This post is also available in:
Latest update: 6 June 2025
Catania in Sicily may be located on the coast, but it’s Mount Etna that steals the show. From here, you can easily take a trip to Etna, but Catania itself is definitely worth visiting too. The city center is on the UNESCO list for good reason, and the food culture will make you want to stay at least another month.
Living with (and surviving) Etna
It sounds pretty cool: a city in the shadow of Etna. But it’s also dangerous. Etna is Europe’s most active volcano. It was a long time ago, but in 1669, lava reached the city, destroying many buildings and taking lives. The city changed completely. For example, Castello Ursino once stood on a cliff by the sea, but lava flows have caused it to now be about a kilometer (0.6 miles) inland. And even when I’m there, there are small black ash particles everywhere along the road. Thanks to Etna, which is also pretty active in 2024.
But the lava is also put to good use. In the historic center of Catania, many of the beautiful baroque buildings are made from black lava stone and white limestone. And, of course, countless excursions to Etna are organized from Catania. You should definitely visit Etna, but let’s start by exploring the city…
Catania for foodies
I’m pretty overwhelmed in Catania by the huge number of trattorias, enotecas, and chioscos. There are lovely outdoor cafes and squares everywhere and plenty of street food to be had. There’s so much to eat, so little time.
Pasta alla Norma
THE dish from Catania that you absolutely must order once is pasta alla Norma. Norma refers to the opera Norma by composer Vincenzo Bellini, who was born in Catania, and his opera was performed at Teatro Bellini. It’s a simple pasta dish featuring eggplant, basil, tomato sauce, and salted ricotta. The latter isn’t easy to find where I’m from (the Netherlands), but you can get pretty close with this recipe.
The chioscos of Catania
When wandering through the city, also stop by a chiosco (a kiosk) sometime. Do as the Sicilians do, and buy a refreshing drink (like sparkling water with lemon juice and salt – seltz limone e sale – or simply fresh orange juice). After work, it’s a meeting place, and even after going out, quite a few people end the evening at a choice.
The fish market: Pescheria di Catania
The fish market is a wonderfully lively affair. Tough fishermen sell their catch at the market. When I make my rounds, there are mostly local visitors at the fish market. Just a few tourists wander among them. The restaurants also like to shop here as you can buy basically anything from mega-large swordfish to tubs full of mussels and slimy squid – and a whole lot of things I don’t even recognize. For one euro, you can slurp an oyster at the market. And if you feel like having lunch at the market, then mm!! Trattoria (here) is recommended.
The market is open daily from 7 AM to 2 PM.
Arancini at Munnu Arancinu
Everywhere in Sicily, you can get an arancini, an ideal snack. It’s a fried ball of risotto with filling. And in Catania, you’d better go to Munnu Arancinu because they have an incredible number of flavors there.
Restaurant L’Oste Pazzo
Restaurant L’Oste Pazzo is a gamble – and a really good one. My best friend and I are hungry and happen to park our rental car pretty much in front of this restaurant’s door. Because we’re on the verge of being hangry, we just want to eat NOW. And damn, what a good place this is. Nice, relaxed service, a mix of Italians and tourists, and for €15 ($16), we have a primi and secondo of simple, flavorful, local ingredients.
Tip! Want Berlin vibes for drinks? Go to Vulari (Google Maps location). Wines, wines, wines? Try VIVI wine & cocktail bar (Google Maps location). And if you’re hungry, go to Via Santa Filomena for lots, lots of eateries (Google Maps location).
Catania for history lovers
Catania was destroyed by lava in the past but has since been rebuilt. The inscription on the city gate Porta Ferdinandea is telling: Melior de cinere surgo (I rise stronger from the ashes).
The city center is surreal. One baroque building is more beautiful than the next. You don’t need to look for special buildings, everything is gorgeous. Even the buildings where ugly souvenirs are sold are pretty. But beware: as soon as you get outside the historic center, Catania is mainly a busy city with dreary housing blocks, wide roads, and little feeling for la dolce vita. Quickly hop back into the center!
Piazza del Duomo
Like every self-respecting city or town in Sicily, Catania has quite a few churches. The most important is, of course, the Duomo of Catania. The Basilica Sant’Agata is free to visit and really worth it. At set times, you can also climb the bell tower for €5 ($5.50) to enjoy the view over Catania from the balcony. The name Agata refers to the patron saint of the city. Agata didn’t give in to the seduction attempts of a high-ranking Roman man. That didn’t sit well with him, and he had her breasts cut off – you can read all about this story (in Dutch) at Ciao Tutti.
On the square, you’ll also find a fountain with a little elephant made of lava stone. The little elephant also appears in the city’s coat of arms. From the square, you can walk to the city gate of Porta Uzeda in just a few steps. The dark stones make for a pretty picture.
Teatro Antico
On a large street full of stately houses is a small entrance to the Greek-Roman theater of Catania. The entrance gives no indication at all that behind it lies a large theater. Much of the Teatro Antico was buried under lava, but parts can still be seen. There’s ongoing restoration, so the €14 ($15) entrance fee (in 2024) seems to be put to good use. It’s crazy to think this is like a backyard!
There’s actually a second amphitheater in Catania. It’s located in an even crazier spot: between two busy roads and largely hidden under housing blocks.
Castello Ursino
The Ursino castle was originally located by the sea, but due to lava flows, it became enclosed entirely and now stands within the city. The castle now houses a museum with archaeological finds and paintings. I skipped it and just walked around the castle. It’s a fairly square building with four round corner towers. It’s certainly not the most beautiful castle ever. However, due to its lava story, it’s still interesting to have a quick look.
Teatro Massimo Bellini
Teatro Massimo Bellini is an opera house. It opened in 1890, and the first performance was the opera Norma by Vincenzo Bellini. Hence also the name pasta alla norma for the famous Catanian pasta dish. You can buy a ticket for a performance or take a tour of the opera house. You’ll need to get in touch with the theatre for that though.
The opera hall is actually on a very atmospheric little square. I order a coffee at Caffè Opera, but it’s perhaps the least tasty coffee I’ve had in Sicily. The cornetto is delicious though.
ART & FUN District
A bit out of the center, I accidentally end up in the ART & FUN district. This is a spruced-up neighborhood with murals and cheerful planters. Nice to stroll through, but be careful because a street further, it feels like I’ve ended up in a dodgy neighborhood. That’s probably why they spruced up this bit, to make it more friendly.
Catania for outdoor enthusiasts
Escape the hustle and bustle of the city in one of Catania’s green outdoor spaces. There’s the botanical garden Orto Botanico dell’Università di Catania (Google Maps location) featuring exotic and indigenous plant species. Or go to the city park Parco Maestranze (Google Maps location).
But if you’re really looking for nature, you need to leave the city behind. The La Timpa nature reserve is a half-hour drive away (here) or you can go out to sea to spot dolphins or just enjoy sailing along the coast.
Experience Etna
One of the best things you kind of have to do from Catania is visit Etna. An active volcano where you can get active yourself. Hiking, riding a quad, or, in the right season, even skiing. In terms of tours, you have a crazy amount of choice, but you can also go to Etna independently. I went on both a sunset tour and a wine tour, and I will tell you all about it in this blog about visiting Etna.
How long do you need in Catania?
I stay two nights in Catania and go on two Etna tours. Because of that, I have a bit less time in the city, and I’m a little sad. I had to skip some things, like the monastery of Benedettini di San Nicolò l’Arena. I would have also liked to visit a few more outdoor cafes and restaurants.
If you’re not planning to do the tours, then two nights is sufficient. If you are visiting Etna or taking another tour, I recommend setting aside at least three days for Catania. Longer is also possible because a beach day is never a waste, and Taormina is only about a half-hour drive, for example.
Parking in Catania
In many places in Catania, you can park along the road. But that’s easier said than done because Sicilians drive like maniacs. I’m startled but not at all surprised when a car crashes into another car. With the Sicilian driving style, I’m actually surprised I don’t see more accidents. Good car insurance is really not an unnecessary luxury here. This time, I opted for the worry-free package – compare your options at DiscoverCars or Rentalcars.com.
Anyway, I eventually park here. It’s paid parking, but it’s very affordable, spacious, and conveniently close to my apartment and the L’Oste Pazzo restaurant.
Holiday accommodation in Catania
I stay in the street just behind the Bellini Theater. Giuseppe’s apartment is lovely, spacious, and fully equipped. Because it’s on the top floor and it’s blazing hot in Catania, I almost melt away in the kitchen. However, in the living room and bedroom, the AC does its job, and I sleep like a baby.
More Sicily travel inspiration
Useful links for your Sicily trip
- Accommodation. Always handy is Booking.com. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. Book “free” walking tours at Freetour or GuruWalk , and for bike tours, Baja Bikes.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Compare prices and insurance coverage at DiscoverCars and Rentalcars.com.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Definitely Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Bol.com and Amazon.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Start your search at Expedia or CheapOair.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Yoga retreat. Or join a yoga retreat in Sicily.
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links. If you buy something through these links, I might receive a small commission.
