Latest update: 20 December 2024
When you say Iceland, you say Golden Circle. This ‘golden route’ takes you to many highlights of Iceland in a short amount of time. And yes, it is very touristy, but who cares.. Ik neem je graag mee langs de Golden Circle route, maar voeg daar wel een paar extraatjes aan toe.
Unprecedentedly popular: the Golden Circle
Almost everyone who goes to Iceland ‘does’ the Golden Circle. It is the most popular car route in Iceland because you can see a lot within a short distance of Reykjavík. So it is also perfect if you only have a few days in Iceland. The Golden Circle is a perfect introduction to all the beauty Iceland offers. In a few hours, I see geysers, waterfalls, and Iceland’s most famous church. Along the route, I admire snow-capped mountains, untouched nature, and meadows with Icelanders – the horses, I mean.
Rent a car (read the tips for renting a car in Iceland) and drive the Golden Circle route yourself, or let yourself be driven around and book a tour. Most tours stop at Gullfoss, Þingvellir and Geysir. If time allows, more sights are added.
Driving the Golden Circle route yourself
The Golden Circle is an easy car route you can easily drive. Most people plan a whole day for it. That is enough time for all the ‘standard’ stops. There are five: Þingvellir, Geysir/Strokkur geysers, the waterfalls Gullfoss and Faxafoss, and the Kerið crater lake. I start the Golden Circle halfway through the day and divide the full tour over two half days. That is also necessary if you want to do all the extra stops I mention in this article.
You do not need to rent a 4×4 car for the Golden Circle. But if you are going to discover more of Iceland, I do recommend it. Compare prices at DiscoverCars and Rentalcars.com.
The Golden Circle route
I have plotted the Golden Circle route for you in Google Maps. Click on it and send it to your phone. Please note: I have not included the “unofficial” stops, such as the wine bar and the Hrunalaug Hot Spring. I leave it entirely up to you whether you want to extend the Golden Circle route. I’ve listed only the most important stops.
I start directly from the airport and drive to the Golden Circle. My first stop is the Þingvellir national park, and then I drive clockwise. The sights mentioned in this article are also in this order.
Stop 1: Þingvellir National Park
My idea of the Þingvellir National Park is grander and wilder than reality. Don’t get me wrong: it is a beautiful park. Only I thought I could enjoy myself there for a few hours, but you don’t need that long. You’ll have completed your walk in the area and seen everything in about an hour. Or at least: you have seen the part that you visit during the Golden Circle stop. Because you can hike longer if you want. The lake is the largest lake in Iceland. You could also go horse riding or snorkeling in Silfra. So there is enough to do to keep you entertained longer, but then you have to take more time for your Golden Circle route.
There are five parking lots: P1 to P5. I park at P1, and the toilet facilities are closed in the winter. However, I still have to enter the park via the information center with toilets. You pay via the Parka app or at the parking lot itself. For a regular passenger car, you pay 1000 ISK (2024). That is on the expensive side, but hey… it is Iceland, and the Þingvellir park is free.
The paths are clearly laid out, so you can’t get lost. I find it quite busy, and the parking lots are not even full. The walking trail takes you to the place where Iceland’s first parliament was founded (Althing) and the Þingvellir church. This is one of the most famous churches in Iceland. Next to it is the summer house of the prime minister, which is still used today.
The Oxarafoss waterfall attracts a lot of attention. The number of tourists detracts a bit from the experience, but I plan to visit many more waterfalls so it’s all good. And then there is also the Almannagja Gorge. This is the transition from the North American to the Eurasian tectonic plate. I’ve read about it, but otherwise, I would not have recognized it and would have just thought it was a beautiful gorge. It’s so pretty that Game of Thrones scenes were also filmed here.
Google Maps location parking
Paid parking
Extra stop: Brúarfoss waterfall
A short detour of a fifteen-minute drive (there and back) brings my best friend and me to the Brúarfoss waterfall. It is perhaps more a wild river than a waterfall. Barely a five-minute walk from the parking lot, you will find a bridge over the water, and this is it. The water looks icy cold. Part of it is still frozen, which makes you see color gradations in the water: from white to blue to almost black.
It is a bit expensive to park (750 ISK, 2024) for a not very impressive waterfall. You can pay via a machine or the Parka app. Your license plate is scanned, so pay to avoid a fine, even if it is only a short stop.
Google Maps location
Paid parking
Stop 2: Geysir and Strokkur geysers
A geothermal area is in the Haukadalur area. Meaning that this is the perfect place to see geysers. A geyser is a volcanic phenomenon that spouts steam and water due to the earth’s heat. But unfortunately: the original geyser is no longer active. Geysir has stopped spouting. Too bad, because this geyser could spout up to 70 meters high and used to even get up to 150 meters, but that was a long time ago.
So nowadays, you have to go to the smaller Strokkur geyser. It reaches 20 to 30 meters high and erupts approximately every five to eight minutes. The busier it gets around the geyser, the closer you get to the moment supreme. In my opinion, the best view is when you stand a little away from the geyser, in the direction of where it spits the water. If you stand right next to it, it looks like a big bubble bath, while the splashing and spreading water only really makes an impression from the other side.
The area smells of sulfur (rotten eggs), but I actually think it’s not that bad. I may smell it less because the wind blows so hard. I also take a look at Blesi, which is more of a hot spring than a geyser. Although officially it is one, I believe.
It is a short walk to the geyser area from the parking lot across the road. Between Geysir, Strokkur, and the Blesi geyser, there is a short walking trail of 2.2 kilometers. You can also do a short hike up (30 min return) for the view.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Stop 3: Gullfoss waterfall
Translated, Gullfoss means ‘golden waterfalls’. What else did I expect on the Golden Circle, right? The Gullfoss waterfall is incredibly large – and also attracts a large amount of people. The waterfall consists of two parts. First, the water falls 11 meters, flows a little further, and then thunders down 21 meters. In the summer, it is said to be super forceful. At the beginning of spring, parts are still frozen.
The Gullfoss waterfall is already beautiful from above, but you can also walk down a platform to view the waterfall head-on. I also walk along the rocks to view the waterfall from the side. Here, you will also find a longer walking path. The icy wind prevents me from following it
Google Maps location
Free parking
Stop 4: Faxafoss waterfall
We skip the Faxafoss waterfall due to lack of time (and because we are ready for the next extra stop: the wine bar). In the meantime, our knowledge of the Icelandic language is improving rapidly. Because after the Oxarafoss, Brúarfoss, Gullfoss, and Faxafoss, the penny (finally) drops: foss means waterfall. I learned something new today!
We skip the Faxafoss waterfall, and more people do. After all, if you have seen the Gullfoss waterfall, the Faxafoss waterfall is a lot less impressive. But if you drive the Golden Circle the other way around, then you should have a nice build-up.
Extra stop: Vínstofa Friðheima – Winebar & Bistro
We think we deserve a (expensive) glass of wine, and I have a great spot in mind: Vínstofa Friðheima. It is a wine bar and bistro in an old tomato greenhouse. There are still greenhouses around the bar that are still in use.
It is a beautiful, light space with vines growing over the roof. Nicely decorated, delicious wine and a cheese board with Icelandic cheeses. The cheapest wine? €12 for a glass. Not even a crazy price in Iceland. The service is very friendly, and we sit comfortably in the giant chairs. Did you know that tipping is not customary in Iceland? Feel free to tip of course, but you don’t have to.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Extra stop: Secret Lagoon
It’s not a secret anymore, but the Secret Lagoon is much smaller (and cheaper) than the Blue Lagoon. The Secret Lagoon is the oldest hot water pool in Iceland. In the winter you can go there until 7 pm, and in the summer it is open an hour longer. Maybe it’s a good idea to dip here after all those sights of the Golden Circle? You have to book in advance to ensure you can go in.
Extra stop: Hrunalaug Hot Spring
But, if you fancy a dip in the water that is a bit more authentic and small-scale, then forget the Secret Lagoon and go to the Hrunalaug Hot Spring. It is a cute, small hot spring in a remote location. You pay ISK 2500 for adults, ISK 1200 for children, and children under 11 are free.
I am there at 9.15 in the morning, and there are only two others. But I read in the reviews that many people have already discovered this gem. You pay at the entrance or the mailbox. There are shower facilities if you need them. The water in the hot spring is rainwater, which is heated by the hot rocks.
Right next to the Hrunalaug Hot Spring is a small shack where you can change. The shack and the bath in front of it were built in 1935 by a local farmer. The bath was then used to wash sheep to protect them from a disease caused by mites. As far as I know, only people now come to bathe. I didn’t see any sheep anyway – would have been nice though.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Extra stop: Skálholt Cathedral
In the village of Skálholt is the white church Skálholtsdómkirkja (even more Icelandic language: kirkja is church!). You can enter for free, so check if the door is open. Inside, you will also find a museum. I didn’t visit that.
This is the 10th church at this exact location. The first was built in 1056, and the one you see now is from 1963. In front of the church is an archaeological site, and you have a beautiful view over the plain, with mountains in the background. Next to the cathedral is a hotel; on the outside, you can go down a staircase to the toilets. Free of charge, thank you very much.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Stop 5: Kerið crater lake
Finally: another official stop on the Golden Circle. For the Kerið crater lake, you pay ISK 500, and you have to overcome a considerable queue. A few busloads of tourists arrive when I visit the crater lake, but they spread out nicely over the area.
The crater lake is frozen in early April, making it look like an ice rink. Normally, the blue water contrasts beautifully with the red volcanic rock, combined with green mosses and hints of yellow. Icelandic singer Björk once performed on a raft in the crater.
You can walk around the top of the crater in about fifteen minutes. And then descend to the water. The Kerið crater lake is a popular stop because it is easily accessible and very beautiful, but also because it is unique in its kind. The crater lake was formed when a magma chamber collapsed, while most other craters result from an explosion.
Google Maps location
Free parking
Extra stop: Greenhouse Hotel food hall
Whether you feel like a cup of coffee or are a bit hungry, stop by the beautiful Greenhouse Hotel. In the morning, you can go to the luxurious lobby. It is a lovely open space with many plants, an extensive shop, and delicious coffee. In the afternoon, the food hall opens. You can order tacos, salads, Asian dishes, and more. At 4 pm, it is happy hour in the food hall, and in the evening, at 9 pm, it is happy hour again – yay!
Google Maps location
Free parking
Back to Reykjavík?
That was it; you’ve completed the entire Golden Circle route. You can now return to Reykjavík, or perhaps you prefer to travel on. For example to Vík, Snaefellsnes or Höfn. Or maybe you prefer to stay overnight nearby. I also have tips for accommodation for you: Geysir Hestar and the Greenhouse Hotel.
Basic Golden Circle accommodation: Geysir Hestar
We cut the Golden Circle drive in two and sleep near the geyser area. We choose Geysir Hestar. This is a self-service accommodation on a horse farm. Because we are traveling out of season, we unfortunately cannot go for a ride. But there are horses on the grounds. Geysir Hestar offers different accommodations: wooden houses, yurts, and a guest house. We sleep in the latter. You can book here.
It takes me some time to get used to paying around €140 for a double room with a shared bathroom. That’s not unusual in Iceland. Fortunately, it is all neat. Unfortunately, Geysir Hestar’s guesthouse rooms are very noisy, but the view more than makes up for that.
There is a shared kitchen where people meet after a long day and exchange tips about Iceland. When I enter the kitchen the next morning,a man proudly showing me his Northern Lights photos. Was that here, last night? Yes. I missed it.
Fancy Golden Circle accommodation: The Greenhouse Hotel
If you want more luxury, you can try The Greenhouse Hotel. This is also where the food hall is, so you can roll straight into your hotel bed from happy hour. All hotel rooms have a view of the mountains and are modernly furnished. I didn’t sleep there, so judge for yourself whether it’s something for you. Check out the hotel on Booking.
More Iceland inspiration?
Useful links for your Iceland trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare more prices, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Guidebooks. I like paper travel guides to flip through, available for sale Amazon and others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Trip, Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? See what Expedia or CheapOair has on offer.
- Yoga retreat or horseback riding vacation. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Iceland or a horseback riding vacation.
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First published: July 2024. The article has been updated since.
