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Latest update: 19 June 2025
Jerash is sometimes referred to as the Pompeii of the Middle East. I had no idea. I hadn’t expected any Roman ruins in Jordan at all, and now it turns out they’re among the most beautiful outside Italy. Here’s everything you need to know to visit Jerash on your own.
A day trip to Jerash
I’m in Jordan for a total of two weeks, and I have to make some choices. Always tough, but I decided to mostly skip the northern part of the country. But from Amman, it’s only about an hour to the Roman ruins of Jerash. So I can easily visit on a day trip.
Before I go to Jerash, I read online that people spend anywhere from three hours to a full day there. In my mind, Jerash grows into this enormous mega-complex where you could easily get lost. The reality? Thankfully, it’s a bit smaller than expected but still impressively large enough to keep you busy for a few hours.
Roman ruins in urban chaos
The location of the ruins is somewhat surreal: right next to a busy road full of urban development. Besides the ancient Roman city, Jerash is also just a normal inhabited city, and these two completely different worlds border each other directly.
Evidence suggests that Jerash existed in Neolithic times (approximately 10,000 to 2,000 years before Christ). Still, its golden age is generally considered to have begun around 64 BC. There was serious trading, building, and living going on. The wealth naturally attracted enemies, too, so Jerash was attacked and conquered by various forces (Persians, Muslims). The final blow to the city was a massive earthquake in 747 AD. That’s when the city fell into complete ruin.
But don’t think you can only see piles of old stones in Jerash. Definitely not. There’s still a surprising amount that’s well-preserved. Since the early 19th century, the city has undergone a rediscovery, accompanied by serious preservation and restoration work. Jerash is known as one of the most beautiful places outside Italy, where you can see Roman ruins.
Jerash: tickets, Jordan Pass, and guides
At the entrance of the visitor center, you need to buy your ticket or show your Jordan Pass. With the Jordan Pass, you can enter for free. Otherwise, you pay 10 JOD as a tourist (2025). If you find it interesting to discover the Roman ruins of Jerash with a guide, you can arrange this on the spot as well. The guides speak various languages (including English, French, and German). I went exploring on my own, so I didn’t ask about prices.
You can also book a tour from Amman. Then you have transportation and a guide all arranged. You’ll find various options at Viator and GetYourGuide.
But as far as I’m concerned, you can easily go on your own because you can basically follow the paths and walk a loop through the temple complex to see everything. The guide obviously adds value if you find it interesting to gain a deeper historical background.
A good start: Hadrian’s Arch and Hippodrome
From the free parking lot (Google Maps location) at the visitor center, I walk into the Roman temple complex via Hadrian’s Arch (Google Maps location), skillfully trying to avoid all the vendors. What an entrance! Hadrian was a Roman emperor between 117 and 138 AD. Besides the entrance gate named after him, you’ll also immediately find the hippodrome (Google Maps location), where thousands of people once came to watch chariot races.
Then, it’s still a bit of a walk to the actual entrance of Jerash (Google Maps location). I read online that some people find this stretch so long that they think they’ve seen everything and turn back. That seems really weird to me. It’s only a five-minute walk, maybe a bit more on a really hot day, so that seems doable.
Tip! In Jordan, the weekend is on Friday and Saturday. That’s when many Jordanians also take trips. If it fits your schedule, try to avoid those days and visit Jerash on a quieter day.
A route full of theaters, temples, and more
After the entrance, where you need to show your ticket, you walk under the south gate and end up at the Oval Plaza or Oval Forum (Google Maps location). This is an enormous square partly surrounded by immense pillars. These are still the original pillars, admittedly hoisted back up, but they’re really authentic.
If you walk up to the left here, you’ll reach the Temple of Zeus (Google Maps location), where you have a beautiful view of the Oval Plaza (Google Maps location).
Just behind that is the Southern Theatre (Google Maps location), where as many as 3,000 to 5,000 people could enjoy performances. And still do! Every summer, there is the Jerash Festival of Culture & Arts, featuring poetry, opera, concerts, theater, and more.
My best friend and I then descend back to the Cardo Maximus (Google Maps location), which is the road that leads from the Oval Forum to the north entrance. The first part is especially beautiful because of the pillars and the ruins of the cathedral (Google Maps location) and the Nymphaeum (Google Maps location). The latter is a monument to nymphs – here in Jerash it’s a fountain..
The cathedral doesn’t date from Roman times but was built later, around the 4th or 5th century. Many Christians lived in Jerash by that time. Behind the cathedral are also a few other churches, but they’re less impressive. To date, fifteen churches have been identified in Jerash.
We climb the stairs at the cathedral and then walk around the back via the Temple of Artemis (Google Maps location) to North Theatre (Google Maps location). The northern theater is much smaller than the southern one, but just as beautiful. We then take the Cardo Maximus all the way back to the beginning from the North Gate (Google Maps location).
What MUST you see in Jerash?
Take a leisurely walk around Jerash. You’re walking on old Roman streets, between columns and past amphitheaters. It’s like an open-air museum where you can actually touch and even climb everything.
As far as I’m concerned, there are a few highlights you can’t miss in Jerash. Those are the theaters (South Theatre and North Theatre) and the Cardo Maximus. But honestly, with 2 to 3 hours, you can see everything.
What you DON’T need to see in Jerash
Sometimes there’s a performance in the South Theatre. While I carefully climb down from the upper seating area (with imagined danger to my own life, hello fear of heights!), a handful of tourists take their seats for what turns out to be a performance. Spoiler alert: totally not worth it. A few men play bagpipes for maybe two minutes – and badly too! And then they have the nerve to ask for a tip.
Bagpipes? In Jordan? Yes, really. They ended up here when the British arrived in the twenties to establish the army, complete with their Scottish musical traditions. And even though the British left long ago, Jordanians have been playing them for almost a hundred years now in military bands and regular parties. Learned something today! 😉
Good to know when visiting Jerash
Jerash isn’t “finished” yet: there are still excavations going on, and research is still in full swing. So, there’s a good chance you’ll encounter an excavator or crane. That’s a shame for your photo, but that’s just how it is.
There are various restrooms on the grounds. One right at the parking lot in the building with all the souvenir stalls, and another at the entrance where you need to show your ticket or Jordan Pass.
Vendors have set up their wares in various places, both in the building at the parking lot and at random spots near the ruins. They definitely try to sell you stuff, but they stay friendly. And pay attention when people offer to take your photo. Some have set up a nice spot so you can take a stylish photo – you should definitely give a tip for that. If they’re helping you find the right angle, that’s not necessarily required. Especially not if you didn’t ask for it.
We also spotted water vendors, and there’s an eating place, but it doesn’t look very appealing. After our visit, we walk to the main road, where there are a few simple restaurants. At Cheesy Grill (Google Maps location), we eat decent shawarma. Nothing special, but it’s totally fine for a quick lunch.
FAQ
Try to avoid weekends (Friday and Saturday) and make sure you arrive early. As for seasons, you can visit Jerash year-round, but be aware that it can get quite cold in winter and extremely hot in summer. I visit in early May when the temperature is a lovely 68°F (20°C).
I recommend setting aside three hours for your visit. That gives you time to walk around leisurely and see everything. Of course, you can stay much longer if you’re really interested in Roman history. Still, for the average visitor, three hours is plenty.
No, you can visit Jerash just fine without a guide. There are guides available at the entrance. It’s up to you whether you want to use them. You definitely don’t need to worry about getting lost – the guide is purely for background information.
Everything you need is there: restrooms, food, water, and souvenirs.
There’s a free parking lot at the visitor center. Please don’t set your GPS for the visitor center itself, but specifically for the parking lot: Google Maps location.
It depends on your day schedule, but it’s definitely possible. I leave Amman early, visit Jerash, and then drive on to Ajloun Castle before ending up in Madaba via Mount Nebo.
More Jordan inspiration
Useful links for your Jordan trip
- Accommodation. Booking.com is always useful, but be sure to compare prices. For example, through Trivago and Trip. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. “Free” walking tours book with Freetour or GuruWalk.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Compare your options at Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Amazon.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? You could check out Expedia or CheapOair.
- Flights. Compare all your options! At least check Expedia, Kiwi and Trip.
- Yoga retreat. Or: go for a yoga retreat in Jordan.
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