This post is also available in:
Latest update: 13 December 2024
In southeastern Iceland, Höfn sits on the tip of a peninsula. People traveling through southern Iceland usually don’t make it to the capital of langoustine. Too bad, because in Höfn, of course, you eat langoustine and imagine yourself almost alone in the world.
Beyond the attractions
Most people come as far as the glacial lagoon of Jökulsárlón, see Diamond Beach there, and return toward Vík or the Golden Circle. Those who do a full tour of Iceland drive on to Höfn and beyond. And we do too, because we think it’s also fun to venture outside the tourist highlights.
Uninhabited world
From Jökulsárlón, it is another hour’s drive to Höfn. An hour that feels like four hours because our tank is getting empty, and there isn’t a gas station until Höfn. Drive 70 km/h, heating off, music off, and hope that it will be okay. We are too stressed to appreciate the beautiful route. Mostly, we see a lot of uninhabited world. So learn from our mistake: if you rent a car in Iceland, ensure you fill up on time!
Fortunately, we drive the same route back later and do have time to enjoy the details. Only then do we see the moose and the secluded farms. The vast landscape, the lava fields, the gigantic mountains, and the swirling snow. The irregular lunar landscape and the frozen waterfalls. Everyone always says Iceland is so beautiful, but only once I’m in the country do I truly understand how beautiful it is.
Local (?) langoustines
Höfn is a fishing village and famous for humar: the langoustine. It’s a bit confusing, though, because it’s often translated as lobster. And perhaps even worse: langoustine catches are not what they used to be, so some langoustines are even imported, it says in my Lonely Planet AND confirmed by the owners of Arnanes Country Hotel.
The peak season for langoustines used to be from mid-May to August. But scientists have shut down langoustine fishing for now to give the population time to recover. This is a bit disappointing, but I pretend not to know and enjoy the (imported) langoustines in Höfn anyway. There is still a langoustine festival in June/July. For the exact date of the Humarhátíð, please refer to Facebook.
Port town of Höfn
Where there is fishing, there is a harbor. Also in Höfn. Not surprisingly, Höfn translates as “harbor”. It is primarily a practical fishing port with no fancy yachts or anything. You can take a short walk along the harbor and follow the shoreline. Meanwhile, you have views of the mountains and sea.
Bird paradise Ósland
Adjacent to the port is the Ósland area. The nature here is marshy and attracts many birds. I am not much of a birder, and the weather is not cooperating (rain, snow, wind), so I missed them. I did take the car to Ósland to check out the memorial to lost fishermen, but I would have preferred to walk the loop. In the summer, this is probably pleasant, though. By the way, you can also do a yoga and mindfulness walk here. You can find more info on that here.
What are fun activities from Höfn?
From Höfn you can do all kinds of activities. Here are some suggestions:
- Ice caves and glaciers in Vatnajökull National Park
- Visit the black waterfall Svartifoss
- Stroll along Stokksnes beach
- A boat trip along the ice floes of Fjallsárlón
- Iceland’s deepest glacial lake: Jókulsárlón
- Mega ice diamonds viewing at Diamond Beach
Perfect base in Höfn
As you read, Höfn is more of a good base than there is much to do in the town itself. It is a nice place to retreat and process the day’s impressions.
Or actually, just outside Höfn you’ll be in an even better place. At the Arnanes Country Hotel, for example (Google Maps location).
Arnanes Country Hotel
About 6 kilometers outside Höfn, I imagine myself in the middle of nowhere, where the Arnanes Country Hotel offers warm accommodation. This is the countryside for real. The wooden accommodation makes it very cozy and warm. The weather turns from cold and sunny to even colder and snowy. That immediately gives a very different vibe.
As soon as it snows harder, I almost imagine myself in an Alpine cottage. Outside in the meadow are Icelandic horses. They don’t care about the snow. I turn up the heating in our room.
I love that the room is quite large. Including a couch and a kettle. This makes it feel just a little more homey. The shower room is also large, and the water is nice and hot. With the snow and wind outside, that’s really a treat. You can check out all the rooms here. There are 22 in total, and most have private bathrooms.
Breakfast and dinner at Arnanes Country Hotel
The Arnanes Country Hotel’s restaurant is open from May to September, so unfortunately, I didn’t get to try out the cuisine. Too bad, because they cook here with local products as much as possible, which I always find a big plus. But luckily, you can have breakfast at the hotel all year round. And breakfast at Arnanes Country Hotel is really a treat. The buffet table is packed with local and homemade products like lamb pate and bread.
In front of the restaurant is a terrace where I can imagine fine summer evenings. But even now, inside, this is a pleasant place, because everywhere you look, you have fantastic views of the mountains. There is a small stage with drums and guitar amps, so I’m guessing there is live music occasionally. Great! Anyway, there is also space to just sit on a couch reading a book or playing a game at the table. Check the website to see if they have a room available for you.
Restaurant tips in Höfn
If you didn’t manage to get a table for dinner at the Arnanes Country Hotel, you can also have a great meal in downtown Höfn. Pakkhús Restaurant is at least the most popular choice when I am there. Without a reservation, there is a 45-minute wait at 7:30 in the evening. According to the manager, this is the case every night. But I am too hungry to wait for that, so we go to the neighboring place: Ishusid Pizzeria Restaurant.
Ishusid Pizzeria Restaurant
Ishusid is the shelter for people who cannot go to Pakkhús it seems. And it is a fine alternative. There is a limited menu and you place your order at the bar. Of course, we go for a pizza with langoustines. It’s also the most expensive (ISK 4250 in 2024). The price of a pizza starts at ISK 2200 and for a beer (0.4L) you pay ISK 1500. A glass of water, as at most restaurants, is free. The pizza comes quickly and is well-made. Only those Icelandic prices kind of spoil the fun, don’t they?
Pakkhús Restaurant
The next day, we knock on the door early (Dutch dinner time) at Pakkhús Restaurant, and luckily, there is room. It is strangely enough quite cold; people sit with coats on and hats on. We order langoustines with garlic and duck with pork. Generous prices, generous portions. And it’s all very well-prepared. The duck slides off the bone, the pork is super tender, and the langoustines have a good garlic flavor without the garlic displacing all other flavors. I can see why this is such a popular restaurant in Höfn.
More Iceland inspiration?
Useful links for your Iceland trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare more prices, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Guidebooks. I like paper travel guides to flip through, available for sale Amazon and others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Trip, Skyscanner, and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? See what Expedia or CheapOair has on offer.
- Yoga retreat or horseback riding vacation. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Iceland or a horseback riding vacation.
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links. If you buy something through these links, I might receive a small commission.
I stayed at the Arnanes Country Hotel by invitation. I was given complete editorial freedom by them.
First published April 2024. The article has been updated since.
