What to do in Livorno: things to see in Tuscany’s port city

Livorno: What kind of city is it anyway?

Livorno sits on the west coast of Tuscany, right on the Ligurian Sea. It’s the third-largest city in Tuscany (after Florence and Pisa), but most tourists skip it entirely. Understandably, since Florence and Pisa are just around the corner and have a much bigger reputation. But that’s exactly what makes Livorno appealing: it’s less tourist-oriented. More local.

The city is relatively young by Italian standards. Livorno only really developed in the 16th and 17th centuries, when the Medici family expanded its port into one of Italy’s most important trading hubs. That history shaped the city: because of that thriving trade, Livorno was always an open, cosmopolitan place. Large communities of Jewish, Greek, Armenian, and other trading nations settled here. You can still see that diversity in the architecture, though a lot was lost during the heavy WWII bombardments. That’s why Livorno is one of the more modern cities in Tuscany, giving it a very different feel from the region’s typical hilltop towns.

This is a port city through and through. The Livornese have a reputation for being direct and jovial — people of the sea, as they say. And the port is still very much in use. Regular ferries depart from Livorno to Sardinia (about 8 to 9 hours), Corsica (around 4 hours), and Sicily. A lot of people use Livorno as a jumping-off point for an island vacation: drive there, park or bring your car onto the ferry, and leave before you’ve even had a proper look around.

How long do you need in Livorno?

But what if you actually want to explore Livorno? How long do you need? Livorno doesn’t have many sights, so one day is plenty. My friend and I stay two nights, which turns out to be just a little too long — especially because it rains one of those days, turning my vision of Aperol Spritzes on sunny terraces into nothing but a fantasy.

Planning to hit the beach from Livorno? Then you might want to stay a bit longer. Keep in mind that the beach isn’t actually in the city itself, so you’ll need to travel a bit to get there.

So what can you actually do in Livorno?

The Venice quarter (Piccola Venezia)

I’d read online that part of Livorno is nicknamed “Venice,” and the moment I walk through it, I immediately get it — even though I’ve never actually been to Venice. The canals, the colorful facades, the boats gently bobbing in the water. The comparison makes sense.

I was secretly hoping for a gondola ride, but only regular canal tour boats operate here. Not really my thing, so I stick to a short walk along the waterfront instead.

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Visiting Fortezza Vecchia

The old fort of Livorno sits right on the harbor and is free to visit. You do have to walk all the way around the fort to get inside, but once you’re there, there are restrooms and a spot to grab a drink. Honestly, the fort isn’t all that impressive. It actually looks better from across the harbor than it does from the inside.

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Exploring Fortezza Nuova

The Fortezza Nuova is Livorno’s other fort, and I find it more interesting. It’s been converted into a city park, and that works really well. Locals come here to sit on a bench, walk the dog, and to attend events held here regularly.

I couldn’t go inside because a ticketed event was happening. So whether you can get a close look depends a bit on what’s on the program when you visit. Check the website beforehand.

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Terrazza Mascagni

Terrazza Mascagni is a seaside promenade with black-and-white checkerboard tiles, right on the water. It’s a favorite spot for locals to stroll, sit on a bench, and stare at the sea. On nice days, it’s full of people and street vendors. It borders a park where people fly kites, and just behind it is the Livorno aquarium. Terrazza Mascagni is also a great spot to watch the sunset.

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Taking a dip at Scoglio della Regina

The Scoglio della Regina was once a popular bathhouse, but the building has been falling apart for decades. Plans to turn it into a high-tech research center never got off the ground. So it just sits there, unused.

And yet it’s worth stopping by. Through the square and along the edges of the building, you can access the sea. It’s a popular spot for local swimmers and sunbathers.

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Finding street art in Livorno

Livorno has quite a few murals scattered around the city. The works are spread out across the whole city, including beyond the center. During my visit, I keep stumbling across them without even looking.

If you want to seek them out intentionally, the Street Art Cities website is a handy tool for finding murals. By car or bike, you can also reach the larger works outside the city center.

Porta a Mare shopping center

If the weather doesn’t cooperate, you can kill some time at the Porta a Mare shopping center. It’s not huge — a handful of stores, a Starbucks, a McDonald’s, and an arcade with a bowling alley. Not exactly atmospheric, so it’s really only a tip for a rainy day. Sometimes there’s an antique market on the outdoor terrace, which is a lot more fun when the weather’s better!

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The best neighborhood for food and drinks

If you’re looking for a lively spot in the evening, head to Via Leonardo Cambini. There are several great restaurants, a cocktail bar, and a wine bar along this street. And if you walk around the block, you’ll find a good coffee spot, a sandwich bar, and more. Also, check out my blog with food & drink tips in Livorno.

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More to see in Livorno

I didn’t visit these myself, but they’re worth mentioning:

• Museo Civico Giovanni Fattori: A 19th-century villa showcasing Italian Impressionism, including a piece by Modigliani.
• Sinagoga di Livorno: A striking modernist building from the 1960s, built to replace the synagogue that was almost completely destroyed in WWII. The Jewish community has been an important part of Livorno for centuries.
• Museo di Storia Naturale del Mediterraneo: A natural history museum — particularly fun to visit with kids.