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Latest update: 31 January 2025
It’s mouse-quiet, and calling it “remote” is the understatement of the century. The Davit Gareja cave monastery complex in Georgia seems like it’s from another planet or an abandoned movie set. But nope – monks still live here, and you can actually visit this cave monastery!
Ancient cave monastery
Somewhere in the 6th century, missionaries decided it would be a brilliant idea to establish a monastery inside a mountain. They grabbed their 6th-century hammer and chisel, and 18 centuries later, here I am exploring the carefully constructed caves. How wild is that?
I’ve already been to the cave city of Uplistsikhe in Georgia, but that’s completely different from Davit Gareja. Davit Gareja isn’t a city but a cave monastery. Unfortunately, I couldn’t see much of Davit Gareja because a large portion became off-limits due to border issues in winter 2024.
Border sensitivities
Online, I read about the beautiful frescoes in the monastery. But that section isn’t accessible during my visit. The Davit Gareja cave monastery sits right on the Azerbaijan border, which causes tension. Both countries “claim” Davit Gareja, meaning it can unexpectedly close. The Udabono monastery, the one with the frescoes, has been inaccessible since January 2024. Border guards will send you back. So definitely check the current situation before planning your trip.
Davit Gareja, who?
It’s a shame that this disagreement affects this particular place. A place where devout believers seek peace and quiet. The name Davit Gareja comes from the apostle Davit Gareja. He founded this cave monastery in eastern Georgia. He thought it was the perfect spot for monks to focus on their faith undisturbed. In Tbilisi, the Kasveti church stands where a woman who claimed to be pregnant with Davit’s child gave birth to a stone – exactly as Davit Gareja had predicted.
Extreme silence
The Davit Gareja cave monastery is surrounded by rolling hills as far as the eye can see. When my dad and I drive from Signagi to the monastery, it feels like we’re the only people on Earth. We barely pass any cars – you could count them on one hand. The same goes for the shepherds.
On this clear winter day, it’s extremely quiet at the monastery. When we drive up, a lady rushes to the toilet facilities, hoping to earn a lari (about $0.37). Inside the monastery, we see one Orthodox monk. Above, we hear the border guards. Otherwise, there’s not a soul in sight.
It’s practically silent. Just the whisper of the wind. The landscape is brown and barren. Desert-like. It may be officially a desert, I’m not sure. I can imagine it gets blazing hot here in summer. Since there aren’t any real facilities, you need to make sure you bring enough water.
The monasteries of Davit Gareja
Davit Gareja isn’t just one monastery. It consists of fifteen monasteries spread across a large area. The one I visit – and most people visit – is Lavra. From Lavra, you can also hike up the hill to Udabno. But I read that if you want to do both, you should plan for two to three hours and a good hike (about 1.9 miles). You might also run into border guards who’ll want to see your passport and might send you back to your car.
So, my dad and I stick to the Lavra monastery. It’s disappointing that there isn’t much of this cave monastery to see after such a long drive. Which makes sense since Orthodox monks live here to this day. I wouldn’t want tourists in my house either. Even the small chapel is closed. We have to make do with the exterior.
Lavra monastery
The Lavra monastery is a combination of cave, wood, and stone. Around the caves, additions have been built to make them livable in modern times. The walls feature decorative brickwork. There’s a lower courtyard where you can walk around freely. Some areas are marked off with signs. Please respect these boundaries. Also, drone flying is not allowed here.
Rainbow Mountains of Georgia
From the parking lot, you can see the ‘rainbow mountain’: a series of hills that show various color gradients in the right light. You might be able to recreate it with some Photoshop, but it’s not super obvious to the naked eye. I can see it better in my photo. The best rainbow mountains are apparently a bit further away.
How to visit Davit Gareja Cave Monastery yourself
It’s about 1.5 to 2 hours by car from Tbilisi to Davit Gareja and about 1.5 hours from Signagi. I went by rental car and really enjoyed the drive. What a beautifully vast landscape. The roads are generally decent. The worst part is the traffic in Tbilisi.
I rented from Sunny Cars, but you can also check Discover Cars to compare prices. I always like Sunny Cars because everything’s included with their insurance.
Private driver to Davit Gareja
Okay okay, that sounds super fancy, but a private driver is actually quite affordable, especially if you’re traveling with several people. You might even spend less than with a tour. And a big advantage is that you can travel at your own pace. On GoTrip‘s website, you can add different stops and see the costs immediately. Perfect.
Take a tour to Davit Gareja
Tours depart daily from Tbilisi to Davit Gareja and the ‘rainbow mountains’. Some tours combine the cave monastery with a visit to Sighnaghi, a wine tasting, or something else.
More Georgia travel inspiration?
Useful links for your Georgia trip
- Accommodation. Favorite remains Booking.com. Would you rather stay in a hostel? Check Hostelworld.
- Activities. Book the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide, Klook, and Viator. ‘Free’ walking tours can be booked at Freetour.com or GuruWalk.
- Car rental. If you want to compare prices and insurance coverage, try Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com. In Georgia, a private transfer or tour with a private driver is often very affordable. Use GoTrip for this.
- Reading tip. If you like reading, I recommend buying this fantastic book: The Eighth Life (for Brilka). It is about generations of women living and suffering in Georgia. More than 1000 pages, so get cozy and comfortable!
- Travel guides. I like paper travel guides to browse through, for sale at Amazon, among others.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo.
- Train and Bus Travel by train or bus through Georgia with Busbud, 12Go, or Omio.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check out Skyscanner and Kiwi.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Start your search at Expedia or CheapOair.
- Yoga retreat. Or treat yourself to a yoga retreat in Georgia.
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