Certaldo in Tuscany: tips for this charming medieval village

Getting to Certaldo Alto by funicular

Certaldo is actually made up of two parts: the newer, modern section down below and Certaldo Alto, the medieval part at the top of the hill. Certaldo Alto is what draws visitors.

In the lower town, you can park your car for free (Google Maps location) and walk to the funicular in about five to ten minutes. The funicular is a small cable car that takes you up for €1.40 (~$1.55) one way or €1.70 (~$1.85) return. The ride takes only a few minutes, and on the way back, we choose to walk down instead. It’s not that far and pretty easy, since it’s downhill.

At the top, Certaldo Alto’s main street — Via Giovanni Boccaccio — awaits, along with a handful of side streets, a church, the Palazzo Pretorio, and a few restaurants. From various spots, you get great views over the Val d’Elsa. On a clear day, you can even spot the towers of San Gimignano in the distance.

Giovanni Boccaccio: Certaldo’s most famous resident

Certaldo and Boccaccio are inseparable. Giovanni Boccaccio, the medieval author of Decamerone grew up here and died here in 1375. Chances are, you haven’t read that book. Neither have I. But there is a Netflix series based on it, so maybe watch that before you go — here’s the link.

Halfway along Via Giovanni Boccaccio in Certaldo Alto, you’ll find Casa Boccaccio (Google Maps location), his former home, now a museum. You can visit the library, see a fresco in which he appears, and climb the tower for the view.

A combo ticket for Casa Boccaccio and the Palazzo Pretorio costs just a few euros. And a little further along, in the Chiesa dei Santi Jacopo e Filippo, Boccaccio is buried.

Dinner at Ristorante L’Antica Fonte

I head to Certaldo Alto around sunset and need a restaurant. I end up at Ristorante L’Antica Fonte. The restaurant has a cozy terrace with a beautiful view. Friendly service, a good sommelier, and yes: the food is delicious.

The only downside? The pace is relentless. My plate gets cleared while I’m still chewing my last bite. It all moves so fast that we end up taking half a bottle of wine back to the hotel. Great meal, but a little more time to breathe would have been nice.

Google Maps location

Wine tasting at A Solatio

In Certaldo, you’ll find my favorite winery in Tuscany: A Solatio. It’s small-scale, personal, and very, very good. Owners Raffaello and Donella welcome you with open arms, pour glasses of organic Super Tuscans, and put together the most delicious snacks to go with them. I visited for the first time years ago, and the second time was just as good — maybe even better than I remembered. Read all about it in my full article on the wine tasting at A Solatio.

Hiking through the Tuscan hills

Feel like stretching your legs? This is a great spot for it. You can go on wonderful walks through the Tuscan hills. I set off from my accommodation (Fattoria il Bacio). The GPS doesn’t quite do what it’s supposed to, so I end up on a slightly different route than planned. But honestly, that doesn’t matter much. You walk past vineyards, through forests, and along hilltop paths with sweeping views. This was my route on Komoot — but be ready to improvise a bit when the GPS decides to take a break. Wear good shoes and bring water.

Where to stay: Fattoria il Bacio

For this trip, I am staying at Fattoria il Bacio, an agriturismo in the hills of Certaldo. And what a place. Views over the vineyards and olive groves, surrounded by hills, and a swimming pool. In the morning, you wake up to birds singing and bees humming.

The rooms are simple but clean, with a small kitchenette. Well, I say kitchenette: there are pots, dishes, and cutlery, but that’s about it. No oil, no salt and pepper, no coffee pods. I always find that a bit stingy. But then again, you’re not there to cook. I’ll happily leave that to the Italians.

There’s a bottle of wine in the room, which is a lovely touch. Fattoria il Bacio makes its own wine, and you can also do a tasting or have dinner there — but you have to ask about it yourself, because the staff doesn’t volunteer the information. So if you’re interested, speak up.

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