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Latest update: 12 September 2025
Aqaba: Jordan’s only coastal city and gateway to the Red Sea. After a few days in the desert of Wadi Rum, I’m ready for beach and ocean time. But is Aqaba the idyllic coastal town I’m hoping for? I’ll share my honest experience and practical tips for visiting this port city. .
Aqaba: it’s not ‘my’ city
Let me not beat around the bush: Aqaba is disappointing. It’s okay for a short stopover, but not a destination you’d specifically travel to Jordan for. After the magic of Petra and Wadi Rum, Aqaba feels like an anticlimax.
The city is much larger than I expected and has little of the Jordanian charm I encountered elsewhere. There is a lot of concrete, busy traffic, and an obviously commercial character. But there are nice sides, too. The local coffee culture is excellent, there are nice eateries, and it’s pleasantly lively.
Coffee time in Aqaba
The best part of my Aqaba visit? The local coffee shops!
Yaffi Coffee House is a hip new place that has only been open since early 2025. The owner comes over for a nice chat and tells me about his dream: creating a place where local youth can study and chill. That seems to be working pretty well already. The coffee is delicious, too!
Joy House keeps me from overheating during sightseeing. It has a great AC and a friendly barista, and it is the perfect place to recover from the heat. The terrace is right by the harbor, so this seems like a nice spot for later in the day, too.
Marouf is a local chain you’ll encounter in multiple places in Jordan. It has a bit of Starbucks vibes. Great coffee and plenty of snacks to choose from.
Aqaba’s beaches: don’t expect paradise
Aqaba’s beaches aren’t worth writing home about, which is a shame because I was looking forward to them.
The city beach isn’t very interesting for Western tourists. It’s busy and messy, and as a woman, you probably won’t feel comfortable in a bikini among all the local families. The beach is packed with cafés and souvenir shops and has little charm. We walk along it and decide to look for another beach.
South Beach is the better option. Here you can actually sunbathe and swim if you want, but check if you feel comfortable doing so. You won’t see the Jordanians themselves in bikinis. The coral reefs are also close to shore, which is convenient for snorkelers. There’s a public beach and several dive centers you can visit. South Beach is quite far from Aqaba’s center, though, so you need to drive there.
We choose Berenice Beach Club at South Beach because you can snorkel there and you can sunbathe in your swimwear at the beach club. Except… the sea is full of jellyfish. So the fun is over quickly. Unfortunately, the beach also feels a bit soulless, and the restaurant is of mediocre quality. But well, I have a beach bed and a book, so it works out fine. You can buy a ticket with an optional shuttle bus here.
Underwater is spectacular though
Here it gets interesting! Aqaba’s underwater world is quite special if you can avoid the jellyfish. You can both snorkel and dive. For snorkeling, you don’t need to book a tour or boat trip – you just walk from the beach right into the water. Ask one of the dive schools where exactly to go. Most also rent snorkeling gear.
There are all kinds of wrecks: a tank at 26 feet (8 meters) deep, a plane at 49 feet (15 meters), and various ships. Because of the crystal-clear water, you can even see these while snorkeling. You can find the tank around here.
Would you prefer to stay dry but still see fish and coral? Then book a glass boat tour. You’ll see the underwater world without getting wet.
Attractions in the center
I follow the walking route from my Lonely Planet through the center. It takes me past Aqaba’s main sights. They are all small in size and great for a quick stop, so you can string them all together in an hour or two.
The ruins of the Madaba church (Google Maps location) are interesting to see. They date from the 3rd century and are being restored during my visit. Unfortunately, I’m not allowed to take photos of them. The ruins of the old city Ayla (Google Maps location) aren’t accessible due to restoration, and the old Byzantine wall (Google Maps location) is so deteriorated that I almost miss it. There’s a service at the Sharif Hussein bin Ali Mosque (Google Maps location), so I only view it from the street. It all makes sightseeing go pretty fast! 😉
Via the city beach, I walk further to the 16th-century fort of Aqaba (Google Maps location) and the world’s 5th-largest flagpole (Google Maps location). If you walk this stretch in the morning, you can check out the fish market (Google Maps location).
In the evening, it’s fun to wander around the area behind the DoubleTree Hotel. There are lots of eateries and souvenir shops there.
Restaurant tip: Fokhara
If you’re looking for a nice restaurant for the evening, Fokhara is my tip. The food is delicious: fresh mezze, perfectly spiced main dishes, and staff who take the time to explain everything. A mistake with the order is immediately fixed with a smile. The portions are also huge and reasonably priced.
Aqaba: managing expectations
Don’t arrive in Aqaba expecting picture-perfect beaches. It’s a working port city that happens to have some tourist attractions.
For me, Aqaba isn’t a highlight – I could have skipped it. Looking back, I would have either headed straight to my next destination or splurged on a hotel with a private beach. But hey, not every part of a trip can be a highlight!
FAQ about Aqaba
None, haha. Yes sorry, I’m just not that much of a fan. I thought one day was more than enough. In that time, I got an idea of the city and decided it was not ‘my’ city. But if you love diving, you’ll probably have a different opinion.
From some countries you can. But most people fly to Amman and drive to Aqaba (4 hours).
Yes, but in certain seasons, watch out for jellyfish. The water at South Beach is calmer than at the central city beach.
In the tourist areas, hotels and restaurants it is. Outside of that, mainly Arabic.
It is possible, but I would only do it at the private beaches of the beach clubs and hotels. You are among the Jordanian families on the city beach anyway, and it is certainly inappropriate there. It is possible on the public beach at South Beach, but you might also feel stared at.
More Jordan inspiration
Useful links for your Jordan trip
- Accommodation. Booking.com is always useful, but be sure to compare prices. For example, through Trivago and Trip. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. “Free” walking tours book with Freetour or GuruWalk.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Compare your options at Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Amazon.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? You could check out Expedia or CheapOair.
- Flights. Compare all your options! At least check Expedia, Kiwi and Trip.
- Yoga retreat. Or: go for a yoga retreat in Jordan.
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