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Latest update: 8 July 2023
In Reims and Épernay, I get overwhelmed with all the champagne around me – champagne is literally EVERYWHERE. But in Troyes, I need to hunt for bubbles – even though the city IS located in the Champagne region. In this quiet city, you will find more “half-timbered houses” than champagne houses, and that is actually pretty awesome too.
Things to do in Troyes
You will find Troyes in France, in the southern part of the Champagne region, in the Aube department. If you look at the map, the city is shaped like a champagne cork- if you use a little (or a lot) imagination. The people who work in the tourism sector and the souvenir sellers are happy to point it out to you. Many people visit the city because of the outlet stores (there are more than 200!!) in the area, the old city center and because it is an excellent base for day trips to, for example, Reims or Épernay or smaller villages and nature.
There are no champagne houses in Troyes, so you’ll have to rent a car (try Sunny Cars or EasyTerra) to explore the champagne houses in the area. Find and book your options here.
The city of Troyes in France
It strikes me how clean Troyes is. When I go to the bakery early in the morning, cleaners have already taken it upon themselves to rid Troyes of the remnants of the day before. The center is small and manageable by foot and has both modern pieces and places where you feel like you’re in a fairytale. I’ve seen houses like this in Strasbourg, but not nearly as many as here in Troyes.
![Walking in Troyes, France: Kim walks past the old half-timbered houses](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Wandelen-in-Troyes-Frankrijk-1024x768.jpg?resize=770%2C578&ssl=1)
The “half-timbered houses” have a skeleton of wooden beams, which you can see from the outside. They date from the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance. Fortunately, the houses are usually cherished and well-maintained. Unfortunately, sometimes the advertising and signboards stand out ugly against the unique architectural style – I guess that’s the price we pay for the passing of time. Nevertheless, Troyes offers plenty of things to do, even if you (like me) skip the shopping.
![Half-timbered houses Troyes, France: picturesque street with half-timbered houses on both sides](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Vakwerkhuizen-Troyes-Frankrijk-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Typical half-timbered houses Troyes: houses with wooden beams](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Typische-vakwerkhuizen-Troyes-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
![Leaning half-timbered houses Troyes: empty street with old half-timbered houses with beams on the left](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Scheve-vakwerkhuizen-Troyes-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
![Leaning old houses Troyes: narrow road with leaning houses](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Scheve-oude-huizen-Troyes-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
![Shopping street Troyes night: half-timbered houses with shop windows at the bottom](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Winkelstraat-Troyes-avond-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
Tip! Are you staying in the Champagne region a bit longer? Find out what you can do in Reims, Châlons-en-Champagneor Épernay.
The tourism office reveals the secrets of Troyes
I’m staying in Troyes for two nights, mainly to discover the city itself. The tourism office right in the center is the best starting point. You can book all kinds of activities here (or do so online in advance).
My advice: start with the movie about Troyes and then go on a city walk with the audio tour. You’ll get a good sense of where you are and what you can do. But, first, watch the film at the tourist office. It is a beautifully made film full of digital effects that covers the history of Troyes at high speed. It only takes fifteen minutes and will only cost you a few euros.
Google Maps location tourism office
![Troyes tourist office: entrance to tourism office with large glass doors and windows](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Toerismebureau-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
Troyes audio tour
The tourism office has developed an audio tour that is also available in English and Dutch. You can find the route online, but it is much easier to pick up an audio guide. There are no fewer than 39 sights on the route, and they all have an explanation in your audio guide. Some explanations are quite long, so decide on the spot which sights and areas you would like to know more about. Keep the map in your hand because the arrows on the ground are sometimes hard to find. With the audio tour, you see pretty much the entire city, including all the sights, cozy streets, and many churches of Troyes.
![Audio tour Troyes signage: copper-colored arrow depicting a knight](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Audiotour-Troyes-bewegwijzering-1024x768.jpg?resize=770%2C578&ssl=1)
Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte: garden and museum
The Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte is undoubtedly worth a short visit because it has a beautiful entrance gate and beautifully landscaped garden. There is a very relaxed atmosphere. Some people stroll around admiring the plants, while others settle on a bench with a book. It used to be a hospital, and today you can peek inside a part of the building to see what it was like in the past and admire the old pharmacy. Unfortunately, it was closed during my visit, but you get a bit of an idea of what to expect on Tripadvisor.
![Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte gate Troyes: stately gate with many golden details](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Ho%CC%82tel-Dieu-le-Comte-poort-Troyes-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
![Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte Garden Troyes](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Ho%CC%82tel-Dieu-le-Comte-tuin-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
The churches of Troyes
Troyes has a nice collection of churches. Each church is even more impressive than the last. Be sure to check out the St-Pierre-St-Paul cathedral and the St-Urbain Basilica. If you follow the audio tour of the tourism office, you will pass all the churches of Troyes. Almost all of them are free to enter. But do pay special attention to the stained glass: very beautiful! If you are impressed by all that stained glass, check out the stained glass museum.
![Cathedral Troyes](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/kathedraal-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Detail cathedral Troyes](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Detail-kathedraal-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Troyes church: facade of a church against a blue sky](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Troyes-kerk-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
![Churches Troyes: large church with a turret](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Kerken-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Troyes churches: inside the church](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Troyes-kerken-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
![stained glass Troyes](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/glas-in-lood-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
Jardin des innocentes in Troyes
It is only a tiny garden, but a lovely one. It is a nice, serene place in Troyes. I actually bump into it by accident because I’m always curiously looking through gates and around corners in hopes of discovering a hidden gem. The garden is beautifully green in the summer, but it looks so well maintained that I think it is worth it in the winter too.
![Troyes jardin des innocentes: green garden adjacent to a church](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Troyes-jardin-des-innocentes-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
![Garden church jardin des innocentes: dense garden next to a church](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Tuin-kerk-jardin-des-innocentes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
Ruelle des Chats
This small alley is called the cat alley. Why? Because cats can quickly move from roof to roof as the houses slope towards each other at the top. I haven’t seen a single cat, by the way. It’s only a short alley, but definitely nice to walk through – it’ll only take you a minute. You will also find several good restaurants in this little part of Troyes.
![Ruelle des Chats Troyes: street sign and a picture of a cat](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Ruelle-des-Chats-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Alley Ruelle des Chats: narrow alley with tall houses sloping forward](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Steegje-Ruelle-des-Chats-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
Modern art in the city
Sculptures are put in various public places in Troyes. You will come across them naturally as you wander through the streets. There are sculptures of historical figures, but also a large illuminated heart that weighs no less than two tons, a kissing girl or children and animals playing.
![Le Coeur de Troyes: large, red-lit heart at water sprinklers](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Le-Coeur-de-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Troyes girl kissing statue: statue of a girl bending over to kiss, a human man leans towards her](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Beeld-kussend-meisje-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Statues of children playing and animals Troyes: group runs and jumps towards the water](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Beelden-spelende-kinderen-dieren-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
Saint-Loup Museum
The Saint-Loup Museum is the museum of fine arts and archaeology. There is a little bit of everything. Downstairs is full of taxidermy animals, and upstairs you will find endless paintings —especially many from centuries ago, but also some more modern works. There is also a room with sculptures. It is because of the variety of exhibitions that this is a lovely museum to visit. Count on about an hour of visiting time.
![Saint-Loup Museum of taxidermy birds Troyes: a collection taxidermy birds](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Saint-Loup-Museum-opgezette-vogels-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Saint-Loup Museum of taxidermy animals Troyes: guy watching bison and deer](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Saint-Loup-Museum-opgezette-dieren-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Saint-Loup Museum Troyes](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Saint-Loup-Museum-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Saint-Loup Museum: high corridor with paintings on both side](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Saint-Loup-Museum-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
Attractions near Troyes
A little road trip through the Champagne region can only turn out well. Alongside the roads, you will find beautiful sunflower fields and vineyards, and there are more than enough typical French villages to drive past or make a quick stop. A visit to Reims or Épernay is also within easy reach of Troyes.
![Sunflowers Champagne region: field of sunflowers along the road](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Zonnebloemen-Champagnestreek-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Road trip along vineyards Champagne region: road next to a vineyard](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Roadtrippen-langs-wijngaarden-Champagnestreek-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Sunflowers France](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Zonnebloemen-Frankrijk-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
Napoléon Museum
The town of Brienne-le-Château is about a 45-minute drive away. And there is… a chateau, yes. But, unfortunately, during my visit, it was not equipped for visitors and looked more like the office of a government agency? So admire it from a distance (that way, you can’t see that it is not so well maintained either).
![Castle Brienne-le-Château: long driveway with a castle in the distance](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Kasteel-Brienne-le-Château-1024x768.jpg?resize=770%2C578&ssl=1)
But, the village also houses the Musée Napoléon, and that is for sure worth a visit. The museum building used to be a military school. When Napoléon was ten, he went to school here. In the museum, you mainly see pictures of Napoléon, and you get an idea of his career. He came from humble origins and stood out as a military leader because of his strategic insight: he regularly defeated larger armies with fewer men. Because of the highly exaggerated and romanticized stories, he became world-famous among the French, so he became ruler of France. But how reliable exactly are all those stories? Well… at least they feed the legend.
![Musée Napoléon Brienne-le-Château: letters Musée Napoléon on the wall](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Muse%CC%81e-Napole%CC%81on-Brienne-le-Cha%CC%82teau-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Napoleon museum Champagne region: man reads signs next to the drawings in the museum](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Napoleon-museum-Champagnestreek-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Signage Napoleon Museum France: old signage](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Bewegwijzering-Napole%CC%81on-museum-Frankrijk-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
Champagne village Montgueux
The village of Montgueux is also close to Troyes. It is the champagne village of this part of the Champagne region. Here you will find many champagne houses to visit. In theory, you can go on spec, but I advise you to contact the champagne house of your choice beforehand to see if they can accommodate you. The champagne houses in Montgueux are, as far as I can judge, a little less ready for tourists than in Reims or Épernay, where you can simply book tours online. Find champagne tours in the Troyes area here.
![Montgueux Champagne region: tall artwork along the road to announce the village of Montgueux](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Montgueux-Champagnestreek-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Vineyard Champagne region Montgueux: vine branches with a bush of red roses in front](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Wijngaard-Champagnestreek-Montgueux-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
Restaurant tips in Troyes
The area around the tourism office and the town hall is the heart of the center. If you want good food, I advise you to walk a little further. The square feels a bit like a tourist square, the Leidseplein (Amsterdam tourist hotspot) of Troyes, so to speak. Keep in mind that many restaurants close after lunch, around 2 pm, and then open again in the evening. And, if you want to eat somewhere specific, do make a reservation.
![Troyes Center Restaurants](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Centrum-Troyes-restaurants-1024x768.jpg?resize=770%2C578&ssl=1)
Restaurant Chez Felix
Chez Felix is a lovely modern restaurant with retro decoration: spacious, lots of color, and pretty furniture. On summer days, you can lunch or dine in the courtyard. The menu is not too extensive, and the dishes are simple but tasty. Think of a huge tomato salad with burrata, a sirloin steak, foie gras, or an andouillette. Oh, and the name Chez Felix? I’m guessing it’s from the cat food because the restaurant is on Ruelle des Chats. But who knows, maybe the owner or chef is also called Felix?
![Restaurant Chez Felix Troyes: interior restaurant with blue corner sofa](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Restaurant-Chez-Felix-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Chez Felix Troyes: menu of Chez Felix](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Chez-Felix-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Chez Felix Troyes burrata: burrata and tomato salad](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Chez-Felix-Troyes-burrata-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
Tip! Fancy a local delicacy? Try the andouillette: a sausage made from entrails. I’ll admit it right away: I was afraid to try it.
B.A.M. (Bar à Manger)
B.A.M. has only been around since 2020 but is already a culinary highlight of Troyes. If you only eat out once in Troyes, go here. They have a few tables, and it is pretty popular, so if they don’t have a place for dinner, go for lunch. The chefs make such beautiful, tasty dishes. Every day there is a new but limited menu. That makes decision-making a lot less stressful! B.A.M. is located in a beautiful old building, so you can also see the typical wooden beams inside. The furnishings are chic, but the atmosphere is relaxed. Highly recommended!
![Duck restaurant B.A.M. Troyes: duck salad](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Eend-restaurant-B.A.M.-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Restaurant Bar a Manger Troyes: fish with hummus](https://i1.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Restaurant-Bar-a-Manger-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Restaurant Bar a Manger dining room Troyes: bright, spacious interior with blue velvet dining chairs](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Restaurant-Bar-a-Manger-eetzaal-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
If I had had more time in Troyes, I would certainly have liked to check out these restaurants; maybe you can try them out:
Drinks in Troyes
Troyes is full of outdoor cafes, and strangely enough, those are not full of champagne. That is a bit different than in Reims or Épernay! In those cities, I had the idea that everyone was constantly drinking champagne. Here I mainly see soft drinks, beer, and wine. But luckily you can order it almost everywhere.
Wine Bar Le Millésimé
A good place to have a drink at the end of the afternoon is the wine bar Le Millésimé, especially if you can sit outside. The bar is at a square where many people pass (great people-watching!), and you have a stunning view of the church.
![Champagne wine bar Le Millésimé Troyes](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Champagne-wijnbar-Le-Millesime-Troyes-768x1024.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&ssl=1)
Rue Champeaux
In the evening, it gets fun and cozy in the Rue Champeaux. It’s a narrow alley with many outdoor seats. At Tante Reine, you can enjoy a good glass of wine or champagne, and at Chez Philippe, you can do some proper people-watching too – while enjoying a glass of wine and cheese, of course.
Rue Champeaux onGoogle Maps
![Rosé Champagne Rue Champeaux Troyes: glass of rosé champagne on the table](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Rose%CC%81-Champagne-Rue-Champeaux-Troyes-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
![Drinks Troyes: evening in Troyes in the nightlife area](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Borrelen-Troyes-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
Barci-Barla
Barci-Barla is a bit more student-like. The beer flows freely towards the outdoor seats under the trees. The audience is a bit younger and more exuberant, and there seems to be a band playing regularly. You can also eat tapas at Barci-Barla. I haven’t tried that, so that’s why I listed the place at the bar options instead of at the restaurants.
Update 2023: it looks like Barci-Barla may have closed its doors and has been replaced by Bistrot Nouveau.
![Barci-Barla terrace Troyes: terrace under the trees in the evening](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Barci-Barla-terras-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?resize=770%2C578&ssl=1)
Sleeping tip in Troyes
I spend the night in Troyes right in the center. It’s a quiet city, so I don’t notice any noise. But perhaps very light sleepers should divert a little further. My Airbnb is on the first floor of such a beautiful Medieval/Renaissance house. In the hallway, it smells like the Utrecht wharf cellars, if you know what I mean. Being so old, the layout of the apartment is anything but logical. For example, the bathroom is narrow and elongated with a toilet in the back. Very weird, but that’s precisely the charm. I think it’s a lovely apartment in the middle of the center, although I’m not that enthusiastic about the mattress. But hey, it’s okay for a few nights. You can book Chez Isaac on Airbnb. Or find more options at Booking.com.
![Airbnb Troyes: living room with sofa, table, and yellow chair in front of the window](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Airbnb-Troyes-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
![Overnight Troyes: a made bed with a pile of towels](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Overnachten-Troyes-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Spend the night Troyes Airbnb: details apartment (candle holders)](https://i0.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Overnachten-Troyes-Airbnb-1024x768.jpg?ssl=1)
![Troyes stay: chill moment in the apartment](https://i2.wp.com/kimopreis.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Verblijf-Troyes-768x1024.jpg?ssl=1)
More inspiration for travel in France?
![](https://i0.wp.com/tripunlocked.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/France-blog-overview.jpg?resize=770%2C433&ssl=1)
Helpful links for your France trip
- Accommodation. All-time favorites: Booking.com and Campspace for unique camping spots. Rather stay in a hostel? Check out Hostelworld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide and Viator. You can find other good options at WithLocals. Check out Freetour and GuruWalk for ‘free’ walking tours, and for bike tours, try Baja Bikes. If you’re into wine: check out all the wine-related activities at Rue des Vignerons.
- Attractions and museums. Book museum and attraction tickets with Tiqets and get a 5% discount with this code: KIMOPREIS22.
- Car rental. Want to compare prices? Check out Discover Cars and Rental Cars.
- Flights. Definitely compare prices! Try Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Money. Your debit and credit cards may not be accepted everywhere. When you travel, you could opt for a Revolut card as an additional card.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Maybe Expedia or CheapOair has a good option.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train and bus. Travel by train to France with NS International, or plan your trip via Trainline. Or find deals on trains and busses in France via Busbud, Omio, or 12Go.
- Travel guides. I love the practical travel guides from Lonely Planet, buy them at Amazon.
- Yoga retreat. And what about a yoga retreat in France?
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First published: September 2021. Updated since!