Latest update: 30 July 2024
Liverdun is a small village on the Moselle River in northeastern France. Never heard of it? I understand. But maybe you’ve heard of madeleines? Those tasty cakes are made here. Well, you don’t have to tell me that twice!
Madeleines in Lorraine
I am on a press trip in Nancy, and on the way back, I want to make a short stop in Liverdun. Why? Because they make madeleines. These are airy cakes in the shape of a shell. They are originally from this region, the Lorraine. The story goes that in the 18th or 19th century, there was a cook named Madeleine, and she invented these cakes. The other explanation for the name is that ‘madeline’ is the French word for a seashell. Both are plausible explanations if you ask me.
Liverdun madeleines
Liverdun’s madeleines are world-famous – in the region, anyway. They are made according to a secret recipe from baker Joseph Rouvenacht and his servant Marcel Chanel, dating back to 1922. The recipe turns out to be a keeper and is passed on to Marcel’s sons and grandson. Now, you can still get the Madeleines from the original recipe in the Liverdun shop.
The logo shows an old grandmother, a mâmiche, snacking on a madeleine. The drawing was made in the 1930s by Jean Scherbeck, an artist from Nancy. The old sweetie is clearly enjoying the cake. And so do I. Liverdun’s madeleine is slightly crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. There is a kind of bubble on top, which is unique to madeleines from Liverdun – at least as far as I know. The cake is sweet, but not too sweet, and tastes a bit like vanilla. I can’t stop eating; they are so airy.
I eat a madeleine from a plastic package in southern France a while later. I know, I shouldn’t expect too much from it. You’re right. It is a dry, sickly sweet cake. So, stock up on a box or two in Liverdun!
Tip! Want to try the madeleines at home? Here’s a recipe.
Walk through the center of Liverdun
If you park your car opposite the madeleine shop, you can easily enter the village of Liverdun and take a walk. It’s small, so you can finish your ‘tour around town’ in half an hour. At least, on a Sunday morning, because then nothing is open, except the madeleine shop. At other times, it might take you a little longer, because hopefully the small shops and galleries will have opened their doors for you.
Liverdun is a cute, characteristic, typical French village. With colored shutters, almost decayed window frames, and, where possible, flower pots. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any nice cafes during my short visit. So I’ll stick to the madeleines.
Sights in Liverdun
Liverdun is on the Moselle banks and has quite some height differences. Time to train those calves! For example, on Adam’s long stairs (Google Maps location) where you have a beautiful view of the greenery in the area. Then, walk past the Château Corbin (Google Maps location). You cannot visit it; you can only view it outside.
A little further on is the old washing place of Liverdun (Google Maps location), and then you walk to the Place de la Fontaine (Google Maps location). The name says it all: the square with the fountain. Trade used to take place here, and the fountain was fed by a spring, which also supplied the other fountains of Liverdun with water through a large cistern.
I then walk towards the former governor’s house (Google Maps location), because if you walk under the city gate there, you have a beautiful view over the river. I can imagine that it is nice to walk here. A lot of people stay at the campsite in Liverdun (this one) because it is nice and quiet here, and there is a lot of nature to discover in the area. And of course you can also take a trip to Nancy!
More inspiration for travel in France?
Helpful links for your France trip
- Accommodation. All-time favorites: Booking.com and Campspace for unique camping spots. Rather stay in a hostel? Check out Hostelworld.
- Activities. You book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide and Viator. You can find other good options at WithLocals. Check out Freetour and GuruWalk for ‘free’ walking tours, and for bike tours, try Baja Bikes. If you’re into wine: check out all the wine-related activities at Rue des Vignerons.
- Attractions and museums. Book museum and attraction tickets with Tiqets and get a 5% discount with this code: KIMOPREIS22.
- Car rental. Want to compare prices? Check out Discover Cars and Rental Cars.
- Flights. Definitely compare prices! Try Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Maybe Expedia or CheapOair has a good option.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high calling and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train and bus. Travel by train to France with NS International, or plan your trip via Trainline. Or find deals on trains and busses in France via Busbud, Omio, or 12Go.
- Travel guides. I love the practical travel guides from Lonely Planet, buy them at Amazon.
- Yoga retreat. And what about a yoga retreat in France?
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