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The morning sun creeps over the walls of the Mezquita while the first aromas of freshly baked churros waft through the narrow streets. Whether you want to get lost in the flower-pot-adorned patios or are looking for the lesser-known sights, I’m happy to tell you what you absolutely must do and see in Córdoba.
Córdoba in a day?
Although Córdoba is one of the larger cities in Andalusia, it is much smaller than Seville or Málaga. The center is nice and compact, so in theory, you can see a lot of Córdoba in a day. But I think that’s too short. I would definitely set aside two days for Córdoba, maybe even three. I do the latter; that way, I can discover the city at a nice, relaxed, Spanish pace.
Exploring Córdoba by bike
I often find it useful to start a city trip with a walking tour or bike tour. It helps me get to know the highlights and develop a sense of direction. In Córdoba I opt for a bike tour by Baja Bikes. It’s winter (but with a pleasant sun during the day), and apparently, there isn’t much interest because my best friend and I are getting a private tour. Together with the guide, we cycle past the various highlights of Córdoba: the Mezquita, the Roman bridge, the Alcázar, and more. We get concise explanations everywhere to better understand what we want to take a closer look at in the coming days.
Want to do this tour too? You can book it at Baja Bikes.
Walking tour in the Jewish Quarter of Córdoba
I also opt for a short one-hour walking tour through the Jewish quarter (Judería) of Córdoba. That part consists of a maze of narrow streets, and we don’t visit it with the bike tour. Besides, this tour only costs ten euros (about $11) via Booking, so I definitely don’t have to skip it because of the price.
The guide speaks perfect English and lives in the Jewish quarter herself. In addition to explaining the neighborhood’s history, she also provides us with inside info about living in this part of Córdoba —where, incidentally, no Jews live anymore. The neighborhood consists of many small, narrow streets with shops and a number of patios. We also visit the Jewish synagogue and pause at the statue of the Jewish thinker Maimonides.
There are clearly many more tour groups on the move. Sometimes, we literally walk in a traffic jam through the narrow streets. That’s quite a shame, but hey, what can you do about it?
So I opt for a walking tour through the Jewish quarter via Booking, but you can do many more city walks in Córdoba. Check out Freetour, GuruWalk, GetYourGuide and Viator to compare themes, prices and dates.
Jewish synagogue and Jewish thinker
The Jewish synagogue is, how could it be otherwise, located in the Jewish quarter. You can visit it for free, but sometimes there can be a long line due to the tour groups. Then it’s better to come back at a different time because it’s only a small synagogue. It was probably once a private or family synagogue and dates back to 1315. It was used until 1492, now it is one of the few memories of the Jewish history in Córdoba. The synagogue is actually no more than a small hall with inscriptions and motifs.
Near the synagogue stands the statue of the Jewish thinker Maimonides. He was born in Córdoba in 1135 but had to flee Spain when the Jews were banished. The statue has different wear spots. That’s because people rub it: if you touch his beard, you won’t lose your hair. If you touch the book, you become (or remain) very intelligent. Finally, you can touch his shoes for luck and prosperity.
Visit the horse show of Córdoba Ecuestre
The horse show of Córdoba Ecuestre is quite a spectacle. You get to see different riding styles, rearing horses, and also a dance with a flamenco dancer. It’s been two years since I saw the horse show in Jerez de la Frontera, and it reminds me a bit of that. If you recently saw that one, you don’t necessarily have to go to this one in Córdoba as well. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to take photos, but on the day of your ticket or the day after, you can come and have a look at the stables and try to catch the training (around 11 am).
The show lasts about an hour with a five-minute short break. Pay attention in the winter months: you are seated outside. There are heaters on the stands, but dress warmly. We are sitting on regular ‘chairs,’ which are actually no more than a long wooden bench with a thin cushion under our buttocks. The premium seats are real chairs, and they are on the long side of the arena.
You can stop by the royal stables (Caballerizas Reales) on the day itself to see if there are still tickets. However, if you want to be sure of a seat, it is better to book online in advance. You can do that, for example, here via GetYourGuide or at Viator.
Admire the Mezquita of Córdoba
The Mezquita of Córdoba is the city’s most important attraction. It is a large medieval mosque with a cathedral inside—very special. The horseshoe-shaped arches are typical of the Mezquita. I have devoted an entire article to it, and there you can also find how you can visit it for free. Read more about the Mezquita of Córdoba.
You can visit the garden of the Mezquita for free. This is the Patio de los Naranjos. The name says it all: it is full of orange trees.
Puerta del Puente and Puente Romano de Córdoba
Via the Roman bridge of Córdoba, you can cross the Guadalquivir River. On one side lies the historic center of Córdoba with the city gate Puerta del Puente. On the other side, you find the Torre De Calahorra and a walking park. Street vendors and street musicians gather on the bridge. Sometimes, it’s a bit difficult to zigzag through there, but do it anyway. From the Torre De Calahorra side, you have a beautiful view of the bridge and the Mezquita. It’s worth it at both sunrise and sunset.
Torre De Calahorra
And now that we’re talking about that tower at the beginning of the Roman bridge… You can visit the Torre De Calahorra. Inside is a museum about Andalusia. The audio tour is rather long-winded and it’s hard to keep focused. After leaving the museum, I don’t understand what this museum is about. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t about the tower. The literal and figurative highlight was actually that you can go up the tower for the view. Luckily I’m only €4 ($4.40 USD) poorer.
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
The word Alcázar is Arabic and means castle or palace. In Córdoba, therefore, stands the palace of the Christian kings. It was built in the 14th century by order of the king. It’s at the exact spot where a Moorish palace used to be. In 1486, the king and queen of Spain met explorer Christopher Columbus in the current Alcázar.
Upon entering, I first visit the palace to view the mosaics dating back to Roman times. Then I go up the tower for a view of the city and the gardens and admire the garden. Fortunately, there is still a lot of green in Andalusia in winter, but this must be very beautiful in spring.
You can book online or buy a ticket at the box office of the Alcázar. Online it is 8 cents cheaper. Haha, what a saving.
Go to the market: Mercado de la Corredera and Plaza de la Corredera
I always find it fun to stroll through the market abroad. It’s nice to see what products are sold and how they are displayed. In the Netherlands, it is unthinkable to chop off fish heads with a big axe in your stall or display a pig’s head. The Mercado de la Corredera is a bit outside the center. It is a small covered daily market for the residents of Córdoba.
The market is fun to walk through and it is located on a large square with shops and terraces. This area reminds me a bit of the Plaza Mayor of Madrid, but smaller and less hectic.
Grab a bite to eat at the Mercado Victoria
The Mercado Victoria is also a market, but one where you go to eat. It is a food hall with various stalls. You can find all kinds of things: pizza, fried fish, cheese, ham, tacos, and much more. During my visit, there were mainly many Spaniards, and it turned out to be incredibly popular. Once we have conquered a table, we take turns looking for something tasty
Terraces along the river (Paseo de la Ribera)
Want to catch your breath and have something to eat or drink in the sun? You can do that at the Paseo de la Ribera. There, you will find an insane number of terraces. Around lunchtime, it fills up quickly. We don’t have a reservation, and that turns out to be quite a challenge. In the end, we manage to find a table and eat some tapas. But if you really have a restaurant in mind where you would like to eat, make sure you make a reservation!
Taste Córdoba
Cordoba’s signature dish is salmorejo, which is delicious! It is a thick, cold soup with a boiled egg and pieces of ham. It is so well known that you can buy it in any supermarket in Andalusia, but of course, it’s more fun to try it at a restaurant in Córdoba itself. Also try something with rabo de toro, or oxtail. Curious where you can do that and what else you should eat? Then read my blog about restaurants and food in Córdoba.
Templo Romano de Córdoba
Unfortunately, I can’t tell you much about the Roman temple of Córdoba. It was in scaffolding during my visit. Only a few columns are still standing, so I understand that they want to preserve them well. But even if they are not in scaffolding, it is only a short visit. You can see the temple from the street.
Admire the patios of Córdoba (Patios de San Basilio)
When you are in the city, you HAVE to see the patios of Córdoba. You can find beautiful patios in more cities in Andalusia, but here in Córdoba, there are many of them, and the people make an enormous effort to make their patios beautiful. You can visit some of the patios (for a fee).
Near the Alcázar I visit the Patios de San Basilio. I get a ticket with a small map showing five patios that I can visit. It costs € 6.50 per person (about $7 USD). I didn’t pick quite the right season to visit the patios. It’s winter, and I mainly see a lot of poinsettias, which are nice, but in summer, the patios are much more impressive when more flowers are in bloom.
Palacio de Viana: patios and palace
There are twelve patios to admire at Palacio de Viana. You can see the first one for free, but for the rest, you have to pay. You can also pay a little extra for a guided visit to the palace house, but I stick to the patios. They are beautifully maintained and all just a little different. I think it’s worth visiting, even if you’ve already seen the patios of San Basilio.
Meet the caretakers of the patios
The people of Córdoba are proud of their patios, which is why the patio caretakers are also honored with statues. There are three of them in the city. You can read more about the tribute here.
The first is ‘La Regadora’ (Google Maps location). It’s a statue of a young woman watering plants with a long stick. ‘Abuelo y Niño’ (Google Maps location) is a statue of a grandfather and a little boy hanging up plant boxes together. Finally, there is ‘El Pozo de las Flores’ (Google Maps location). It’s located a bit further outside the center. It is a statue of a girl looking at her grandmother repotting a plant.
Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba
If you feel like visiting a museum but don’t want to wander around for hours, I recommend the Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba. It is a small museum that you can visit for free as a resident of the EU. A locker costs one euro, but you get it back.
There are a few spaces with religious art, modern art, and sculpture. For us, half an hour was enough for this museum.
Palacio de la Merced
Near the Plaza de Colon, you will find an old monastery that now serves as the provincial house of Córdoba. The Palacio de la Merced is a special building. It is a beautiful example of the Cordoban Baroque style. On weekdays, you can go in to see the patio, and that is worth it. Here, and in some rooms, the province organizes all kinds of interesting exhibitions by Spanish and international artists.
Capilla Mudéjar de San Bartolomé
For € 1.50 (about $1.65), you can visit the small chapel of the San Bartolomé church. The visit consists of a small courtyard with a richly decorated chapel. Construction started in the 14th century, but it was never completely finished.
The chapel is called ‘mudéjar’ after the architectural style. Mudéjar style is a combination of Muslim and Christian architectural styles. The clever choices are also characteristic: wood instead of expensive stone vaults and brick walls with decorative decorations. You can see it beautifully at the entrance of the chapel. By the way, those decorations are never of people – that didn’t fit with the Islamic faith of the builders. Instead, they used beautiful abstract patterns.
Excursion to Medina Azahara
About a fifteen-minute drive outside of Córdoba lies Medina Azahara, an archaeological site that turns out to be surprisingly popular. Buy your tickets (€10 per person) at least a day in advance at the tourist office (here) and take the early bus at 9:15 because there are enormous queues around noon. We were quite surprised by this: we had no idea that this was such a popular attraction.
The visit starts in the museum with a video showing what this ‘lost city’ once looked like – handy because you need quite a bit of imagination at the ruins themselves. The city was a thriving center for only 80 years before looters made off with the valuables. Many elements can now be found in buildings from Seville to Morocco.
You take the shuttle bus to the site, where you should especially pay attention to the horseshoe-shaped arches that were once as impressive as those in the Mezquita. The whole excursion takes about four hours – that seems long, but time flies by.
The tourism office option is without a guide, but you can also book guided tours online. For example at GetYourGuide or Viator.
Parking in Córdoba
In Córdoba itself, you don’t actually need a car. In fact, it’s inconvenient because parking spaces are scarce. There are various parking garages, such as Parking La Ribera (Google Maps location) and Parking calle sevilla 5 (Google Maps location). But unfortunately, they are full when I’m there. That’s why I end up on the other side of the river at free parking spaces. That’s a bit further to walk, but hey, it’s free. Try parking for free in Córdoba here or at Arcera Mira al Rio (here).
I was there with my own car, but if you are still looking for a rental car, check out Rentalcars.com or DiscoverCars. Compare prices and conditions carefully!
Accommodation in Córdoba
To be honest, I find the accommodations in Córdoba all on the pricey side. From my shortlist, I eventually choose Rincón de Regina. A small apartment just outside the center with a kitchen and shower. It is perfect for a long weekend for two.
Curious about my accommodation shortlist?
Córdoba FAQ
How many days do you need in Córdoba?
You need one day to see the most important sights of Córdoba (such as Mezquita, patios, and Alcázar), but it is better to set aside two or three days for Córdoba so that you can also see the lesser-known sights and do some tours.
What is Córdoba famous for?
Córdoba’s most famous attraction is the Mezquita. The city is also known for its patios full of flowers.
More Spain inspiration?
Helpful links for your Spain trip
- Accommodation. Booking.com is always a popular choice. But you could also check Homecamper | campspace or Hostelworld for more options. HostelWorld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. You can also check out WithLocals. Book ‘free’ walking tours at Freetour.com or GuruWalk and try Baja Bikes for bike tours.
- Attractions and museums. Interested in a 5% discount on museums and other attractions? Use this discount code at Tiqets: KIMOPREIS22
- Bus and train. If you want to travel by bus or train to or in Spain, Busbud and Omio are excellent companies for planning your transportation.
- Boat. You can take a boat from Barcelona to the Balearic Islands, or take a ferry between the islands. Check out the options at Direct Ferries.
- Car rental. Compare your options at Discover Cars and Rentalcars.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? You could try Expedia or CheapOair.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Travel guides. I like paper travel guides to browse through, for sale at Amazon, among others.
- Yoga retreat. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Spain.
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