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Latest update: 22 February 2023
When I tell the hotel manager in Bacalar (Mexico) that Corozal (Belize) is my next stop, she looks at me questioningly. What on earth am I going to do there? This a question I ask myself a few more times in Corozal Town, where I mainly meet pensioners and potentially ‘bad’ people.
Northern Belize
Corozal is the northernmost town in Belize, in the province with the same name. It was founded in 1849 by refugees from the Caste War, the war between the Maya from Yucatan and the Mexican government and the white elite. In 1955, it was hit by a hurricane and rebuilt, and since then, according to the Rough Guide, it has been a nice place to relax for a few days.
Since I just said goodbye to my two travel buddies, I could use some time to recover and recharge for traveling alone. Many people use the town to transfer by bus or boat to other places in Belize. In addition, Corozal is loved by older Americans. They can enjoy their old age relatively cheaply here.
Desolate rain
In Corozal, I can’t relax at all. I’m there on the weekend, when a lot of people go to Mexico to do some shopping. In addition, it rains, and the local population, therefore, quite rightly, stays indoors. As a result, the town’s streets are deserted and full of puddles.
Bravely, I slalom through it anyway. Occasionally I meet a Belizean, only men. And everyone says hello and tells me I’m getting wet in the rain. I’m sure it’s well-meant, but between the raindrops, I can’t see the kindness of the comments. This is partly due to my Airbnb host: she has warned me thoroughly about dodgy people in Corozal and tells me not to go out alone at night. Also, I shouldn’t use my camera because that gives people wrong ideas. She makes me feel scared and unsafe – probably more so than necessary.
Advice: stay indoors, close doors and windows
I end up at a restaurant with very bad nachos (with a nasty cheese sauce), but I’m happy with the wifi, and the waiter is pleasant. Around dusk, I decide to do some shopping, and I get some food at a makeshift stall. The rather portly lady is thrilled that I speak a word of Spanish, so she scoops up an extra spoonful of rice and beans for me.
After a pleasant chat, the atmosphere suddenly changes. What am I doing here alone? She wants to know. She makes me go straight home and lock the door because bad people are all around Corozal, she ensures me. This is exactly what you do NOT want to hear while traveling alone. But if two local women give me this advice separately, I won’t take the risk. So that’s how I’m locked in my room from sunset on my first solo travel day. A room in which I literally and figuratively don’t want to be found dead. The rooms in Corozal are pretty expensive for my backpacker’s budget. So I pass on the better hotels in Corozal on Booking.com, and now I’m in a shabby budget room.
Pensioners in Corozal
And, of course, I booked two nights. Sigh. Now, I regret that, but my boat to the next place will not leave until the day after tomorrow. Traveling alone is sometimes so dreadful. But day two already starts 100% better. The most popular dining spot (among American retirees enjoying their old days here) is open for breakfast today. At June’s Kitchen (Google Maps location), I eat a tasty tuna sandwich and lots of fruit. The pensioners trickle in and exchange the latest news about illnesses, deaths, and how they prefer to be buried. That’s seriously the discussion topic. Time to go. With the sun, the town already looks a lot friendlier. Today, the women are also out on the street. As it turns out, not only the men strike up a conversation, but also the women. So my nervous suspicions don’t seem entirely justified.
Chilling out at Corozo Blue
I spend the rest of the day at Corozo Blue, a restaurant and day resort. Now, the word resort sounds very fancy, but it’s just a waterfront restaurant with a few seats. The wifi is excellent (I don’t have wifi in my room, hence my enthusiasm). I loaf here all day, reading, writing, and having something to eat and drink. The service is good, and the food is tasty.
Thunderbolt boat to the Cayes
At a quarter to five in the evening, the office of the Thunderbolt boat opens. This boat goes to Sarteneja, San Pedro, and Caye Caulker. To be safe, I buy a ticket for the following day. There is only a boat at 7 o’clock in the morning, and I want to make it. Always check the current departure times of the boat! On the site, or rather at the office (Google Maps location).
Tip! Need more information about which boats sail in Belize? Check: How do you get from A to B in Belize by boat?
While you are in Corozal…
As you can see, this blog is not exactly a plea for a stay in Corozal. I’m sure that’s primarily due to saying goodbye to my friends and the rain. But given the warnings of the local ladies about the bad/dodgy people, if you are traveling alone, it might be a better plan to continue to Orange Walk or Sarteneja.
If you do spend a day with the pensioners: June’s Kitchen and Corozo Blue are the nicest places, in my opinion. And a walk through the town never hurts. For sure there are plenty of Belizeans willing to have a chat. During the week, it’s also supposed to be quite lively around the square. People come to collect their salaries and spend part of it. In addition, you can use the internet for free for an hour a day in the park. Such a relief if your accommodation does not have internet!
More Belize travel inspiration?
Useful links for your Belize trip
- Accommodation. All-time favorite is Booking.com. Book hostels via Hostelworld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide and Viator.
- Bus. Book buses in Belize through Busbud, Omio, or 12Go.
- Car rental. My go-to car rental companies are EasyTerra and Sunny Cars as they have all-inclusive / worry-free offers. You could also use Discover Cars to compare prices.
- Flights. Compare all your options! For sure check Momondo, Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Money. Your debit and credit cards may not get accepted everywhere. You could opt for a Revolut card as an additional card when you travel.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Not many Dutch travel companies offer trips to Belize: try Sawadee or Shoestring.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Travel gear. Buy your gear at Bever or Decathlon, or simply at Bol.com.
- Travel guides. I love the practical guidebooks by Lonely Planet. You can buy them at Bol.com and Amazon.
- Yoga retreat. Or, book a lovely yoga retreat in Belize!
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First published: January 2018. The article has been updated since.
