This post is also available in:
Latest update: 7 June 2025
I’m on the rooftop terrace of my accommodation, looking out over Amman. The city stretches as far as I can see – an endless sea of buildings that roll with the hills. In the distance, I hear the call to prayer echoing through speakers across the entire city. Welcome to Amman, Jordan’s fascinating capital!
First impressions of Amman
Amman surprises me. It’s a city that might not have the instant appeal of other Middle Eastern destinations like Marrakech or Istanbul at first glance, but beneath the surface lies a city full of life, history, and fantastic food.
Amman is a city with little greenery, built upon seven hills. Fun fact: the white star on Jordan’s flag has seven points because of the hills. But those seven hills also mean you’re constantly walking up and down stairs (great for your calves!). You’ll find well-maintained areas in Amman but also plenty of chaos, run-down houses, and disorder.
What stands out is how lively the city is in the evenings, especially in Downtown Amman. The streets fill with people, shops and restaurants are brightly lit, and there’s a constant stream of honking taxis looking for passengers.
Our taxi driver proudly tells my travel companion and me that Amman is a clean city. Still, honestly, we often see people throwing trash on the street. What also stands out are the many street cats. According to our food tour guide, people take good care of these cats, and indeed, we see some cat food scattered on the streets here and there. Still, most cats aren’t in great shape – thin and constantly searching for food in garbage cans.
However, don’t let that deter you. Amman has an honesty that I appreciate – for at least a day or two. This isn’t a polished tourist city but a place where people actually live.
Tip! Before you head out: get the Jordan Pass. You can visit many attractions for free with it.
What to do in Amman: historical attractions
Amman is a city with a rich history dating back to the Stone Age. You’ll find remnants from Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic periods. The best starting point to discover Amman’s historical side is the Citadel. Still, there are definitely more places you shouldn’t miss. Almost all are free to visit with the Jordan Pass!
The Citadel
The Citadel (free access with the Jordan Pass) sits on the highest of the seven hills. High above the city, so you constantly have beautiful views over Amman. Here, you always feel a cooling breeze, which is terrific on such a hot day in the city. The Citadel has various ruins, including the Temple of Hercules and an old mosque. There’s also a museum where you can see all kinds of objects from thousands of years ago. It’s a nice place to wander around and dive into history.
Tip: after you visit the Citadel, drink a refreshing iced coffee at Dar Ne’meh. This little café is right next to the Citadel and supports local women’s projects.
The Roman theater
This impressive theater, located in Downtown Amman, is also free to visit with your Jordan Pass. It’s one of the best-preserved Roman theaters in the Middle East. Of course, I climb all the way up the bleachers, but at the top, I have some regret because my fear of heights kicks in. Oops.
In the corners of the theater, you’ll find two small museums: the Jordan Folklore Museum and the Jordan Museum of Popular Traditions. They’re not spectacular, but if you’re there anyway, it’s worth walking through.
Google Maps location
Amman’s Odeum
The Odeum is situated directly adjacent to the Roman Theater, although it is significantly smaller. I recommend going there first and then visiting the Roman theater – otherwise, the Odeum pales in comparison size-wise! For comparison, the Roman Theater has 6,000 seats, and the Odeum has only 500. Both were built around the second century, by the way.
King Abdullah I Mosque (aka: the Blue Mosque)
This large mosque with a blue dome is a recognizable point in Amman’s skyline – depending on which hill you’re on, of course. Honestly, I found the interior of the Blue Mosque a bit disappointing; I had imagined it to be much more elegant or grandiose. And secretly, the mosaic on the outside of the building with all that blue reminds me a bit of a swimming pool.
Upon entering, we’re first greeted in the souvenir shop. The lady who welcomes us is quite rushed, and buying a ticket and putting on covering clothing is somewhat stressful. Women definitely get an abaya (a long dress with a hood). For the men, it seems more random whether or not you get something handed to you to cover yourself. Once you return the clothes, you’re offered a small cup of tea and a tour through the souvenir shop.
Tip: after your visit, walk to Jungle Fever Coffee and Tea House. From the terrace, you have a nice view of the mosque.
Old Signs of Amman Museum
I stumble upon this free museum by accident. And since I always like to take home a license plate as a souvenir, I want to take a quick look inside the Old Signs of Amman Museum. It’s a collection of old signs, one that began in 1986. Every piece of the wall is completely covered with them. The owner is often present in the shop, speaks German, and writes your name in Arabic as a memento. A nice, personal experience.
What to do in Amman: arts and culture
Besides its historical heritage, Amman also boasts a vibrant cultural scene with numerous galleries and museums. Although I must be honest, during my visit, I didn’t always find the museums very impressive. It’s nice that there’s often a café attached because it’s mainly fun to hop from rooftop terrace to rooftop terrace in the city.
Spotting street art
In various places in Amman, you’ll randomly come across beautiful street art. Sometimes, it is a small work, but also occasionally on a building several stories high. If you want to search for it, this is a handy map. It features almost 400 street art pieces!
Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts
Honestly, I didn’t find the art here very special, especially not for 7 JD ($10) in 2025. The Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts is unpretentious, which I find nice, but the exhibitions during my visit were quite basic. Points for the museum café, though. The attached Jungle Fever Coffee and Tea House has a lovely outdoor terrace with views of the Blue Mosque. Time for a coffee break!
Darat al Funun – The Khalid Shoman Foundation
Darat al-Funun is described in the Lonely Planet as an inspiring place, but I somehow missed that. The various buildings where everything from classical art to experimental art should be visible are either unfindable or closed to me, and I can’t find any staff to help me either. So I only visit The Lab at the bottom of the street where there’s a small exhibition about setting up a desert tent. The premises feature a beautiful garden where several cats roam freely. Also nice, but hopefully, there’s more to see and do on other days.
Manara – Arts & Culture
Manara is a café located in a more affluent neighborhood, offering a beautiful view of the city. Despite the name ‘Arts & Culture,’ I don’t see much art there, but the oat cappuccinos (for about $5 each) are delicious!
What to do in Amman: local markets and food tour
A visit to Amman isn’t complete without diving into the local cuisine and markets. Jordanian cuisine is so much more than bread with hummus. Try as much as possible, because the food here is really delicious!
Tip! No idea where to eat nice and tasty food? Check out the restaurant and food tips for Amman.
Amman’s souk
I always find it very fun to visit a local market abroad. In Arabic, a market is called a souk, and the sugar souk (Souq Al-Sukar) is highly recommended. This souk is right behind the Grand Husseini mosque and is wonderfully busy, chaotic, and full of aromas. I later also visit the market with the food tour and get to taste all kinds of things. Very fun and delicious.
Food tour: the ultimate taste experience
I can’t force you to do anything, but I highly recommend booking a food tour in Amman! With Amman Food Tours, I eat my way around from Rainbow Street to Downtown Amman. At high speed, we taste all kinds of delicacies, from traditional dishes to sweet specialties. Through the food tour, I discover places I would never have gone to otherwise and dishes I wouldn’t have tried. Super handy for the rest of this trip through Jordan too. More info.
Rainbow Street: Amman’s hippest area
Rainbow Street is one of the most popular places in Amman, both with tourists and locals. This lively street is in the Jabal Amman district, and is known for its restaurants, cafés, and small shops. But honestly, I don’t really get the hype. In all travel blogs, you read that you must go to Rainbow Street, so maybe that’s why my expectations were so high.
There’s no rainbow in sight: the street is actually just named after the cinema with that name. There is a nice side street with colored lanterns, but otherwise, it’s just a street with restaurants and shops. It’s mainly busy and lively in the evenings when everyone sits outside eating and socializing.
Practical tips for your visit to Amman
Transportation
My most important tip: don’t rent a car in Amman! Parking is a nightmare, and you really don’t need it in the city. Taxis are abundant and not expensive. Regular Ubers operate in Amman. Traffic is hectic, especially on weekends, and keep in mind that in Jordan, the weekend is Friday and Saturday.
I took a taxi from the airport to my accommodation and picked up my rental car in the city when I left Amman. You pay a little extra for pickup and drop-off at different locations, but I think it’s absolutely worth it. Still looking for a car? This time, I rented through DiscoverCars, but Rentalcars.com is also a good option.
Accommodation
We stay at Rainbow House, an apartment within walking distance of Rainbow Street (one of the more touristy streets with restaurants and shops). It has good beds and even a washing machine. The apartment has a somewhat weird layout and could use some updating, but anyway, my taste in hotel ‘design’ differs quite a bit from what’s considered beautiful in Jordan – and that’s perfectly fine. There’s also a rooftop terrace with lovely views over the city, especially beautiful during sunset when you can see a ‘show’ of circling pigeons and later the illuminated city. Check on Booking or Trivago.
FAQ about Amman
I recommend spending at least a full day in the city. Then you can see all the main attractions. I even stayed two days so I could slow down the pace and also enjoy coffee and terraces.
Yes, Amman is a relatively safe city for tourists. Just like in any big city, you need to watch your belongings and be especially alert in the evenings in Downtown Amman. People are generally very friendly and helpful. Solo female travel is no problem, but don’t wear too revealing clothing.
Taxi rides in Amman are pretty affordable. A 10-15 minute ride costs about 2-4 JD ($2.80-$5.60). Always ask if the driver will turn on the meter, though. If that’s not possible, agree on a price beforehand. Uber is also available and usually cheaper than regular taxis; plus, you don’t have to hassle over the price.
Spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) are the most pleasant seasons to visit Amman. Temperatures are mild, then, between 68°F and 77°F (20-25°C). In summer, it can get blazing hot (sometimes above 95°F/35°C), and in winter, it can be surprisingly cold, with sometimes even snow.
The easiest way is taking a taxi, which costs about 20-25 JD ($28-$35) to downtown. There’s also a bus (number 329) for only 3 JD, but it’s harder to find and doesn’t run as frequently. I recommend just taking a taxi, especially if it’s your first time in Jordan.
No, in Amman, you don’t need to cover your head as a female tourist, except when visiting mosques, such as the King Abdullah I Mosque. It is respectful to cover your shoulders and knees, though.
Definitely! There’s even a brewery in Amman. But you can’t get alcohol everywhere by a long shot.
The tap water in Amman is officially safe to drink; however, most people still prefer bottled water. So please bring a water bottle and refill it.
More Jordan inspiration
Useful links for your Jordan trip
- Accommodation. Booking.com is always useful, but be sure to compare prices. For example, through Trivago and Trip. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. “Free” walking tours book with Freetour or GuruWalk.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Compare your options at Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Amazon.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? You could check out Expedia or CheapOair.
- Flights. Compare all your options! At least check Expedia, Kiwi and Trip.
- Yoga retreat. Or: go for a yoga retreat in Jordan.
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links. If you buy something through these links, I might receive a small commission.
