The most fun wine tasting in Tuscany? A Solatio in Certaldo

Wine tasting in Certaldo, Tuscany

Seven years later, I’m back for a wine tasting with Raffaello and Donella. I’ll be honest — I’m a little nervous it won’t live up to my memories. Was it actually as wonderful as I remember, or have I built it up into something bigger than it was? Am I about to ruin a perfectly good memory?

Nope. It’s only gotten better.

The winery A Solatio is small, cozy, and friendly. Owners Raffaello and Donella are wonderful hosts — that was true seven years ago, and it’s still true now. Because of them, this is a winery you never want to leave. And there’s no rush either because Raffaello and Donella give you all the time you need to taste wine in Tuscany.

At A Solatio, you can come over for a wine tasting or just have a glass. Either way, you’ll be taken care of.

Back for the wine!

Seven years ago, I was so enthusiastic about this place that I wrote a blog post about it. That post took off—suddenly, Raffaello had a steady stream of Dutch visitors. He was puzzled about where they all came from, and it turned out it was through my article. Which is pretty great, because it meant A Solatio had a solid customer base during COVID. And I’m 100% sure every single one of them had a fantastic time. Some even sent me a message on Instagram or by email to thank me for the tip. That’s exactly what you hope to achieve with a travel article!

So it was high time for a return visit.

A Solatio: an atypical winery in Tuscany

On our previous visit seven years ago, we had to stay inside because of the weather. This time, we get to enjoy the outdoors too. When we arrive, we’re welcomed by Raffaello’s daughter Rita, who hands us a picnic basket with cheeses and a new wine from the lineup: L’Avventuriero, a sparkling wine. She invites us to take it up to the viewpoint. “Take your time,” we’re told. “No rush. Relax and enjoy.” Some things haven’t changed at all.

On our last visit, we started with a tour of the production area and Raffaello’s wine tanks. Since retiring, he’s thrown himself completely into winemaking. Not on a huge scale — the wine he produces is sold exclusively here and at one nearby restaurant. All wines are fully organic, as is the homemade olive oil.

Retirement clearly hasn’t left this winemaker with nothing to do. The now 78-year-old Raffaello has been busy. The tasting room has undergone a major upgrade, with several lovely seating areas, new wines developed, and even house-made balsamic vinegar. That last one is apparently partly my fault — those Dutch visitors kept asking about it. So he tracked down a partner to make balsamic from his grapes. It’s thicker and sweeter than what you’re used to, because Raffaello likes to do things his own way. Same as with the wines.

Tuscan wines from A Solatio

Under the A Solatio label, several wines are produced from grapes including merlot, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese, and more. White wines are also part of the range — one is even named after hostess Donella.

A bottle of wine starts at €16 (around $17). But Raffaello would rather not talk about prices. For him, it’s all about wine quality. He does buy wines from competitors in the same price range — purely out of curiosity and to learn, he says. He’s interested in how others make wine, how those wines develop over time, and… well, he also wants to know how his own wine stacks up. He laughs because he pretty much always concludes that his wine is better.

He brings in experts, but mostly follows his own palate. That’s also why he prefers making Super Tuscans over Chianti Classico — far fewer rules to follow. A Chianti Classico must contain at least 80% Sangiovese, for example. Super Tuscans have no such requirements, so he can blend 50% Sangiovese with 50% Cabernet if he wants to.

Tip! Want to taste even more wine in Tuscany? Read my blog about the best wine tastings in Chianti.

Wine tasting with lunch

After the sparkling wine on the viewpoint, we settle into the revamped tasting room. Seven years ago, this was a rather cluttered space — now it’s a cozy wine room with lovely seating nooks. You can also sit outside in the vineyard, which is a great option too.

We opt for the tasting with lunch, and I’d highly recommend it. Full glasses are the motto here — no stingy pours. The wines build from light to full-bodied, and something delicious comes out with every glass. Everything is homemade, from the pesto to the vegetable dip with produce from Donella’s own garden. Then comes a plate of pasta — flavorful ravioli and absolutely wonderful gnocchi. Back home, I honestly find gnocchi pretty underwhelming. A bit chewy and potato-like. But these? Soft, creamy, and stuffed with cheese. This is how gnocchi should be.

And through it all, we have great conversations. About wine, about the impact of my blog, about his plans for the vineyard… Donella speaks barely any English, but because she speaks slowly in Italian, we manage just fine. Maybe the wine helps a little too. We remember from last time that she had a newspaper clipping with a photo of Dutch Princess Beatrix visiting the store where she used to work. And sure enough — the newspaper is still there. Laminated now, because they’ve had to pull it out of the drawer so many times.