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Latest update: 20 January 2026
Jinju isn’t among the most popular destinations in South Korea. And that’s actually unfair, because this city has an interesting story, a beautiful fortress, and one of the most stunning light festivals in the country. I’ll tell you what to see and where to eat in Jinju.
Why Jinju?
When I travel, I always check if a special event or festival is happening during my visit. And in South Korea, I’m lucky. The light festival in Jinju is happening in October. It lasts over a week, so I make sure I can catch a day of it.
Jinju is located in the south of South Korea, in the Gyeongsangnam-do province. The city has an important history revolving around the Imjin War (also known as the Seven-Year War), the war between Korea and Japan at the end of the 16th century. And you can still see that history in Jinju today.
Jinjuseong Fortress: the fort with a story
The Jinju fortress sits right on the Namgang River and is the main thing you need to see in the city. The complex is extensive and comprises various temples, pavilions, a museum, and a beautiful garden. You can easily spend a few hours wandering around.
The fortress played a crucial role during the Imjin War. In October 1592, about 3,800 soldiers and civilians defended the fortress for ten days against 20,000 Japanese attackers. They used lanterns on the river as a military tactic to prevent enemy crossings and to send messages.
In June 1593, the second battle took place here. 70,000 Korean soldiers, officials, and civilians fought against the invasion. The fortress became a symbol of resistance. Later, civilians started floating lanterns on the Namgang River to honor the spirits of the fallen. That tradition has grown into the Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival, which you can still see every year.
Chokseongnu Pavilion
The Chokseongnu Pavilion is one of the first major structures you see when you enter the fortress through the eastern gate. This pavilion is a symbol of Jinju and is often seen as one of the two most famous pavilions in the country. The view from the pavilion over the river is stunning (and colorful during the light festival), and the building itself is also worth checking out – pay special attention to the intricate construction and decorations.
Uigisa Shrine: the story of Nongae
Near the Chokseongnu Pavilion lies the Uigisa Shrine, dedicated to Nongae. Nongae was a young woman who sacrificed her life for the country during the Japanese invasion of 1592-1593. The name Uigisa means “shrine of the righteous entertainer.”
In 1593, the Jinju fortress fell into enemy hands. During a celebratory banquet by the Japanese troops, Nongae lured a drunk Japanese general to the river’s edge. There she embraced him, pulled him with her, and threw herself together with him into the Namgang River. They both died. This happened at Uiam Rock, which you can see from the pavilion.
The Dragon Bridge legend
There’s another tragic love story connected to the fortress. There once was a stone bridge decorated with two dragon heads. According to the legend, a provincial governor once lived in Jinju with three daughters. The second daughter returned to her mother’s house because her husband died shortly after their wedding. Dolsoi, a servant of the governor, fell in love with this lady. But their love couldn’t be because of their different social positions. The lady wasted away until she died.
Later, when the governor crossed the Dragon Bridge to leave, he looked for Dolsoi to say goodbye. He soon discovered that Dolsoi had hanged himself from an old tree by the bridge. Suddenly, he heard crying from what sounded like thousands of frogs under the bridge. They sounded like Dolsoi’s crying as he died. People say these frogs stop crying when a couple – married or not – walks by. Unfortunately, the bridge is no longer there; it’s been lost. Though there are supposedly still some remnants here and there.
Jinju National Museum
The fortress complex also houses the Jinju National Museum. It looks modern and clearly tells the story of the war with Japan. You see weapons, clothing, documents, and reconstructions. You also learn about daily life during that time. Even if history isn’t your thing, I think this museum is worth your time.
Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival: grand light spectacle
I put Jinju on the travel route specifically because of the Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival, a light festival. This lantern festival takes place every year in October and is way bigger than I expected.
What can you expect?
Already during the day, you see all kinds of ‘light sculptures’ on the fortress grounds: large installations that get lit up in the evening, from Star Wars figures to K-pop cats and historical references.
Along the river, on both sides, are lots of little stalls selling souvenirs and food. You can also make your own small lantern and let it float in the water. There are different stages with performances, from traditional dance to modern K-pop acts. In short, there are all kinds of activities, but just taking a walk is already quite an experience.
It’s quite a large area, so some decorated bridges make it easy to cross from one side of the river to the other. For ₩2,000 (about $1.40 or €1.30), you can cross one decorated bridge; for ₩6,000, all three. We walk across the regular bridge for free. From there, you already see so much: hundreds of light installations float in the water. A melting ice cream as a globe, all kinds of animals, traditional Korean symbols… It’s really awesome.
There’s also a constructed walkway full of lanterns. They’re numbered, so I suspect you can ‘sponsor’ your own in advance so you can find your lantern back. A nice way to financially support the festival, because this is really a massive production.
- When: Early to mid-October, check the official website for exact dates
- Cost: Free entrance to the festival grounds, bridges from ₩2,000
Jungang Market: local market
Jungang Market is the place for daily groceries, household items, and clothing. It’s partly covered, partly outside. Don’t expect touristy stuff; this is where locals do their shopping. Nice to walk through for a bit and see what daily life in Jinju looks like.
Food and drinks in Jinju
Because of the light festival, we mainly eat at the food stalls there. But we’ve also tried a few things that are open year-round.
Jinju bibimbap at Cheonhwang Restaurant
Jinju has its own version of bibimbap. Where other bibimbap is often vegetarian, the Jinju variant stands out for its use of yukhoe (raw beef) and abundant sesame oil. It’s one of the most famous local dishes.
Cheonhwang Restaurant has been in business since 1915 and is an institution in Jinju. It’s a real family business. Grandmother Kang Moon-sook started a grocery store in 1915 under the name ‘Cheonan Restaurant’. The restaurant is still in the same spot and continues the tradition.
In this restaurant, only old Korean ladies seem to work in service and the kitchen, almost entirely dressed in white plastic suits. In the back is a whole collection of fermentation pots where they ferment everything themselves. It feels nicely old-fashioned and casual. As if nothing has changed since 1915.
Order the grilled bulgogi and yukhoe bibimbap – everyone around us seems to be ordering the same thing. We initially decline the hot sauce, but feel we’re missing out on flavor. So ask for it on the side. The pace is fast, the atmosphere is authentic. Don’t miss it!
Yakitori Aoi: Japanese chicken skewers
If you’re not in the mood for Korean food, go to Yakitori Aoi. This Japanese restaurant serves all kinds of chicken skewers, as well as ramen and rice bowls. The ramen is actually just a bit too spicy for me, but still very tasty.
Martin: coffee and vinyl
Martin is a coffee shop where electronic music plays, and you can also buy vinyl. Hipster, then. The coffee is good, and they’re busy right in front of us, baking bread and sweets. A nice, relaxed atmosphere.
Staying in Jinju: Golden Tulip
We stay at the Golden Tulip hotel. It’s neat but basic. From the 13th floor, you have a nice view of the city. There’s also a rooftop terrace where you can sit pretty comfortably. Just bring your own drink, though, because there’s no bar or anything like that up there.
Compare prices at Agoda, Trip, and Booking.
Practical info Jinju
How to get there: From Seoul, take the bus or train to Jinju. The journey takes about 3-4 hours. From Busan it’s about 1.5 hours. I took a bus from Tongyeong to Jinju, and it took about an hour (from Tongyeong’s central bus station). Book buses on Tmoney mobility and trains via Korail.
How long to stay: One night is enough to see the main attractions, but if you come during the lantern festival, you can easily fill two days.
Best time to visit: October for the Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival. Outside the festival, Jinju can of course be visited year-round.
More South Korea inspiration
Useful links for your South Korea trip
- Accommodation. Always handy is Booking.com, but compare prices. Trip is often much cheaper in South Korea. Rather stay in a hostel? Try HostelWorld.
- Activities. You can book the best tours and activities with GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator. You can book ‘free’ walking tours at Freetour and cool food tours at Secret Food Tours.
- Attractions and museums. For 5% off museums and attractions, use discount code KIMOPREIS22 at Tiqets.
- Car rental. Compare your options at Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com.
- Flights. Compare all your options! Be sure to check Expedia, Kiwi and Trip.
- Guide books. I love the practical guides by Lonely Planet, for sale at Amazon.
- Package deals. Rather go on a catered trip? Check out your options at Expedia and CheapOair for example.
- SIM card. Beware of unexpectedly high phone and internet costs. Buy a local SIM card when you arrive, or arrange one online via Airalo. Use the code THISIS8469 for a discount.
- Train and bus. Buy your train tickets directly on the Korail site and intercity buses also directly via this site. Some trips can also be booked on
Klook or via12Go . For local transport in the city, you use a T-Money card.
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