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Latest update: 30 July 2024
An important part of traveling is food, right? French cuisine is well-known and loved, and in Nancy, it is no different. I have some great tips for restaurants, wine and cocktail bars, and local specialties. Come hungry!
Lalonde’s sweets and cookies
It’s quite a mouthful: Boulangerie Pâtisserie Confiserie Chocolaterie Nathalie Lalonde. The shop is full of sweets—colorful candies, chocolates, macarons, and much more. Manager Marion tells me that everything you see in Lalonde is handmade from local ingredients. Even the wrappers around the sweets are wrapped by hand.
It’s easy to get greedy in the store, but if you find it difficult to choose, you can always ask if you can taste something. My recommendations? Get Nancy’s macaron. They are not like most of us recognize macarons -as we know them with two colorful biscuits and filling, but actually just the biscuit in ‘normal’ biscuit color. Bergamot candy is a typical product in the region. The man after whom the large square in Nancy is named, Stanislas Leszczynski, ate this candy as a substitute for brushing his teeth. That wasn’t very effective because, at one point, his teeth became so bad that baba was made especially for him. These are small cakes preserved in a jar with alcohol. Nice and soft, so good old Stan didn’t have to chew.
Also tasty: Duchesse de Lorraine. It is a brittle candy with almond and hazelnut praline with a thin layer of meringue. Yum! You get the idea: be sure to come and see if Lalonde has something tasty for you. Most likely, the answer is yes.
Quiche Lorraine
Nancy is in the Lorraine region in northeastern France. This region is where the Quiche Lorraine comes from. If you see it on the menu, you should order it.
I’m fortunate because a little outside Nancy, I get to make a Quiche Lorraine with the chef of Auberge de la Mirabelle, “Chez Léon.” And that’s actually very simple. It contains egg, bacon, and cream. I should be able to bake one myself at home. The biggest challenge is making the dough. Officially, there is no cheese in a Quiche Lorraine, but the French are not that strict. They also love cheese – just like me- so I can add it generously to my quiche.
You can also have lunch at Auberge de la Mirabelle “Chez Léon”. They serve homely French meals in large portions. If you also want to make a Quiche Lorraine with the chef, it is best to call ahead.
Local bubbles: Perlé de Mirabelle
Just like bergamot, you will also see mirabelle on the menu in many places. It is a small yellow plum and they make all kinds of things with it here. Jams, liqueur, soap, you name it. And you can also order it as a drink. Perlé de Mirabelle is a glass of bubbles with mirabelle. Delicious as an aperitif.
Grand Café Foy
Grand Café Foy is on the corner of the beautiful Stanislas square. I’m always a little afraid that these kinds of places in prime locations in the city are tourist traps. But that is certainly not the case at Grand Café Foy. The stately building turns out to be a pink surprise inside. There are hundreds of roses attached to the ceiling, and pink details are everywhere I look. I did not expect that.
For less than €40 I order a three-course dinner including two small glasses of matching wine. The menu is mainly French, but you can also order a burger, Caesar salad, or pasta. I always want to eat locally, and that is possible here. A tasty terrine and a delicious crème brûlée? Oui s’il vous plait. The service is very correct and gives good advice.
A La Marianne
Near the Thermal de Nancy there is a French restaurant called A La Marianne. It is a simply decorated restaurant with a nice afternoon menu with three choices for each course. The friendly chef (and perhaps also owner?) patiently translates the menu for me. The dishes are simple French dishes. Generous portions, simply well-prepared. It feels like a casual neighborhood restaurant. You can also have dinner on weekends, but you might prefer to explore the city center’s restaurants.
Brasserie L’Excelsior
Do you have time only for one dinner in Nancy? Then Brasserie L’Excelsior is the right choice. It is an art nouveau brasserie. It feels like I’m walking into an old French movie. When you enter, the containers full of fresh fish and seafood are displayed. The interior is lavish and chic, and the service is neat and tidy. Yet it doesn’t feel stiff or anything. Our waiter is a nice young man who speaks perfect English, gives us good advice and is up for a joke. Fun fact: he is on the book cover about the best brasseries in the east of France that you’ll find on display in the brasserie.
You absolutely must make a reservation for L’Excelsior. It’s a huge place, but it’s also packed. Many people come and go, and quite a few get disappointed when all the tables are full.
Good coffee cafes in Nancy
I’m not a fan of French coffee and I’m not that addicted to caffeine that I drink it anyway. So I look for lovely places where they make coffee to my taste. And I found some! For example, you can visit the small coffee shop Sèves (Google Maps location). Or go to Quokka Café (Google Maps location), where they serve large cappuccinos on the terrace or inside, where there is a bit of a retro/surf vibe. If I remember correctly, the owner is Australian, which explains a lot.
Cocktailbar Le Bar du Crystal
Since when are hotel bars this good? Le Bar du Crystal is part of the Best Western Hotel. I don’t even stay there, but the rooftop bar looks too good to skip from the pictures. Ultimately, I missed it anyway because of the heavy rains and ended up inside. No punishment either because Le Bar du Crystal is modern and warmly decorated. And most importantly: they serve delicious cocktails. Not just your standard mojito, but unique creations in special glasses. In a mini bathtub, for example. Be sure to come here for a cocktail when you’re in Nancy!
Wine bar Chais les potes
Wine bar Chais les potes is a little hidden behind the Saint Epvre basilica. There are only French people and I think they don’t get a lot of tourists. The owner turns around in horror when she discovers that we don’t speak French and calls in her husband. But with Google Translate on my phone, I can go a long way. At Chais les potes, you pay €5 for each wine – whichever one you pick. How’s that for reasonable prices?! There is no menu, but you tell the waiter what you like – or you type it into Google Translate.
Wine bar Jacques – Table à vins
The owner himself stands behind the bar at wine bar Jacques. Of course, his name is Jacques. He chooses the perfect wine for me when I describe what I’m looking for. I’m pleased. I only wish I had discovered this nice place sooner because I see delicious foods coming out of the kitchen all the time. So, let’s go back to Nancy one more time? Then I’ll take a photo too – oops, I forgot! Sorry Jacques.
More inspiration for travel in France?
Helpful links for your France trip
- Accommodation. All-time favorites: Booking.com and Campspace for unique camping spots. Rather stay in a hostel? Check out Hostelworld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide and Viator. You can find other good options at WithLocals. Check out Freetour and GuruWalk for ‘free’ walking tours, and for bike tours, try Baja Bikes. If you’re into wine: check out all the wine-related activities at Rue des Vignerons.
- Attractions and museums. Book museum and attraction tickets with Tiqets and get a 5% discount with this code: KIMOPREIS22.
- Car rental. Want to compare prices? Check out Discover Cars and Rental Cars.
- Flights. Definitely compare prices! Try Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Money. Your debit and credit cards may not be accepted everywhere. When you travel, you could opt for a Revolut card as an additional card.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Maybe Expedia or CheapOair has a good option.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train and bus. Travel by train to France with NS International, or plan your trip via Trainline. Or find deals on trains and busses in France via Busbud, Omio, or 12Go.
- Travel guides. I love the practical travel guides from Lonely Planet, buy them at Amazon.
- Yoga retreat. And what about a yoga retreat in France?
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I was invited to Nancy by Destination Nancy. They have given me complete editorial freedom. They paid for some of the food and drinks.