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Latest update: 23 March 2025
Antequera, the crossroads of Andalusia – a crossroads that many people skip. The impressive rock formations of Torcal de Antequera do attract visitors, but most people quickly move on after seeing them. What a shame! Because the town of Antequera has so much more to offer. Visit the Moorish fort, the wolves of Antequera, or the Spanish dolmens: Dólmenes de Antequera.
Antequera in Málaga
Antequera ligt in de provincie Málaga, zo’n 50 kilometer boven de stad Málaga. Het wordt het kruispunt van Andalusië genoemd omdat het tussen Sevilla, Córdoba, Granada en Málaga inligt.
Antequera is situated at a higher elevation (over 500 meters or 1,640 feet above sea level) because the El Torcal mountain range is also here. The name Antequera actually means “opposite the great rock mass” – fitting, right? As you drive or walk through the town, you’ll notice that you’re constantly going up and down hills. This, of course, also ensures you have fantastic views from different spots in the city.
In this article, I’d like to show you everything you can do in Antequera. Let’s start with the city itself.
Historic city center
If there’s one thing that stands out in Antequera, it’s how well old buildings and monuments have been preserved. The city council clearly finds it important to protect history. Over the centuries, a lot of building took place, in the Bronze Age, Roman times, when the Moors were there, and don’t forget the Spanish Baroque. So be sure to take a good look around as you stroll through the city.
To visit the city center of Antequera, you need about half a day to a full day, depending on how many attractions you want to see from the inside.
If you prefer, you can also explore Antequera with a guide. Book your walking tour with GuruWalk, Freetour or GetYourGuide.
Alcazaba of Antequera
The Alcazaba of Antequera is impossible to miss due to its location. Perched on top of a hill, the Moorish fort proudly stands out above the city. It’s a well-preserved fort that you can visit for a fee. You’ll also get an audio tour (even available in Dutch!), but I find it rather long-winded. By the way, entrance should be free on Tuesdays between 2 PM and 6 PM.
The grounds of the Alcazaba are quite large, but the garden isn’t anything special in winter. For me, it’s mainly the views that make a visit to the Alcazaba interesting. So definitely climb the towers too. The huge church bell rings as we stand next to it in the Torre del Homenaje. What an intense sound! On clear days, you have a view of the Peña de los Enamorados – the rock of the lovers. The rock looks like a reclining face, according to some, like a woman; according to others, like an Indian.
Colegiata de Santa Maria
If you buy a ticket at the Alcazaba, you can also pay to enter the Santa Maria church. I did that, but I don’t think it’s worth the €4. Maybe I’ve seen too many churches during this trip, and I’m just not that impressed anymore. But I find it rather bare inside. There’s not much to see. Partly because the church is now mainly used for events and no longer for services. So, if you want to save €4, you can easily do so here.
If you stand on the small square in front of the church, behind the railing are the remains of Roman baths. They were probably already used in the 1st century. You need a bit of imagination, but the mosaics are still clearly recognizable.
30+ Churches to see
If you happen to love churches, you’re in the right place in Antequera. There are about 30 of them. The mentioned Colegiata de Santa Maria isn’t so special inside, but the Iglesia de San Juan de Dios is. This is a lavishly decorated church in the center of Antequera (Google Maps location). The lady at the reception desk also speaks perfect English and points me to even more beautiful churches. She says the Iglesia del Carmen (Google Maps location) is gorgeous. Unfortunately, I found the door closed, so I can’t confirm it – go see for yourself!
Dolmens of Antequera (megalithic tombs)
About a half-hour walk from the center of Antequera lie ancient burial chambers or burial mounds, or: Dólmenes de Antequera. There’s also a parking lot if you’d rather go by car. You can visit the Dolmens for free. Start at the visitor center, because you need to report there for a free ticket anyway. Then, you can watch a video inside about the construction and meaning of the burial mounds. The video is worth watching because once inside the burial chambers, there’s virtually no information to find. I find it very impressive to see how much thought and planning went into the construction.
The video provided sufficient background information for me, but you might prefer to go with a guide. That’s also possible, for example, with this tour.
There’s also a small exhibition in the visitor center with more info about the Dolmens. I only went through it briefly because my stomach was ready for lunch. After, you walk to the two dolmens on the site. You can see the Dolmen de Menga and the Dolmen de Viera here. Based on the video, I actually estimated them to be much larger than they are. They face the Peña de los Enamorados (which you can also see from the Alcazaba). It is presumed that this rock already had a special meaning 6,000 years ago.
There’s also a third dolmen (Tholos de El Romeral), but it’s almost a 45-minute walk from the first two. If you came on foot, you’ll probably skip that one.
Plaza de Toros de Antequera
As in many Spanish cities, there’s also a bullring in Antequera. Admission is free. I walk around and behind the stands. On the ground floor, there’s a restaurant with a terrace in the arena. It’s deserted, so having a drink here doesn’t look very inviting.
For me, visiting a place where so much animal suffering takes place feels strange, wrong even. But at the same time, it is so intertwined with Spanish culture. Should I even support the tradition by visiting? On the other hand, you can also see it as giving attention to how idiotic it is that this still exists. Bullfighting is still legal in many places in Spain – and it shouldn’t be. So, sign the petition from PETA or CAS.
El Torcal de Antequera
Let’s leave the city center of Antequera behind and explore the surroundings. Starting with El Torcal de Antequera. These are beautiful rock formations of limestone. Due to erosion, they almost look like stacked pancakes. The area is 1,171 hectares (2,894 acres) and consists almost entirely of gray rocks. The rock formations formed the bottom of the sea 150 million years ago and have now risen to 1,336 meters (4,383 feet) above sea level. Pretty astonishing, isn’t it? No wonder Torcal de Antequera is now on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
To get to El Torcal de Antequera, you need a car. Rent one, for example, from DiscoverCars or Rentalcars.com. The route there is already beautiful. You drive over a winding mountain road with stunning views. Very enjoyable! The visitor center has a large parking lot and a restaurant. This is also where the hiking trails begin. There are two circular routes: one of 45 minutes (1.5 km or 0.9 miles, green route) and one of 2 hours (3 km or 1.9 miles, yellow route). There’s also a 3.6 km (2.2 miles) long orange route, but it’s not circular. If you want to be out longer, you can inquire at the visitor center (in advance) about a guide.
The trails are not suitable for strollers or people with mobility issues. You have to clamber over the rocks a lot, but with an average fitness level and good shoes, that’s perfectly doable.
Unfortunately, my best friend had a headache, so we took the shortest route. Of course, I find that a pity, but I still get to see a lot of beautiful sights and even a few mountain goats. The trails are well-marked with colors, so it’s almost impossible to get lost.
Extra tips for El Torcal de Antequera
- Wear good hiking shoes.
- Bring enough water and a snack (there’s nothing on the trail, only at the visitor’s center).
- Check the weather: it’s at a higher elevation and probably a bit cooler.
- Drones are prohibited.
Lobo Park: wolves of Antequera
In recent years, the Netherlands has been quite fixated on wolves, so when I discovered that there’s a park in Antequera where they rescue wolves, I immediately booked a tour. Lobo Park is a rescue park with enclosed areas for different types of wolves. This park exists for rescue and education; they hope to improve the image of the wolf.
Our guide tells us that wolves normally kill only the weakest animal in a herd. The wolf stops hunting as soon as its stomach is full and there are no animals nearby that trigger its hunting instinct. Enclosed herds of sheep cannot flee, which keeps a wolf’s hunting instinct active. That’s why they kill them all and only eat one or two.
There are currently a few pairs and packs in the park, but there are also lone wolves waiting for a mate. Some come from breeding programs, and others are rescued or abandoned. Because yes, some people take wolves into their homes only to discover that it’s not such a good idea.
The park is about a 15-minute drive from the city of Antequera, beautifully surrounded by mountains and olive groves. If you want a guided tour, you should book online in advance.
Tip! From Antequera, it’s not far to Caminito del Rey. If you have time: go!
Nice restaurants in Antequera
Okay, what should you eat in Antequera? There are a few typical dishes you can try. First: porro. That’s the Antequera version of salmorejo from Córdoba. It’s a thick, cold tomato soup. Very tasty. Or try the pío: a salad of orange and cod. For dessert, order bienmesabe. Bienmesabe means something like ‘it tastes good to me,’ and this honey and almond treat definitely does.
Arte de Tapas
At tapas bar Arte de Tapas, you can definitely order local tapas like porro. In general, there are delicious, original tapas on the menu. We eat porro, bienmesabe, fried shrimp, and a stew of pork, chestnuts, and chickpeas, among other things. All so delicious! So definitely come here for lunch or dinner at some point. And don’t be intimidated by an ’empty’ restaurant: we walk past it the first evening because it still seems empty even after 9 PM, but there are more tables in the back. Oops! Oops!
Skip: La Mafia se sienta a la mesa
I’m impressed by La Mafia’s beautiful interior but not at all by the food. The burrata in the burrata salad has probably been against the freezer compartment. The carpaccio is also ice cold and tasteless, and I can’t say much positive about the carbonara either, unfortunately. And now I’d like to say it’s just a bad night, but I’ve been to a La Mafia branch before and had the same experience. Such a shame. Perhaps the pizzas are better?
For drinks: Taberna La Oficina
Taberna La Oficina stands out quite a bit. While almost all Antequera bars and restaurants are typically Spanish, La Oficina is strikingly modern. I find this a nice place for a drink and a cheese platter. Just a place to relax and end the day. There’s a small terrace, but the inside is also a great spot to hang out.
Parking in Antequera
Parking in Antequera is a challenge. Because the roads are narrow and go up and down quite a bit, it’s difficult to find a spot along the street. Therefore, it’s better to choose one of the free parking lots outside the city center and walk a bit. Try it here or here, for example.
Accommodation in Antequera
Looking for a nice place to stay in Antequera? Well, I couldn’t really find cute accommodations, so I only had three on my shortlist.
- CASA EL RINCONCITO
- Apartamento Turístico La Vega
- Arte de Cozina (from the restaurant with the same name)
Eventually, I went with the middle one, and it’s a comfortable apartment near the center. The owner is helpful but barely speaks English, but with a little Google Translate, you’ll manage!
Antequera FAQ
An alcazaba is a Moorish fort. Many Spanish cities have an alcazaba, just like Antequera. For example, there’s also the Alcazaba of Málaga.
If you’re only visiting the city center of Antequera, one day is more than enough. If you also want to visit the wolves and/or El Torcal de Antequera, then I recommend setting aside two days for your visit.
More Spain inspiration?
Helpful links for your Spain trip
- Accommodation. Booking.com is always a popular choice. But you could also check Homecamper | campspace or Hostelworld for more options. HostelWorld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. You can also check out WithLocals. Book ‘free’ walking tours at Freetour.com or GuruWalk and try Baja Bikes for bike tours.
- Attractions and museums. Interested in a 5% discount on museums and other attractions? Use this discount code at Tiqets: KIMOPREIS22
- Bus and train. If you want to travel by bus or train to or in Spain, Busbud and Omio are excellent companies for planning your transportation.
- Boat. You can take a boat from Barcelona to the Balearic Islands, or take a ferry between the islands. Check out the options at Direct Ferries.
- Car rental. Compare your options at Discover Cars and Rentalcars.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? You could try Expedia or CheapOair.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Travel guides. I like paper travel guides to browse through, for sale at Amazon, among others.
- Yoga retreat. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Spain.
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