can still handle those few extra meters!
More Thailand inspiration
Useful links for your Thailand trip
- Accommodation. All-time favorite: Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide and Viator. Try WithLocals for experiences with Thai residents. Book your ‘free’ walking tours with Freetour.com or GuruWalk, and try bike tours with Baja Bikes.
- Attractions and museums. Interested in a 5% discount on museums and other attractions? Use this discount code at Tiqets: KIMOPREIS22
- Car rental. If you want to compare prices, check out Discover Cars or Rental Cars.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Guidebooks. I love paper guidebooks to flip through. Buy them at Amazon.
- Money. Your debit and credit cards may not get accepted everywhere. You could opt for a Revolut card as an additional card when you travel.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Maybe Expedia or CheapOair has a good option.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train, bus or boat. Travel by bus, train or boat in Thailand with Busbud, 12Go or Omio.
- Yoga retreat. Or maybe treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Thailand.
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First published: April 2019. Updated since.
