South Korea itinerary for 3 weeks

South Korea route overview

I travel this 21-day route mostly by public transportation, except for Jeju — you have to fly there. On the island, I also rent a car. But everything else is easy to do by bus and train. The route starts and ends in Seoul, and it’s a great mix of city, nature, and culture. From waterfalls to food — lots and lots of food.

This is the itinerary:

Seoul (4 nights) | Sokcho (2 nights) | Gangneung (1 night) | Andong (2 nights) | Gyeongju (1 night) | Tongyeong (3 nights) | Jinju (1 night) | Busan (3 nights) | Jeju (3 nights) | Seoul (1 night)

Practical info for your trip

Before you head out, it’s worth doing a little preparation. My practical tips for South Korea cover everything you need to know about money, SIM cards, apps, and more. Public transportation in South Korea is excellent, and a T-money card gets you pretty much everywhere. And to get in the right mood, check out my guide on eating in South Korea, because the cuisine is a whole story in itself.

Days 1–4: Arrival in Seoul

Seoul is such a massive megacity that you could easily spend three weeks there alone. But I want to see more of South Korea, so I plan three days and four nights in Seoul. On the first day, I arrive late, and I go straight to bed.

The days after that are packed with palaces, hanok neighborhoods, busy markets, and a whole lot of coffee. I do a food tour at Gwangjang Market (a great intro to Korean cuisine), wander through the hip Ikseon-dong area, and look down on a city that just never stops. Three days feels like a first date. A really good first date — but one that leaves you wanting more

Where to stay: Hongdae Guesthouse Pajama Party
➜ Read more: Things to do in Seoul, South Korea
➜ Read more: From dumplings to bingsu: eating in Seoul

Days 5 & 6: Sokcho & Seoraksan — hiking in the rain

From Seoul, I take the bus to Sokcho, a coastal town on the east coast best known as a base for Seoraksan National Park. And that park is really the main reason to come here. Temples, a giant Buddha statue, hikes through the forest along a mountain river — it’s a welcome change from the cities. Although I would have preferred to see it without the constant rain.

Sokcho itself is compact and laid-back. There’s a beach, a Ferris wheel, some good coffee spots, and in the evening, you can grab a table at a restaurant for Korean BBQ with shellfish. On a sunny day, you’d have a great beach day here too.

Where to stay: Urbanstay Sokcho Beach via Booking, but often cheaper at Trip
➜ Read more: Sokcho: tips for your base near Seoraksan
➜ Read more: Hiking in Seoraksan National Park

Day 7: Gangneung — South Korea’s coffee capital

Gangneung is known as South Korea’s coffee capital. I picture barista workshops, coffee tastings, something like a coffee-themed Disneyland. It’s not that. But what it is: a relaxed coastal town with a long row of coffee shops along the beach, a lively market, and a large lake perfect for a gentle walk.

I only have a long afternoon and one night, so I make choices. Coffee with a sea view on Anmok Coffee Street, a stroll along Gyeongpo Lake, and in the evening joining a line at a fried chicken stall at the market — purely because everyone else is doing it. Was it the best chicken ever? No. But at least I can say I’ve done it.

Where to stay: Airbnb in the city center
➜ Read more: Things to do in Gangneung

Days 8 & 9: Andong — the cultural heart of South Korea

Andong is known as the cultural capital of South Korea. The main draw is Hahoe Folk Village, a village a few miles outside of town where families have lived for more than six hundred years. Honestly, I was expecting an open-air museum. It’s not. People actually live here, vegetables grow in gardens, and cats roam around. A beautiful thing to see.

There’s plenty to do in the city itself, too: the Wolyeonggyo Bridge at dusk and lit up after dark, a visit to the Soju Museum (free, educational, with surprisingly bizarre translations), and Korean BBQ with beef short ribs in the evening.

Where to stay: Yam Hotel
➜ Read more: Things to do in Andong
➜ Read more: Visiting Hahoe Folk Village

Days 11–13: Tongyeong — harbor town on the south coast

Tongyeong doesn’t appear on many South Korea itineraries, and that’s exactly why I booked three nights there. The town has a beautiful harbor with historic turtle-shaped warships, streets full of murals in Dongpirang Village, and a cable car up to a mountaintop with views over the islands out at sea. The area around the harbor is small, compact, and a really nice place to wander around for a few days.

Oysters are the specialty of Tongyeong, and I end up eating them in more preparations than I thought possible: raw, steamed, mixed into rice, in a pancake, and fried — all in one meal.

One day, I take the ferry to Bijindo Island for a 3-mile (4.5 km) hike along the rocky coastline and through the forest, with sea views. Wonderfully quiet — exactly the kind of excursion I need after a stretch of busy cities.

Where to stay: Present Hostel via Booking, but often cheaper via Trip
➜ Read more: Tongyeong: things to do and tips
➜ Read more: Island hopping from Tongyeong

Day 14: Jinju — lantern festival on the river

I put Jinju on the route because of the lantern festival, but the city has more to offer than I expected. The memory of the war with Japan in the 16th century is kept very much alive here, with the fortress right on the Namgang River and the festival itself. The tradition of lanterns on the water goes back to citizens who floated lights downstream to honor those who had fallen.

That festival has since grown into a massive production. Hundreds of light installations float on the river, food stalls line the banks, and there are performances on several stages. Tip: Eat yukhoe bibimbap at Cheonhwang Restaurant, a Jinju institution from 1915, where very little seems to have changed since then.

Where to stay: Golden Tulip hotel via Booking, but often cheaper at Trip
➜ Read more: Jinju: lantern festival and more

Days 15–17: Busan — and a night in a temple

Busan is South Korea’s second city and has a vibe all its own. More relaxed than Seoul, with beaches, mountains, an overwhelming fish market, and Gamcheon Culture Village — a neighborhood full of pastel-colored houses and street art climbing up a steep hillside.

I spent one night at Beomeosa temple in the mountains just outside the city. Alarm at 3:45 a.m., temple outfit on, attending the morning prayer while the monks are already deep in their chanting. Vegetarian food, sleeping on a thin mat, taking part in centuries-old rituals. It’s a little awkward, but also really special.

Where to stay: Urbanstay Boutique Nampo BIFF via Booking, but often cheaper at Trip (and one night at the temple)
➜ Read more: Things to do in Busan
➜ Read more: Temple stay at Beomeosa temple
➜ Read more: The best restaurants and cafes in Busan

Days 18–20: Jeju — volcanoes, waterfalls, and green tea

From the mainland, I fly to Jeju, South Korea’s largest island. Jeju is bigger than you’d think. Three days isn’t enough to see everything, and that’s fine. I use Seogwipo in the south as my base and do day trips from there. Waterfalls, a hike along the rugged basalt coast, a tea session, and a visit to the Arte Museum. Jeju has a completely different pace from the cities on the mainland. After three weeks of traveling, that feels exactly right.

Jeju is famous for green tea. The tea plantations are absolutely stunning, and a tea session is a must on your to-do list. In between, you drink coffee with ocean views, and in the evening, you eat black pork — the local specialty.

At the end of your last afternoon, you fly back to Seoul. Or a bit earlier if you want to squeeze in some more time in the city.

Where to stay: Tamraka County House
➜ Read more: Things to do on Jeju
➜ Read more: Things to do in Seogwipo
➜ Read more: Food and drinks on Jeju
➜ Read more: The best coffee spots on Jeju