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Latest update: 19 December 2024
Vejer de la Frontera is one of the many white villages in Andalusia, but it is certainly not a twelve-in-a-dozen town. The center is nice and compact, and it feels like the clock is ticking a little slower here. Vejer de la Frontera is definitely worth a visit.
Welcome to Vejer de la Frontera
Less than ten kilometers from the Costa de la Luz beaches, Vejer de la Frontera is located on top of a rocky hill. A short, winding mountain road takes you up to the town. On one side of the village, you can look out over the sea and on the other side over the mountains of the Los Alcornocales Natural Park.
The historic center is marked by the remains of the Arab city walls. Narrow alleys run up and down past the white houses. Every street corner invites you to explore more. Who knows, you might find a beautiful view or a pretty house decorated with plants. There are some small souvenir shops and galleries where you can buy something (semi-)unique. And that’s how you forget the time… Isn’t it wonderful?
Pueblo blanco Vejer de la Frontera
Vejer de la Frontera is a pueblo blanco, a white village. In the past, the houses were painted with white lime because of its disinfecting effect. It had to protect the inhabitants against epidemics, for example. Today, people mostly use paint. Fun fact: it is written in the law in Vejer de la Frontera that you must paint your house white and maintain it. If you don’t, the municipality will come to paint your house – and they’ll bill you for it.
The heart of Vejer de la Frontera: Plaza de España
The Plaza de España is the heart of Vejer de la Frontera. This beautiful square is surrounded by long palm trees, a particularly photogenic fountain, plenty of benches, and some cute restaurants and cafes. Be sure to take a closer look at that fountain. You will discover the beautiful tiles from Seville and the funny water-spouting frogs. Can you imagine that bullfights were held on this pretty square centuries ago?
Casa and Torre del Mayorazgo
The Tower of Mayorazgo is one of three watchtowers in Vejer de la Frontera. You can go up there via the Casa del Mayorazgo. Señor Manuel keeps the patios tidy here. It is full of flowers and plants. You walk through the courtyard of the houses to the tower. So don’t be surprised if the residents come to say hi to you curiously or if you have to dodge the flapping laundry. You have a beautiful view of the Plaza de España of Vejer de la Frontera from the tower. A visit is free, but leaving some change to maintain the patio is a nice gesture.
The Church of Vejer de la Frontera
Like so many churches in the region, the Iglesia Divino Salvador was built on the site where a mosque used to be. The region was mainly in the hands of the Moors from the 8th to the 15th century. When the Christians came to power, many mosques disappeared. This is also where the addition ‘de la Frontera’ originates: Vejer, like many other places in the region, was on the border between the Moors and the Christians.
This church is rather crammed between the houses. It is difficult to see it as a whole, but it looks beautiful with the small passages, courtyards, and palm trees.
City walls of Vejer de la Frontera
The city walls, or what is left of them, are from Moorish times. You can go on them in some places. If you follow the walls, you will automatically come across the beautiful arcos: city gates. There are four, one in each wind direction. The round shape of the arches is also due to the Moorish era.
Be sure not to miss the narrow street Calle Judería. You will find a house next to the city wall with a patio full of plants that would make any garden center jealous. Free to pop in; a donation is appreciated. There are more of these patios in Vejer de la Frontera because there is actually a patio competition. The people then compete for the most beautiful patio of the year.
Anyway, this street is highly recommended because of the beautiful Arcos de la Judería. They weren’t here originally but were installed after the earthquake in Lisbon to strengthen the buildings.
Tip! Explore Vejer de la Frontera with a local guide. I joined Juan José, which was a lot of fun. He offers both evening and daytime walking tours. Check the possible dates.
Castillo – the castle of Vejer de la Frontera
The castle of Vejer de la Frontera is more than 1000 years old. But a lot has been rebuilt in between. Nowadays, events are organized, and there is a small exhibition space. The outside of the castle is brown, but once inside, it is mostly painted white. A little more maintenance would go a long way, though. You can walk on the outside walls to enjoy the view. A visit is free, but the opening hours are very limited. In my experience, the times Google mentions are wrong. So I tried the castle several times before, finally, the door was open.
Shopping in Vejer de la Frontera
Vejer de la Frontera is only a small town, so you will not find a large shopping street here. You will also not find chain stores such as Zara and H&M. But what then? Lovely boutiques with Spanish brands, small home furnishing shops, and souvenir shops with non-standard souvenirs.
Church Museum Nuestra Senora de la Concepción
A museum is now housed in this old church. It costs almost nothing, but you must be up for a lot of Spanish reading. The museum is actually about Vejer de la Frontera’s history, not the church. You see agricultural tools and old utensils, and a crypt is downstairs.
Tip! Want to see if you have some talent for flamenco? Find out during a flamenco dancing masterclass in Vejer de la Frontera. View all the details.
La Cobijada
The black statue of a woman, just behind the city wall, represents a veiled woman wearing local costumes. From this spot, you again have a beautiful view of Vejer de la Frontera and the surrounding area.
Sculpture Garden Fundacion
On the outskirts of Vejer de la Frontera is an open-air museum. Contemporary art mixed with nature. In a forest and next to the golf course, you will find about twenty works of art. A visiting trail has been plotted so that you can view them all. Count on walking around for an hour.
As always with art, whether you like it is a matter of taste. I find some art installations really interesting, like James Turrell’s Skyspace. You can also visit it with a light show (more info). But I personally can hardly see a bench sawn in two as art. A visit costs ten euros, and then you get the walking route on your phone. Or pay fifty cents extra for the paper version.
The windmills of Vejer de la Frontera
Just outside the center is a small wind farm. You may have already seen them when you entered Vejer de la Frontera. There are three old white mills that you can visit for free. You can also look inside one, and if the caretaker is nearby, you can ask for an explanation – in Spanish, that is. The inhabitants of Vejer de la Frontera used to grind their grain with these mills. You can also start a walk here that takes you past more mills: the Ruta Molinos de Viento.
Nice walk around the Cerro de Abejaruco
The Cerro de Abejaruco is a mountain in Vejer de la Frontera around which a pleasant walking trail runs. According to the Spanish information boards, the hike takes two hours, but my experience is that the Dutch are almost twice as fast as the Spanish estimate every time. Of course, that also depends on the weather. I walk this route in the winter when the sun is shining but the wind blows hard. The steep descents and ascents are, of course, a lot tougher in the summer.
It really is a beautiful area with fantastic views. You see the town of Vejer de la Frontera and the meadows with grazing cows. Along the path are olive trees and even cacti and meters-high bamboo. A lovely trail to walk, and your dog can come along.
Restaurants and bars in Vejer de la Frontera
So I read online that Vejer de la Frontera has more than 120 restaurants. How?! The town is not that big, is it? So I have certainly not tried all 120 of them for you, but I have tried a few. And okay, also a few bars.
Restaurant Corredera 55
Corredera 55 is a fine restaurant in Vejer de la Frontera. Corredera 55 is under the same ownership as El Jardín del Califa. The menu goes in all directions: from traditional Spanish to a pan of mussels and an Ottolenghi dish. No culinary delights, but it all tastes good. It’s just that it’s put on the table so incredibly quickly. That’s a pity because we were looking forward to a nice long evening of dining. The service is really on top of everything. In the busy summer months, you should definitely make a reservation!
Restaurant El Jardín del Califa
This is probably the most popular restaurant in Vejer de la Frontera. So make sure you book! From the Plaza de España, you will be led through several dark corridors and stairs to the restaurant’s beautiful garden. You can also eat inside a kind of vaulted room. If I understood correctly, this used to be a prison. Weather permitting, I would definitely sit in the garden. The menu is North African, so think hummus, tagines, couscous, and more. Very tasty, I can assure you. The owners also own two hotels: Hotel La Casa del Califa and Las Palmeras del Califa. Both are very beautiful!
Restaurant Garimba Sur
At the Plaza de España, you almost have to fight for a spot on the sunny terrace of Garimba Sur. It is not a cheap restaurant, but the service is friendly and fast, and more than enough goodies are on the menu. Including regional dishes from the province of Cádiz and tapas. Maybe you won’t dare to try everything though: pigeon thighs, venison meatballs? All allergies are neatly indicated on the menu. This Vejer de la Frontera restaurant is a bit pricey if you just come for a quick lunch, but you also pay for the location, right?
Wine bar La Casa del Vino
You can taste delicious wine and sherry at La Casa Del Vino on the square with the fountain. It is often jam-packed here, so it is best to order inside. Be sure to try a local wine, for example, the Garum. Lovely spot in Vejer de la Frontera!
Restaurant 4 Estaciones
At 4 Estaciones, they have made a cute spot on the stairs and in the street for lunch or dinner. I am very excited about the kitchen. There are fun, creative dishes on the menu. How about mussels with lemon curd foam, for example? You should share different dishes with your table so that you can try as many as possible. For me, this is one of the best restaurants in Vejer de la Frontera.
Restaurante Trafalgar
Another nice restaurant on the Plaza de España: Restaurante Trafalgar. It is a tiny tapas bar with a lovely sunny terrace under the orange trees. The tapas menu is limited, but there are enough tasty things for everyone. And yes, it is a bit touristy, but you can hardly escape that on this square.
Coffee bar Specialty Coffee
Coffee time! Finally, I found a place in the Cádiz region where they make coffee the way I like. Because, geez, I really don’t understand the coffee that the Spaniards drink. Undrinkable, if you ask me. But at Specialty Coffee, they know how to make coffee. It can’t be any other way with a name like that, right? I obviously order a cake with it – cake with a capital C. The portions are HUGE.
Restaurant Lamajara
Trafalgar and Garimba are traditional tapas bars in Vejer de la Frontera, Lamajara, on the other hand, is very modern. Expect traditional dishes with a modern twist. Or by now, they may already be classic modern dishes: tuna tartare tacos and mini burgers, for example. It is best to sit outside because you can enjoy the liveliness of Plaza de España. Good spot for people watching in the sun while enjoying a glass of wine.
Restaurante Patría
You can also eat well in the outskirts of the Vejer de la Frontera. For example, at Restaurante Patria. A cozy restaurant with Danish owners. On sunny days you can eat in the small garden or on the porch. The service is amiable, and the food is locally sourced. There are also many vegetarian dishes on the menu. Because it is a short drive and no other restaurants are in the area, you should not go here on spec. Try to make a reservation.
Restaurante la Castillería
This is THE meat restaurant of Vejer de la Frontera. La Castillería is a short drive from the center – and it’s worth the drive. If you want to eat here, you must book way in advance. You have the best chance to get a table for lunch on a weekday. You eat in an attractive covered garden with frills everywhere. But it’s not about the interior; it’s about the meat. The solomillo de cerdo (pork) is delicious, and you can order steaks that have matured for several months. Bring a well-filled wallet!
Free parking in Vejer de la Frontera
The center of Vejer de la Frontera is almost entirely car-free. And you should also ask yourself whether you even want to get there by car because the streets are so narrow. I choose the large parking lot just outside the center. It’s free parking and only a short walk to the center of Vejer de la Frontera. More free parking spaces exist, but I always find a spot here.
Haven’t arranged a rental car yet? Then I recommend Sunny Cars or EasyTerra because you can rent all-inclusive. So no hassle at the pickup desk about extra insurance.
Hotels in Vejer de la Frontera
I stayed in Chiclana de la Frontera and visited Vejer de la Frontera a few times, so I didn’t need a hotel room. That is almost a shame because the Vejer de la Frontera has very nice hotels. Just have a look at:
- Hotel La Casa del Califa: nicely decorated rooms and fantastic breakfast.
- Las Palmeras del Califa: luxurious rooms in North African style and a good breakfast.
- Tugasa Hotel Convento San Francisco: stay in an old convent, smaller rooms, but full of history.
- Casa Aura Hotel: an old building converted into a modern hotel with many wooden details.
More Spain inspiration?
Helpful links for your Spain trip
- Accommodation. Booking.com is always a popular choice. But you could also check Homecamper | campspace or Hostelworld for more options. HostelWorld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. You can also check out WithLocals. Book ‘free’ walking tours at Freetour.com or GuruWalk and try Baja Bikes for bike tours.
- Attractions and museums. Interested in a 5% discount on museums and other attractions? Use this discount code at Tiqets: KIMOPREIS22
- Bus and train. If you want to travel by bus or train to or in Spain, Busbud and Omio are excellent companies for planning your transportation.
- Boat. You can take a boat from Barcelona to the Balearic Islands, or take a ferry between the islands. Check out the options at Direct Ferries.
- Car rental. Compare your options at Discover Cars and Rentalcars.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? You could try Expedia or CheapOair.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Travel guides. I like paper travel guides to browse through, for sale at Amazon, among others.
- Yoga retreat. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Spain.
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