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Latest update: 25 June 2026
Livorno sits right on the Ligurian Sea, so it goes without saying that you should eat fish at least once. And drink wine, because you’re in Italy. And eat pizza, because — as I just mentioned — you’re in Italy. Here are my tips for eating and drinking in Livorno, from early morning to late at night.
Italian breakfast at L.E.F.
Italians aren’t really into elaborate breakfasts. They prefer to knock back a quick coffee at the bar, standing up, with a cornetto (a croissant) in hand. A bit of small talk with the neighbors and then back to it. As a daily ritual that’s a little too intense for me, but when I’m in Italy, I’m happy to join in.
where sitting comfortably is basically impossible because of all the people standing around. We squeeze into a corner and enjoy a wonderfully creamy cappuccino, a pistachio-filled cornetto, and some quality people-watching.
Shopping or lunching at the Mercato Centrale
A coffee and a cornetto are not enough to keep me going. So it’s great to pick up a few extras at the local market. The Mercato Centrale is open Monday through Saturday until 3:00 PM. This is where Livornese residents come to buy vegetables and fresh fish. It’s not a tourist market — it’s the real deal, where people haggle and return to their favorite vendors week after week.
You can also grab a seat and eat something there. We end up choosing a table outside because the weather is too nice to sit indoors, but on a cooler day, having lunch at the market is a great option.
Fried fish at Il Chiosco del Porto
On a busy road near the harbor, there’s a small kiosk with a simple but fun terrace. This is where you come for fried fish: calamari, shrimp, cod — straight out of the fryer and piping hot. A nice mix of locals and tourists shows up here, and the vibe is relaxed and unpretentious.
It’s open from noon until 10:00 PM. Perfect for lunch or a snack on the go.
Sandwiches and boards at Sirius
Sirius is a small restaurant serving sandwiches and charcuterie boards — ideal for lunch or a casual drink. The staff is friendly, and the boards come loaded with cheese, cured meats, and other good things. There are several sandwiches on the menu, but you can also build your own from scratch.
Tip! Want to explore the city while you’re at it? I’ve got plenty of sightseeing tips for Livorno for you!
Gelateria Latte & Co
Gelato and cannoli. I don’t think I need to say anything more, do I?
Good (and cheap) pizza at Pizzeria Nenne
From the outside, this place might not immediately win you over. It’s a small spot with some bold branding featuring two guys. Inside, it’s lit by fluorescent lights and furnished with white plastic chairs — not exactly promising. But in Italy, it’s never about the decor; it’s about the taste. And the taste is good. Those two guys from the branding? They’re both actually in there working. The service is relaxed and easy-going, and you can get a solid pizza for around $10 (€10).
Restaurant The Butcher
While looking for a good dinner spot, I come across The Butcher, a meat restaurant with beautiful cuts on display in the window. This is the place for a proper steak. Unfortunately, it’s fully booked. Still worth mentioning though, because it looks really promising and has great reviews. Just make sure to reserve ahead.
Drinks at wine bar Nardi
If you’re looking for a lively terrace scene, head to Via Leonardo Cambini. Young and old come here to drink and eat. We start the evening at wine bar Nardi, where you can choose from a huge selection of wines by the glass and an even bigger selection by the bottle. You can also order small bites at the bar — think bruschetta — so make sure to grab a few of those too. There’s both a terrace and seating inside.
Modern Italian food at Il Cardell’INO in Città
Right on the same street as the wine bar is Il Cardell’INO in Città. The restaurant looks modern, and the menu is too — all contemporary takes on Italian classics. The portions are more than generous. My dining companion and I start with an antipasto and a primo, and by that point, there’s simply no room left for a main course. Still absolutely delicious — I just wish my stomach were bigger!
More food and drink tips in Livorno
- La Casina di Alice: vegan restaurant (Google Maps location)
- Sketch: for cocktails (Google Maps location)
- Yatai Mad: Japanese comfort food (Google Maps location)
As you can see, there’s a great cluster of restaurants and bars around Via Leonardo Cambini. So if you’re looking for dinner in Livorno without a reservation, that’s the street to wander down.
More travel inspiration for Italy
Useful links for your Italy trip
- Accommodation. Have a look at Booking.com and Campspace. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide and Viator. For ‘free’ walking tours, check out Freetour and GuruWalk, and for bike tours, try Baja Bikes.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Always compare prices and insurance coverage. DiscoverCars and Rentalcars.com often have good deals.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Amazon.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Trains and buses. Book busses and trains in Italy with Omio or Busbud.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? There are plenty of choices. Start at Expedia or CheapOair.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Definitely check out Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Yoga retreat. Or try a yoga retreat in Italy.
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