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Latest update: 3 August 2023
Between giant spruce trees, rolling hills, and wide-angle views, there are three unique castle ruins in the Šumava National Park (the Bohemian Forest of the Czech Republic). The castle trio of the Bohemian Forest carries centuries of history. Velhartice, Kašperk, and Rabí come from the same time, but no castle is the same.
The Bohemian Forest: abandoned primeval forest Šumava
Šumava is in the south of the Czech Republic. Perhaps you know Šumava under the name Bohemian Forest. The Bohemian Forest is the largest national park in the Czech Republic, in the Pilsen region. It is centuries old and virtually untouched because it was a kind of no man’s land for years. On the other side is the German border, the Bavarian Forest.
After the Second World War, the inhabitants of Šumava were expelled, and it became an abandoned zone. Šumava became a protected landscape in 1963; in 1990, it became a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve; in 1991, it became a national park. Until 1990, only border patrol was allowed here. Today, we can all enjoy the Bohemian Forest.
Outdoor and castles in the Bohemian Forest
The area consists of forest, a lot of forest. The Bavarian Forest and Bohemian Forest’s nickname is ‘the green roof of Europe’ or ‘the green lungs of Europe’. There are lakes, rivers and high mountains. So one thing’s for sure:: Šumava is the perfect setting for all kinds of outdoor activities: hiking, cycling, or canoeing, for example.
But I’m here for the medieval castles of the Czech Republic. Or castle ruins actually. The three Šumava castles form an imaginary triangle on the map. They are the castle trio Šumavské Trojhradí. The castles (hrad in Czech) Velhartice, Kašperk, and Rabí share their founding time and have all stood the test of time, yet they are very different. You can visit these Czech castles between March/April and October. It is simply too unpleasant in the winter due to the cold, rain, snow, and wind.
Majestic castle in Šumava: Castle Kašperk
From Kašperské Hory, you walk about 3 kilometers through dense forests to the highest royal castle in Bohemia. According to legend, the ghost of a mysterious older woman dressed in wolf skin and with antlers on her head still haunts this forest. She was the omen of disasters and diseases and could turn her victims to stone. And she’s not alone: the black horse of an evil knight who once lived in the castle still gallops here too.
So maybe pick up the pace to escape them? Even if you don’t, the road that leads you to Kašperk Castle is a tough climb, to say the least. But with an altitude of 886 meters, you also have a beautiful view of the Bohemian Forest.
Hrad Kašperk was founded in 1356 by Charles IV. This Bohemian king and emperor of the Roman Empire wanted to guard the borders with Germany, protect the gold mines, and secure the gold route with Kašperk Castle. Since then, the castle has passed into the hands of the town of Kašperk, but little conservation and maintenance has been done over the centuries. In fact, parts of the castle have been demolished to use as building material!
Manager Václav is now at the helm of Castle Kašperk, and with his team, he takes care of the maintenance and restoration of the castle. They also offer guided tours of about an hour. One of the tours mainly focuses on the building, and the other on life in the castle. The future should also hold tours for children and an audio guide in different languages. Check out the current visiting options.
Imaginative castle in the Bohemian Forest: Hrad Velhartice
On a sunny day, you can spend hours in the castle garden of Hrad Velhartice. The old castle brewery has been converted into a nice lunch restaurant where you can sit comfortably inside and outside. And while you enjoy a castle burger, wrap, or Plněný kynutý knedlík (a sweet, filled dumpling), a white fairy wanders through the garden to entertain the children from the school trips.
The castle ruins of Velhartice also appeal to the imagination, so a fairy is in order. A silver mine was in the area, and gold was found in the river. The thick walls and the defense tower Putna were supposed to protect the castle inhabitants in the Middle Ages.
Castle Velhartice was built in several phases. Sometime between 1290 and 1310, it was built as a family residence for the squires of Velhartice. A palace was added in the 17th century. The two buildings were connected by a huge Gothic bridge with four pointed arches on sturdy pillars. There is no stone connection between the castle and the palace: only two wooden footbridges. And yes, you can walk over it. The bridge is the eye-catcher of Velhartice Castle.
Over the years, the Velhartice castle fell into disrepair, but nowadays, people are working hard to restore everything and open it to the public. You can explore this castle with a guide. There are guided tours of the castle and palace. Please note the different language options. You can also look around the grounds by yourself, but then you are not allowed to enter the buildings. View your options here.
Cinematic castle in the Bohemian Forest: Rabí Castle
The largest medieval castle in Šumava Park is Rabí Castle. It is also the largest castle ruin in Bohemia and one of the largest medieval fortresses in Central Europe. As you pass through the grand gate, it is indeed quite imposing. I immediately envision knight movies and battle scenes.
The remains of the thick castle walls are now covered with a layer of grass and moss. Still, it is easy to imagine that this must have been a very chic castle in the Czech Republic in the past.
On top of the castle tower, the 360° view is breathtaking. The Czech flag flies proudly.
It was quite an important castle because it was supposed to protect the trade route and the river in which gold was mined. That is why it was also regularly attacked. In the 18th century, a massive fire raged in the castle. The locals considered the castle lost and used the ruins and stones to build their houses. Yet there is still a surprising amount to see at Rabí Castle.
There is a courtyard with a 60-meter-deep well, fascinating cellars with tiny stalactites and stalagmites, and many walls still standing. You can also go for a tour here, but again: pay attention to the language of the tour. My guide sure has a lot of knowledge about the castle’s history, so I do recommend signing up for a tour. See the visit options here.
Bohemian Forest: 3 castles in 1 day?
As tempting as it may seem, I wouldn’t try to cram the three castles in the Bohemian Forest into one day. You need more than half an hour to drive from one castle to the other. Public transport is almost impossible, so rent a car from Sunny Cars or EasyTerra.
The tours also easily take an hour. Add to that some wandering time and lunch, and your day is way too full – and your head probably too, from all the info you get!
So rather spend a night in the Bohemian Forest region. Then you also have time to visit some towns in the Bohemian Forest. For example, choose Hotel Kašperk in Kasperske Hory. From there, you can also start the hike to the Kašperk castle and dip in the hotel’s swimming pool afterward. Check the availability.
More Czech inspiration?
Useful links for your Czech trip
- Accommodation. My favorite is still Booking.com. Rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. GetYourGuide and Viator offer the best tours and activities. WithLocals offers activities with local guides. For ‘free’ walking tours, check Freetour.com and GuruWalk, and for bike tours, go to Baja Bikes.
- Attractions and museums. Check out Tiqets for tickets for museums and attractions (you get 5% discount with the code KIMOPREIS22)
- Car rental. You can compare prices at Discover Cars or Rentalcars.com.
- Flights. Compare your options! Be sure to check Skyscanner, Trip, and Kiwi.
- Money. Your bank cards may not be accepted everywhere. When you travel, you could opt for a Revolut card as an additional card.
- Package deals. Prefer a fully catered holiday? Expedia and CheapOair might have suitable options.
- Train and bus. Travel to the Czech Republic with NS International or book buses and trains with Busbud, 12Go or Omio.
- Travel guides. Call me old-fashioned, but I still enjoy browsing through a paper travel guide. Available at Amazon.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
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I was in the Bohemian Forest on the invitation of Visit Czechia and Turistu Raj.
