Nyons tips: the olive town of the Drôme

The market of Nyons

Every Thursday, the center of Nyons turns into a big open-air market. About 200 stalls sell everything from delicious cheeses to a cute shirt. You’ll also find plenty of olive oil, honey, vegetables, and lavender. I hear a lot of Dutch around me, so don’t expect to be the only tourist in Nyons on a Thursday.

Free tip: come a day early on Wednesday and spend the night in Nyons. That way you see Nyons without the stalls and the crowds, and you can actually take in the town’s charm at a slower pace. Between all the market stalls, it’s hard to really notice how charming the town is.

The Pont Romain: a bridge with history

Nyons has a gorgeous bridge: the Pont Romain. Based on the name, you’d think this is a Roman bridge, but nope. It actually dates back to the Middle Ages. Construction started in 1341, but due to a lack of funds, it wasn’t consecrated by the Bishop of Vaison until 1409. The bridge is 141 feet (43 meters) long and nearly 62 feet (19 meters) high, which apparently makes it one of the largest single-arch medieval bridges in France. I mostly think it’s a gorgeous sight above the Eygues River.

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La Scourtinerie: the last factory of its kind

Just outside the center of Nyons (but still within walking distance), you’ll find La Scourtinerie. This is the last place in France where scourtins are still made: woven discs of coconut fiber used to filter olive oil. These days the focus is mostly on decoration, but the scourtins are definitely still being made.

La Scourtinerie is a family business founded back in 1882, now run by Sophie and her mother. They’re happy to introduce you to the craft.

You can walk through the museum and the workshop on your own, for free and without an appointment, year-round. The museum covers the family history and the evolution of scourtin-making. Everything is currently mostly in French, though Sophie assures me they’re working on that. From the museum, you end up in the workshop, where you can watch the family at work, partly with machines and partly by hand. Really fun to peek in on.

Plan for 45 minutes to an hour for the museum, workshop, and shop combined. Would you rather join a guided tour explaining exactly how a scourtin is made? That’s possible from September through May. In summer, guided tours are only offered for groups. Book ahead through the contact page.

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Olives and olive oil at Maison des Huiles & Olives

Nyons is known for black olives and really good olive oil. At Maison des Huiles & Olives, you can get an easy introduction to both. There’s a small museum with a shop where you can buy the products. The museum costs a few euros (a few dollars) per person, and you can buy a ticket at the register.

But you can also get hands-on yourself. There are various workshops you can join: tastings, cooking classes, creative workshops, and even making soap from olive oil. Plenty to choose from.

The workshops change with the seasons. You might learn to make tapenade or a full Provençal meal. Book through the online ticket shop. Check the current schedule beforehand, since the offerings and dates change throughout the year, and ask if the workshop is also offered in English or German if you don’t speak French.

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