Latest update: 18 May 2023
No plane has landed or taken off for more than ten years. Yet Berlin’s Tempelhof airport has not been razed to the ground. On the contrary, the deserted airport is even one of the must-visits of Berlin.
A block of concrete full of stories
In 2008, planes took off from Berlin’s Tempelhof airport for the last time. After years of loyal service, the airport no longer met modern requirements. The runways were no longer long enough, complaints from local residents were increasing, and Tempelhof was simply outdated. Faded glory.
The first flights were carried out in the 1920s, and the airport grew into one of the most famous in the world. It is also one of the largest buildings in the world; only the Pentagon and the palace in Bucharest are larger. In 1923 Flughafen Tempelhof had 150 passengers. At the end of the 1920s, there were already more than 80,000 passengers, growing to no less than 3 million passengers per year. But time stood still, making it an excellent stage for a guided tour. A block of concrete full of stories.
Protected heritage and recreation area
The Tempelhof buildings are now protected monuments where tours take place and events. Think of theater performances and fashion shows, such as the Berlin Fashion Week. Thousands of refugees also slept here when necessary, and (parts of) films were filmed at this location, such as The Hunger Games. There are regular events, from kite shows to concerts, outside on the grounds. A large part of the site is freely accessible. Many people come here for a walk, roller skate, or to enjoy the summer sun.
Tip! Check out all Berlin highlight tips.
Tempelhof in the Nazi era
The tour is very informative. You could wander around for days and find a new story in every nook and cranny of the building, from the early years, the heyday, and the war years. The Tempelhof airport also came into the hands of the Nazis for a while. They built a lot at the airport site. Then, in 1939, Hitler reopened the airport as part of what was to become the capital of the Third Reich.
For example, during World War II, forced laborers produced weapons at the site. People worked with highly hazardous substances in underground bunkers with walls up to 60 centimeters thick. The guide says when a fire broke out, the temperature rose to 1000 degrees. Even the concrete burned for a few days, and it took weeks to cool down enough to re-enter the site. Later, techno parties were organized in this bunker. As I walk through the blackened building, I think: this must have been a fantastic underground club. Now there is nothing left of the party because of the building’s monumental status.
The guide will also show you the cellars where people took shelter during bombardments. Several rooms are connected but can be closed separately with a ventilation system. The air-raid shelters were not meant for the forced laborers and political prisoners; they had to return to their unprotected barracks.
Bowling and dancing during the Cold War
During the Cold War, Tempelhof was in American hands. The only access to West Berlin was through the airport. So the Allies flew military aircraft, including food and medicine, into the closed-off part of the city. The Americans built new runways so that two planes could land every minute. They even created a bowling alley, dance floor, and basketball court. They left in 1993, leaving their legacy untouched.
The airport then served for years as a regular airport. Some renovations were done, but eventually, Berlin Tegel and Berlin Schönefeld took over all flights.
Tempelhof tour: put it on your Berlin itinerary!
For two hours, the guide takes me across the huge grounds. There is no less than 300,000 m2 of Tempelhof, so we ‘only’ visit a small part. Hangars, bomb shelters, waiting areas, you get to see everything with a detailed explanation. Very impressive. Especially if you like photography, the tour is highly recommended. You can also consider doing the photography tour. It is more expensive, but you’ll have four hours to shoot pictures.
You can book the English-language Berlin Tempelhof tour of about two hours online. You pay, including administration costs, 17.50 euros per person if you book for two people. And although the guide is very enthusiastic and helpful, the ticket sales and customer service are not at all. So make sure you don’t make a mistake when booking because that can cost you dearly.
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- Yoga retreat. Or what about a yoga retreat in Germany?
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First published: December 2019. The article has been updated since.
