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Latest update: 3 January 2025
It’s quite the tongue-twister: Uplistsikhe, the abandoned cave city in central Georgia. It’s one of the oldest settlements in the Caucasus region. This city, carved into the rocks, reminds me of a lunar landscape and the Flintstones all at once! Uplistsikhe is easy to visit, and I’ll tell you all about it.
Cave cities in Georgia
Uplistsikhe isn’t the only cave city in Georgia. Vardzia is said to be the most beautiful, and then there’s also Davit Gareja (the cave monastery), though the section you can visit there is quite a bit smaller.
Incredible manpower
At first glance, the abandoned cave city of Uplistsikhe might not look like an architectural masterpiece: massive rocks and rough caves. But when I think about how long ago people put in an absolutely incredible amount of work to turn these rocks into a city, I can’t help but be amazed. How did they do it? Without machines, without “proper” tools.
According to legend, enslaved people who worked here were given tools with iron on one end and gold on the other. Once you had completely worn down the iron end working on the rocks, you were free and got to keep the gold.
Ancient cave complex
Uplistsikhe means “the lord’s fortress.” But that’s not referring to God. According to archaeologists, this was mainly a place where the sun goddess was worshipped. The “lord” was the leader of different groups in the Kartli region: the Upali. And that’s where the name Uplistsikhe comes from.
The cave city sits along the Mtkvari River, where the first caves were carved into the rocks centuries ago. Between the 6th century BC and the 1st century AD, Uplistsikhe developed into an important political and religious center of Kartli. Kartli is the name of the region, and it also includes Tbilisi.
The inner city area you can visit is called Shica Qalaqi. It’s a whopping 40,000 square meters, and that’s still only half of what it used to be! During the Middle Ages, some parts were reshaped or excavated. When the Arabs occupied Tbilisi in 645, the Christian kings of Kartli moved here, and it became an important trade center on the Silk Road from Asia to Europe. At its peak, about 20,000 people lived here.
Around the 9th-10th century, the Uplistsulis Eklesia church was built. It looks a bit out of place in this setting – almost modern! But in 1240, the Mongols destroyed most of it beyond repair.
Uplistsikhe: bare and rolling
I follow the long steel staircase and continue walking over the rocks. It’s pretty solid ground, but there’s nothing to hold onto. If you have mobility issues, I’d skip visiting Uplistsikhe. It’s also not great with a stroller. Otherwise, sturdy shoes are enough since the rocks are more rolling than steep.
It’s such a weird feeling that these bare rocks I’m walking on used to be the main street. On both sides, stones, caves, protrusions, and more served as theaters, temples, or pharmacies. I’ll be honest: you must use your imagination quite a bit!
It turns out that Uplistsikhe isn’t completely uninhabited: a couple of stray dogs call it home. They happily walk along with the tourists, and I make friends with a small dog who just had puppies. If I could, I would have taken her home. The stray dogs in Georgia are just so sweet. I keep getting distracted by them during my visit, and now even while writing, haha! Anyway, back to the cave city.
A full-fledged city
Uplistsikhe consisted of a lower, central, and upper section. It had a defensive wall, a moat, various passages, a tunnel, streets, water pipes, and drainage channels. A real city with all the bells and whistles. But as I mentioned, it’s mostly bare now. Archaeologists have been excavating here since 1950. From what I understand, restoration and preservation only really got going in 2004, when the cave city was opened to the public. Decorations and details have long since disappeared.
On your way back, you can enter a tunnel behind the old entrance gate to leave the cave city. This used to be a secret escape route but was also used to fetch water. Now you walk down the stairs – that must have been quite a challenge back in the day!
Visiting Uplistsikhe yourself
From Tbilisi, it’s about a 90-minute drive to Uplistsikhe. Once you escape the busy city traffic, it’s a nice drive. Haven’t rented a car yet? Compare prices and insurance coverage at DiscoverCars and Rentalcars.com.
If you’d rather not drive yourself but don’t want to join a tour either, GoTrip is the perfect solution. You can arrange a private driver with them, which is super affordable in Georgia.
The entrance fee for Uplistsikhe is 15 GEL, and it’s sometimes cheaper in winter months – though what exactly are the rules for that? No idea. Kids under 6 get in free always.
On-site, you can rent an audio guide (15 GEL in 2024) or explore the cave city with a real guide (45 GEL in 2024). This is worth it since there aren’t any information signs. Though I must say, my guide spoke so monotonously that I missed some things, but that’s still better than nothing!
Tours to Uplistsikhe
If you go on a tour to Uplistsikhe, your visit is usually combined with other attractions in this part of Georgia. For example, with the Jvari monastery, a visit to Mtskheta, and the town of Gori.
Josef Stalin was born in Gori and lived there until he was four. When he ruled the Soviet Union, the city center was completely rebuilt to his taste. You can visit the Stalin Museum in Gori. I didn’t do it, but it’s apparently quite the tribute to Stalin. Not exactly objective. Good to know: Georgians generally aren’t proud of him. There’s lots of debate about whether he deserves a museum at all.
Tours in Georgia are generally quite affordable (read: cheap). But do pay attention to what’s included. For example, entrance to the Stalin Museum usually isn’t included.
Good to know when visiting Uplistsikhe
Entrance fee Uplistsikhe
As mentioned, it’s 15 GEL, and small children (under 6) get in free. An audio guide costs 15 GEL, and a human guide costs 45 GEL – these are the prices as of January 2024.
How long does a visit to Uplistsikhe take?
You’ll need about 1.5 hours total for a visit to Uplistsikhe. That gives you plenty of time to wander, take photos, and pet the dogs. The stray dogs of Georgia are super friendly 99% of the time.
Dress code
You can view the church from the inside but must dress appropriately. That means men must wear long pants and women must wear long skirts. Women also need to cover their hair. Wraps and wrap skirts are available at the entrance.
Facilities
There’s a large parking lot at the entrance to Uplistsikhe. You can also buy food and drinks here. There’s a toilet, but when I put a coin in the tray to open the door, it stayed closed.
Right after the ticket office, you’ll also find toilets and a nice café where you can sit outside.
Best time to visit
You can visit Uplistsikhe all year round, every day of the week, but keep in mind the heat in the summer months. There’s hardly any shade, so it can get pretty hot in the middle of the day. Try to plan your visit in the morning or late afternoon. The cave city opens at 10 AM – please double-check the current opening times!
I’m here in winter, and according to the guide, I’m super lucky with the wind. Usually, it whips right through here. Today, it’s almost windless, and I can play with my new drone without any problems…
More Georgia travel inspiration?
Useful links for your Georgia trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook, and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare prices and insurance coverage, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com. In Georgia, a private transfer or tour with a private driver is often very affordable. Use GoTrip for this.
- Reading tip. If you like reading, I recommend buying this fantastic book: The Eighth Life (for Brilka). It is about generations of women living and suffering in Georgia. More than 1000 pages, so get cozy and comfortable!
- Travel guides. I like paper travel guides to browse through, for sale at Amazon, among others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train and Bus Travel by train or bus through Georgia with Busbud, 12Go, or Omio.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Start your search at Expedia or CheapOair.
- Yoga retreat. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Georgia.
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