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Latest update: 21 January 2025
Three thousand years of history are depicted on 16 massive pillars reaching 115 feet (35 meters) into the sky. Welcome to The Chronicles of Georgia, a gigantic monument offering fantastic views over the city and Tbilisi’s “sea.”
Money problems?
Originally, a large Stalin statue was supposed to stand on top of the Keeni hill, but that plan was nixed – or rather, it was replaced by 16 pillars. Fun fact: The Chronicles of Georgia monument isn’t actually finished. Construction began in 1985 and came to a halt in 2003. My guess? They ran out of money.
The Chronicles of Georgia by Zurab Tsereteli
The Chronicles of Georgia is free to visit. From the parking lot, I climb a long stairway. On the first plateau, a large plaque explains that The Chronicles of Georgia is dedicated to the 3,000th anniversary of Georgian history and the 2,000th anniversary of Christianity. Zurab Tsereteli is the mastermind behind The Chronicles of Georgia. He’s a big deal in Georgia’s art scene – he founded the MoMA in Tbilisi (which showcases lots of his work) and created the statue at Freedom Square.
Stories all around
The ascending stairway is flanked by two pillars that look like they could’ve been plucked straight out of Greece. Then you reach the main attraction: 16 pillars made of bronze, copper, and stone. They’re arranged in the shape of a cross. The pillars are decorated with reliefs telling different stories. The bottom section shows biblical scenes, the middle features important figures from Georgian history, and the top layer depicts Georgian traditions.
Chronicle or Chronicles?
Some folks call The Chronicles of Georgia the Stonehenge of Georgia. Well, sure, they’re both made of pillars. But Stonehenge dates back to 3000-1520 BC, while The Chronicles of Georgia is from 1985. So really, the only similarity is that they both have pillars.
By the way, I often see it written as “The Chronicle of Georgia” instead of “The Chronicles.” But since the entrance sign clearly shows it with an ‘s’, I’m sticking with the plural version.
Guessing the Georgian chronicles
Walking around here is pretty mind-blowing. I wander between the pillars and along the elevated section beside them. It’s cool to see The Chronicles of Georgia from different angles. Interesting stuff, though I think it would’ve been even better with a guide. Many of the depictions don’t ring any bells for me, and there aren’t any information plaques anywhere. That’s a bummer. But I hear there’s no official documentation about the different reliefs anyway, so everyone’s just guessing what they’re looking at. Though with a guide, you’d at least get an educated guess.
Church and views
Behind the monument, there’s a small church. Unfortunately, it was closed during my visit. Too bad, because I heard the paintings inside are absolutely gorgeous. You also get amazing views of the “Tbilisi Sea” reservoir from this side. And it’s a perfect spot to see just how massive and densely packed Tbilisi is—so many buildings, so close together. Here’s a fun fact: out of Georgia’s 3.7 million residents, 1.4 million live in Tbilisi!
Not yet a tourist hotspot?
Surprisingly, The Chronicles of Georgia hasn’t made it into the Lonely Planet guide yet. But hey, that’s cool—it keeps it a bit of a secret. Though I’ve read on other blogs that it can get pretty crowded in summer, I’m here in winter, and it’s pretty chill.
Best time to visit The Chronicles of Georgia
For the best photos, try to visit The Chronicles of Georgia in the late afternoon, just before sunset. If you’re lucky, you might catch it when it lights up in the evening.
I’m here in the middle of the day when it’s cloudy. But it’s worth hanging around to see if the weather changes. And for me, it does! The sky completely clears up, so I get to take another round of photos of the monument. Do I now have like 100,000 pictures of The Chronicles of Georgia? Maybe…
Half an hour should be plenty for your visit, depending on how closely you want to examine the reliefs.
Facilities at the monument
The parking lot has some food trucks selling snacks and drinks but no café or restaurant. There is a paid restroom. It’s only 1 GEL (about 35 cents), and when you gotta go, you gotta go, right?
How to get to The Chronicles of Georgia
The Chronicles of Georgia is in Tbilisi, but it’s so far north that walking isn’t an option. You can take public transport, but you’ll still need to walk quite a bit.
Your best bet is either driving yourself or getting a ride. A Bolt taxi is easily arranged, or you can book a driver through GoTrip. From downtown Tbilisi, it’s about a 30-minute drive.
Here’s the Google Maps location.
To be honest, having a guide at The Chronicles of Georgia isn’t a bad idea at all. You might want to consider joining a tour. Some tours focus solely on The Chronicles of Georgia, or you can opt for combination tours. Check out the options on GetYourGuide, or look at Viator‘s offerings.
More Georgia travel inspiration?
Useful links for your Georgia trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook, and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare prices and insurance coverage, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com. In Georgia, a private transfer or tour with a private driver is often very affordable. Use GoTrip for this.
- Reading tip. If you like reading, I recommend buying this fantastic book: The Eighth Life (for Brilka). It is about generations of women living and suffering in Georgia. More than 1000 pages, so get cozy and comfortable!
- Travel guides. I like paper travel guides to browse through, for sale at Amazon, among others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train and Bus Travel by train or bus through Georgia with Busbud, 12Go, or Omio.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Start your search at Expedia or CheapOair.
- Yoga retreat. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Georgia.
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