Latest update: 12 December 2024
It sounds somewhat ominous: an excursion in Iceland in the valley of thunder god Thor. But with a super jeep and a super guide we overcome rough river crossings and falling icicles in Þórsmörk (Thorsmork).
Excursion in Iceland
With my best friend Patrick I travel through Iceland for ten days and of course we visit the Golden Circle, Vík and many waterfalls. You know: all the highlights of Iceland. All beautiful sights that you can easily see on your own. But Iceland is also the country where you can do a lot of excursions in nature and that is difficult to choose.
We decide that we want to go to something we can’t get to on our own and which is preferably also a little off the beaten track. And so we end up at Midgard Adventure’s Þórsmörk Super Jeep tour (this one). I’ve never heard of Þórsmörk, nor do I know what a Super Jeep is, so let’s go! And it turns out to be a really good choice: this is one of my favorite excursions in Iceland.
What is a super jeep?
The Icelanders call the Super Jeep a fjallajeppi. Literally translated: a mountain jeep. A regular jeep actually seems quite small after seeing a super jeep. I think my Fiat 500 will probably look like a toy car next to the Super Jeep. Because it is quite a monster! It is a heavily modified 4×4 jeep with enormous tires. Super handy in the rugged landscape of Iceland. And it does get rough in Þórsmörk.
Þórsmörk Super Jeep tour
At Midgard Base Camp in Hvolsvöllur (Google Maps location), where you can also stay overnight and eat, we met our guide Ragnar and the other participants. Two families, a couple and us. Nice overview and it always turns out that way. Because the maximum group size is 14, and yes, they all fit in the Super Jeep. I always like such a smaller group, because that way you get to know each other a bit during such a day trip. It turns out that Ragnar only traded in his office job for work as a guide a little over a year ago. Midgard really is a family business and his family thought he should just give it a try. They were right. He is still happy with his choice every day.
Þórsmörk or Thorsmork
We leave Midgard Base Camp with the super jeep to Þórsmörk. That is the Icelandic name for the nature reserve. Internationally, we write it as Thorsmork, which helps me pronounce it better, to be honest. Now I immediately recognize a reference to the Norwegian thunder god Thor. The name means something like Thor’s forest – but during my visit in April I see little forest. In the summer it is very green here. Officially, only the mountain ridge is called Þórsmörk, but secretly, the surrounding area is also included.
The area is in the south of Iceland and is quite remote and difficult to access. Hence the superjeep. There are mountains, glaciers, rivers and waterfalls. You can also do multi-day hikes through the area. Feeling the inclement wind, seeing the rough landscape and the elevation changes, I would guess that you have to be pretty fit to do that. So for today, I’m fine with being driven around and stopping for shorter hikes.
The ash cloud of Þórsmörk
Þórsmörk lies between three glaciers: Mýrdalsjökull, Tindfjallajökull and Eyjafjallajökull. Probably that last name doesn’t tell you anything, but you might know it. After all, Eyjafjallajökull is both a glacier and a volcano. The volcano that erupted in 2010 and shut down all air traffic in Europe because of the ash cloud. Remember that? We drive past it and now see only the glacier tongue which, due to the weight and pressure of the ice, appears blue by reflection.
Crossing streams and rivers
If you have rented yourself a 4×4, in theory, you can visit Þórsmörk on your own. But with the superjeep we can take the scenic route and we soon encounter streams and rivers that I would absolutely not want to cross with a car. This takes serious skills, mind you! I hold my breath when Ragnar slowly lowers the nose of the super jeep into the water and my head immediately spins scenarios about drowning in ice-cold water. A quick check with Patrick reveals that I am not the only one sitting with my buttcheeks squeezed together.
The glacier rivers are already quite broad. But in the summer, they are three times bigger, Ragnar tells me. And brown. Now they are icy blue.
Tip: If you are going to drive yourself, it is useful to read this blog about car rental in Iceland .
Program Þórsmörk Super Jeep tour
The program of the Þórsmörk Super Jeep tour is not fixed. The Icelandic weather is too changeable for that. On the day of the tour, we will see what is possible – that’s safe. Today, we will do a short hike to the top of Valahnukur, walk in the Stakkholtsgjá gorge, and visit a waterfall. In between, we will have a brief lunch stop.
About that lunch: I recommend having Midgard Adventure arrange it. Unpacking the packed lunch really feels like a present, and the lunch is very tasty. The chickpea salad? Love it. The seed and fruit mix? Healthy and a bit spicy. There is also a brownie, Skyr, and more. So order it. Find out more about the lunchbox here.
Polar Fox!
But we start with a short hike that is quite tough. We are going to climb the 458-meter-high Valahnukur. A 360° view awaits us at the top, but that’s still about 40 minutes ahead of us. At first our guide thinks we can climb without crampons (get them via Amazon), but when another group passes us with crampons we decide to put them on. A good choice, because there is still quite a lot of ice on the route.
Just before we go up, we see an arctic fox in the corner of our eyes. Our tour group does not seem that impressed, but I am very enthusiastic. Guide Ragnar breaks a raw egg, hoping the Arctic fox is hungry. But unfortunately, he does not show himself again. So you have to make do with this one blurry photo. In the winter, arctic foxes hang around at the hike’s starting point because they are occasionally fed. In the summer, when there are many tourists, they look for quieter places.
Valahnúkur: on top of the world!
The climb to the top of Valahnúkur starts with a piece of forest in hibernation. If I remember correctly, these are birch trees, which are pretty unique. There is not much forest in Iceland, but because the mountains protect the area from the cold, they can grow here. But uh… I find it quite cold today! So where exactly is that shelter… you tell me.
The wind and the ice make this a challenging hike for me, but the suffering is amply rewarded. I can see for miles into the valley. Too bad it’s so windy; I would have loved to play with my brand-new drone here. The descent on the other side of Valahnúkur is a lot smoother. In twenty minutes, we return to the guide and the Super Jeep.
Stakkholtsgjá gorge
After lunch, we drive to the Stakkholtsgjá Gorge. There is a waterfall, but our final destination is a cave. Surrounded by steep, black mountains, we walk through the ravine. There are black boulders and stones, and we cross small streams. But not so small that I can step over them. With the group, we place large rocks in the stream so that everyone gets to the other side with dry feet.
When we get close to the cave, we have to cross another piece of ice. Pretty tense with that creaking under my shoes. Guide Ragnar walks a little ahead to test whether it is safe to enter the cave. He returns with wet feet. No cave today and while we are discussing this, an icicle falls from meters high and explodes near us. Everyone suddenly manages to find their way back across the ice at lightning speed instead of foot by foot.
Even without a cave, the Stakkholtsgjá Gorge in Þórsmörk is beautiful. It is breathtakingly beautiful and very quiet. Only a few birds that sometimes seem to shout at each other. We really seem to be in another world here, completely cut off from the rest. It is not hard to imagine why Game of Thrones chose the Stakkholtsgjá as one of its filming locations.
Gluggafoss waterfall
The last stop on Midgard Adventures’ Þórsmörk Super Jeep tour is the Merkjárfoss waterfall also called Gluggafoss. In fact, Gluggafoss means “window waterfall. That refers to the vistas that can be seen in between the stones. From 53 meters high, the water falls down in two steps. In early April, part of the waterfall is still frozen.
And then it’s all over. Ragnar fully automatically inflates the tires of the super jeep for the paved road and neatly delivers us to Midgard Base Camp. You can book this excursion in Iceland on the Midgard Adventure site, by the way.
Midgard Base Camp
I’m glad we spend another night here because it is a packed full-day excursion in Iceland. At Midgard Base Camp, and during the tour, for that matter, I really feel that family vibe they try to impart here. Midgard was founded in 2010 as a one-man show, and slowly, more and more family members joined owner Siggi. The dream is to make Hvolsvöllur the adventure capital of Iceland. Or maybe it already is?!
In any case, I feel very welcome after our super jeep adventure. All the staff are very nice and hospitable. When checking in, I am immediately shown around with a short tour. There is a hot tub and a sauna.
You shouldn’t want to play Masterchef in the small guest kitchen, but you can make a quick pasta there just fine. It really is a nice, almost homey setting with inviting common areas. Occasionally there is live music or a movie night.
We eat the Adventure Burger and arctic salmon at night in the restaurant overlooking the meadows with horses. This is also where you can attack the extensive breakfast buffet in the morning. So many goodies! And at night, I lay in a comfortable with my own light, outlet, and curtain in one of the dormitories. I’m already dreaming about coming back because there’s so much more to experience here.
More Iceland inspiration?
Useful links for your Iceland trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare more prices, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Guidebooks. I like paper travel guides to flip through, available for sale Amazon and others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Trip, Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? See what Expedia or CheapOair has on offer.
- Yoga retreat or horseback riding vacation. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Iceland or a horseback riding vacation.
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links. If you buy something through these links, I might receive a small commission.
I joined his tour at the invitation of Midgard Adventure. I was given complete editorial freedom by them.
First published April 2024. The article has been updated since.
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