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Latest update: 9 June 2025
In the town of Caltagirone in Sicily, everything revolves around ceramics. It’s literally everywhere: streets, restaurants, stairs – everything becomes more beautiful with ceramics, is the motto here. You see ceramics all over the island anyway. Still, ceramics from Caltagirone is (so I’m told) on a completely different level. Come see for yourself!
Capital of ceramics
Caltagirone sits in the interior of Sicily. As a tourist, you mainly come here for the ceramics. Sure, there are churches to visit and restaurants to try, but for most people, that’s not a reason to make the detour. You can do that in so many places in Sicily, after all. So if you’re not interested in looking at ceramics, you might want to skip the capital of ceramics.
But, honestly, before I came to Sicily, I had 0.0 interest in ceramics either. Then I saw the ceramic pinecones and Moorish heads everywhere and became increasingly interested by the day. You can buy it everywhere: cheap versions at the market or in a souvenir shop, unaffordable variants in the ceramics stores. And after a few days in Sicily, I decided I wanted to take some ceramics home. It’s so typical of the island! I couldn’t get around it anymore. And if I was going to buy it somewhere, it had to be in Caltagirone. So, who knows, you might spontaneously become a ceramics fan, too.
Tip! Check out my itinerary for two weeks in Sicily.
The story behind the Moorish heads
What’s mainly sold in Sicily are Moorish heads and pinecones, but you can also find plates, fish, cats, and much more. But those Moorish heads and pinecones are really typical Sicily. And not just for tourists! Many houses in Sicily have Moorish heads or pinecones on their balconies, for example. But why those specifically?
The Moorish heads (testa di moro) zijn plantenpotten. Handig en mooi, maar er zit een luguber verhaal achter. Kort samengevat: een jonge Siciliaanse werd verliefd op een Moorse man. Dat bleek wederzijds. So far so good. Maar, de man moest terug naar het Oosten waar hij een vrouw en kinderen bleek te hebben. En toen ging het mis: de Siciliaanse wilde hem niet kwijtraken en dus vermoordde ze hem in zijn slaap. Zijn hoofd zette ze op haar balkon en gebruikte ze als plantenpot. En blijkbaar deed het basilicum het daar ontzettend goed in waardoor buren ook zo’n hoofd wilden hebben. Eentje van keramiek weliswaar.
The other version of the story is that a noblewoman had a relationship with a Moorish man, and her father thoroughly disapproved. He murdered them and put their heads in a public place as a warning. That could explain why they’re usually sold as a pair.
And the pinecones? The pignas symbolize fertility, vitality, immortality, and success. They’re often given as gifts at Sicilian weddings, but they’re actually considered good gifts in general. Officially, you’re not supposed to buy one for yourself. Only if you receive it as a gift will the pinecone really work for you.
Ceramics shops in Caltagirone
What makes the ceramics from Caltagirone special is that the clay is extracted nearby, and there is more than 1,000 years of craftsmanship experience behind it. High quality, in other words. Ceramics from Caltagirone can often be recognized by the colors blue and yellow, which are very popular here and typical of the region.
There are quite a few ceramics shops in Caltagirone. I walk into several and really see differences in style. Of course, I find the most expensive pieces the most beautiful, but they’re often so big that I can’t take them with me anyway (although most shops will ship them to you).
Some of these ceramics shops are small and when it’s quiet, a salesperson follows you around. I always find that so annoying. It actually chases me out of your store. That’s why I like walking around at the big store Falcone E Passarello. Here, they have different (affordable) collections. It feels like a department store, but it still has some nice ceramics. Consider it a ceramics store for beginners. Here, I buy a set of Moorish heads.
I also buy a pinecone from Giacomo Spinasanta, who has his studio in his little shop, so you can see him work. He doesn’t speak a word of English, and yet we manage to have a nice conversation using hand gestures. His shop is called Mani in…arte.
What should you expect price-wise? At the really fancy shops, we’re talking about hundreds or thousands of euros/dollars. If you want a handmade pinecone about 12 inches (30 cm) tall, you’ll quickly end up around $60 (€50). My Moorish heads from Falcone E Passarello cost $70 (€60) together. Still, they’re also not of the same detail level as those at Giacomo’s. The two heads and golden pinecone in the photo below? $360 (€300) each.
Tip! You can also take a workshop in Caltagirone and make ceramics yourself. Like this one, for example.
What else can you do in Caltagirone?
OK, shopping done? Then it’s definitely fun to walk around the town a bit – even then, you’ll still see ceramic details everywhere. What’s striking is that the town features both the typically Sicilian baroque houses and Art Nouveau buildings. A nice combination.
But actually, it’s way too hot during my visit to Caltagirone. I would have liked to wander through the town longer, but the temperature outside chases me indoors. Still, I did see some things. The city park, the endless staircase, and the cathedral, for example. But I miss the ceramics museum and the street art.
Giardino Pubblico
The public garden in Caltagirone is a pleasant walking park with a significant elevation change. The town also sits at over 2,000 feet (600 meters) above sea level, so I definitely feel that in my calves here and there. On the upper part of the park, there is a square with a kind of gazebo, which, unfortunately, can’t be viewed up close because construction work is taking place. Along the edge, along the main road, you walk over the Balconata ceramica – I don’t speak Italian, but I can figure out balcony and ceramics from that (applause!). And indeed, the edge is decorated with ceramic pinecones. If you follow this stretch toward the center, you’ll end up at the regional ceramics museum.
The stairs of Santa María del Monte
Iconic. That’s what I can call the stairs of Caltagirone. The Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte sits right in the center. He is an incredibly long staircase that leads to the little church Chiesa di Santa Maria del Monte. The steps are decorated with ceramic tiles. These are majolica tiles, which means earthenware decorated with opaque white ‘tin glaze’ and colorful decorations. Of course, you’ll also find ceramics shops on both sides. Handy for catching your breath. Or find your way to the top of the stairs via the less steep streets behind it and walk down the stairs instead of up.
The stairs were built in 1606, modified in 1844, and the tiles were added in 1954. If all goes well, there are 142 steps. Are you counting along?
The cathedral of Caltagirone
If you’ve been in Sicily for a while, you might not feel like visiting yet another church. I’m definitely church-tired and only look at the cathedral from the outside – the door is also closed now, so the choice is quickly made. The Basilica Cattedrale di San Giuliano features a beautiful, small dome adorned with ceramics.
Food tips in Caltagirone
La Bottega Gustosa is a simple place where you can go for a sandwich during the day (Google Maps location). Sandwich gone? Then get a cannoli for dessert at La Loggia, a bar in an art gallery (with only two works?). It’s not necessarily an atmospheric place, but it’s nice enough to check out for a minute. (Google Maps location)
And if you feel like pasta or pizza in the evening? Then, I recommend Ristorante Il Dasa (Google Maps location). This restaurant is situated at the beginning of the stairs, hidden in a side street, and has an unexpectedly large terrace. The white tablecloths make me doubt for a moment how fancy (and expensive) it is exactly, but it all turns out fine. And it’s delicious. Not unimportant, right?
Highly recommended accommodation in Caltagirone
I’ve found a wonderful apartment in Caltagirone. It’s modern and stylish, with a view of Mount Etna. It’s almost a shame to leave it to explore the town. I could have easily stayed here longer than one night. The owner of Loft panoramico Caltagirone centro is also super helpful and happy to give tips. Don’t hesitate, book it.
More Sicily travel inspiration
Useful links for your Sicily trip
- Accommodation. Always handy is Booking.com. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. Book “free” walking tours at Freetour or GuruWalk , and for bike tours, Baja Bikes.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Compare prices and insurance coverage at DiscoverCars and Rentalcars.com.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Definitely Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Bol.com and Amazon.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Start your search at Expedia or CheapOair.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Yoga retreat. Or join a yoga retreat in Sicily.
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